Does 3" lift and manual transmission need a front drive shaft?

[thechrisjones]

I got a 2015 JKU hard rock with manual transmission. Putting a EVO 3 inch lift and 37's (already have PSC fenders) do I need a front drive shaft? It's a DD and want to make sure I don't get any vibrations! Also if I do need to still get a front drive shaft do I need to change the type of connecters? I feel like I read somewhere to replace the joint connector???

 

[10frank9]

I got a 2015 JKU hard rock with manual transmission. Putting a EVO 3 inch lift and 37's (already have PSC fenders) do I need a front drive shaft? It's a DD and want to make sure I don't get any vibrations! Also if I do need to still get a front drive shaft do I need to change the type of connecters? I feel like I read somewhere to replace the joint connector???

You can get by with an exhaust spacer, but the long term solution is an aftermarket driveshaft that utilizes the double cardan joints, like the ones JE Reel sell. :thumb::yup:

 

[wayoflife]

I got a 2015 JKU hard rock with manual transmission. Putting a EVO 3 inch lift and 37's (already have PSC fenders) do I need a front drive shaft? It's a DD and want to make sure I don't get any vibrations! Also if I do need to still get a front drive shaft do I need to change the type of connecters? I feel like I read somewhere to replace the joint connector???

Unfortunately, ALL 2012's and up need a new front drive shaft eventually after installing a 2.5" lift or taller with shocks long enough to allow for bigger droop. This is due to the contact your slip shaft boot will make on the exhaust cross over AND the angle the shaft will sit. Exhaust spacers will address the slip shaft boot BUT your CV boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. You will want to get a new shaft WITH new yokes. I would NOT recommend getting one with flange adapters.

 

[Wethy]

Unfortunately, ALL 2012's and up need a new front drive shaft eventually after installing a 2.5" lift or taller with shocks long enough to allow for bigger droop. This is due to the contact your slip shaft boot will make on the exhaust cross over AND the angle the shaft will sit. Exhaust spacers will address the slip shaft boot BUT your CV boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. You will want to get a new shaft WITH new yokes. I would NOT recommend getting one with flange adapters.

I was looking at je reels the other day. Is this what you mean instead of the flange adapters?

http://reeldriveline.com/catalog/fr...p-wrangler-2012-24door-manual-trans-p-24.html

 

[JKbrick]

Unfortunately, ALL 2012's and up need a new front drive shaft eventually after installing a 2.5" lift or taller with shocks long enough to allow for bigger droop. This is due to the contact your slip shaft boot will make on the exhaust cross over AND the angle the shaft will sit. Exhaust spacers will address the slip shaft boot BUT your CV boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. You will want to get a new shaft WITH new yokes. I would NOT recommend getting one with flange adapters.

Do the flange adapters make the new driveshaft too short therefore having more angle or are they just weaker? Always glad for your advice and that I saw this since they looked way easier to install. Bummer

 

[Schweetjk]

Ive been wanting to install the old man emu 4in lift on my jeep, mines a 07 jkus with manual trans. The kit says it has everything needed but was not sure if I would have to install different drive shafts or anything else. I also bought a np241 rocktrac transfer case for my jeep and will this require new drive shafts? Any advice is much appreciated thank you.

 

[olram30]

Ive been wanting to install the old man emu 4in lift on my jeep, mines a 07 jkus with manual trans. The kit says it has everything needed but was not sure if I would have to install different drive shafts or anything else. I also bought a np241 rocktrac transfer case for my jeep and will this require new drive shafts? Any advice is much appreciated thank you.

On a 07 you should be fine for awhile, on the newer jeeps 12 and up the ds hits the exhaust.
But the angle on 4" of lift, your joint by the transfer case won't last forever

 

[Mitrig]

Ive been wanting to install the old man emu 4in lift on my jeep, mines a 07 jkus with manual trans. The kit says it has everything needed but was not sure if I would have to install different drive shafts or anything else. I also bought a np241 rocktrac transfer case for my jeep and will this require new drive shafts? Any advice is much appreciated thank you.

