Does everyone driving a Wrangler have a clunk when putting in gear? (automatic)

SOB

SOB

New member
18 JLUR. When putting in Reverse from either park or Drive, or putting in Drive from Park or Reverse, there is sometimes a clunk.
I have checked the play in diff by simply seeing how much the driveshaft will rotate by hand, and it is no more than it was when new.
It does not have U-joints, I have changed diff oil regularly because its wheeled hard, and also looked closely at ring gear and do not see any damage.
I see in some media, this could be normal? I do not know anyone else with Wranglers and this was my first. I have nothing to compare.
Any insight would be appreciated! Happy Holidays!!
 
SOB said:
18 JLUR. When putting in Reverse from either park or Drive, or putting in Drive from Park or Reverse, there is sometimes a clunk.
I have checked the play in diff by simply seeing how much the driveshaft will rotate by hand, and it is no more than it was when new.
It does not have U-joints, I have changed diff oil regularly because its wheeled hard, and also looked closely at ring gear and do not see any damage.
I see in some media, this could be normal? I do not know anyone else with Wranglers and this was my first. I have nothing to compare.
Any insight would be appreciated! Happy Holidays!!
Click to expand...
Check all the bolts on the driveshafts with a torque wrench, turning by hand does not apply enough force.

I'd also take a wrench to the suspension bolts, sway bar links and ball joint castle nuts; make sure to use a torque wrench at proper torque.
 
jeeeep said:
Check all the bolts on the driveshafts with a torque wrench, turning by hand does not apply enough force.

I'd also take a wrench to the suspension bolts, sway bar links and ball joint castle nuts; make sure to use a torque wrench at proper torque.
Click to expand...
All that is good.
 
No, but I appreciate you engaging. I know my jeep pretty well, and every month I check torques on everything and lube.
Could transfer case be making the noise? It is not consistent. I always wait until idle is down to operating idle before shifting. Sometimes I glide into N from P to D to avoid the 'clunk'. JLUR has 60k and I cannot really remember when clunk seemed more noticeable to me.
'Others' have said it's normal. However, I am not convinced and wanted some other opinions from real Wrangler owner's.

What I should probably do...since 'clunk' is relative, video it and post it instead of trying to make you guess the noise:cool:
 
SOB said:
No, but I appreciate you engaging. I know my jeep pretty well, and every month I check torques on everything and lube.
Could transfer case be making the noise? It is not consistent. I always wait until idle is down to operating idle before shifting. Sometimes I glide into N from P to D to avoid the 'clunk'. JLUR has 60k and I cannot really remember when clunk seemed more noticeable to me.
'Others' have said it's normal. However, I am not convinced and wanted some other opinions from real Wrangler owner's.

What I should probably do...since 'clunk' is relative, video it and post it instead of trying to make you guess the noise:cool:
Click to expand...
stock gears?
 
I have a 2012 JKUR and mine used to do it every time I put it in reverse especially before it idled down. Seemed to be getting worse over time. Fortunately, I bent the stock driveshaft about 6 months ago and replaced it with an Adams rear driveshaft. Clunk is completely gone now. The clunking was the internal splines in the OEM driveshaft.
I assume you have the OEM rear driveshaft since you said it doesn’t have u-joints, so IMO it is your driveshaft that is acting up.
 
bmkrinne said:
I have a 2012 JKUR and mine used to do it every time I put it in reverse especially before it idled down. Seemed to be getting worse over time. Fortunately, I bent the stock driveshaft about 6 months ago and replaced it with an Adams rear driveshaft. Clunk is completely gone now. The clunking was the internal splines in the OEM driveshaft.
I assume you have the OEM rear driveshaft since you said it doesn’t have u-joints, so IMO it is your driveshaft that is acting up.
Click to expand...
Thanks for feedback! I have suspected this for sometime, but I am undecided on which driveshaft to get.
EDIT: I am ordering the Tom Woods 1350 driveshaft.
 
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SOB said:
Thanks for feedback! I have suspected this for sometime, but I am undecided on which driveshaft to get.
EDIT: I am ordering the Tom Woods 1350 driveshaft.
Click to expand...
Good luck with that and his shitty u joints. I would buy some spares.
 
Just have a local driveshaft company make them for you. Specify Neapco double cardans with spicer ujoints. Cheaper, better and you’ll get a break when/if you need it worked on or rebalanced.
 
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