Was looking to install the ome kit aswell. I believe it comes with some sort of a drop bracket does it not? Idk if I recall properly but they say you don't need a new fdrive shaft since it keeps everything under the critical angles. I'd like to see how it works with stock arms. Are you doing the ome 4inch kit or the ome with rk arms like they sell

 

[olram30]

Was looking to install the ome kit aswell. I believe it comes with some sort of a drop bracket does it not? Idk if I recall properly but they say you don't need a new fdrive shaft since it keeps everything under the critical angles. I'd like to see how it works with stock arms. Are you doing the ome 4inch kit or the ome with rk arms like they sell

I think the ome 4" kit comes with these weird things you put on your axle side control arm brackets. You basically cut a portion or slot and the insert moves the control arm. Something weird like that, I wouldn't recommend going that route

 

[olram30]

It was bugging me, so i to look it up.
Ome uses this for caster correction. Not something I would do. If you decide to get lower control arms in the future, your kinda screwed because you already hacked up your brackets

 

[wayoflife]

I was looking at je reels the other day. Is this what you mean instead of the flange adapters?

http://reeldriveline.com/catalog/fr...p-wrangler-2012-24door-manual-trans-p-24.html

Yes, you want replacement yokes and not just adapters that will allow you to retain your factory flanges.

Do the flange adapters make the new driveshaft too short therefore having more angle or are they just weaker? Always glad for your advice and that I saw this since they looked way easier to install. Bummer

Yes, they cause the shaft to be too short and therefore make it prone to vibrations. I've tried going this route on my JK a couple of times early on and both times left me with a shaft that was hard to mitigate vibrations.

 

[wayoflife]

On a 07 you should be fine for awhile, on the newer jeeps 12 and up the ds hits the exhaust.
But the angle on 4" of lift, your joint by the transfer case won't last forever

This. You can make it work on an 07 for a while but the CV boot will fail sooner than later due to it being in a constant state of pinch.

It was bugging me, so i to look it up.
Ome uses this for caster correction. Not something I would do. If you decide to get lower control arms in the future, your kinda screwed because you already hacked up your brackets

Glorified cam bolts :icon_crazy:

 

[Wethy]

Yes, you want replacement yokes and not just adapters that will allow you to retain your factory flanges

Haha ok that's what i thought. I will be looking at Front DS's in the spring to go with the 2.5 lift i pick up this weekend so i wanted to make sure i was looking at the right style of DS but for now im going with spacers and will remove them when i put in the new shaft in

 

[Gadget]

Would this apply to a 2014 with a 3 inch lift and an automatic? I read on here that the dshaft was fine for less than 3.5.

 

[wayoflife]

Would this apply to a 2014 with a 3 inch lift and an automatic? I read on here that the dshaft was fine for less than 3.5.

Not sure who would have told you that but, that would be wrong.

On any 2012-up JK, you would want a new front drive shaft on any 2.5" coil spacer lift or taller IF you have new longer shocks that provide too much droop. Most 2.5" lifts yield more than 3" of actual lift and, while you can run exhaust spacers to help protect the slip shaft boot, the steep angle that your front drive shaft will sit in will cause the CV boot to be in a constant state of pinch and that WILL cause it to fail prematurely. IF you have a 2-door, you will want to replace the rear shaft as well with 3" of actual lift or more but, you will NEED adjustable rear upper control arms to install it.

 

[Gadget]

My mistake, I got that number from your response to me in the draglink flip kit thread. Does the fact that it is a 4 door make a difference?

 

[Schweetjk]

Was looking to install the ome kit aswell. I believe it comes with some sort of a drop bracket does it not? Idk if I recall properly but they say you don't need a new fdrive shaft since it keeps everything under the critical angles. I'd like to see how it works with stock arms. Are you doing the ome 4inch kit or the ome with rk arms like they sell

I did not know about the kit with the rk arms. Is that better than other kit? Where did you find that kit from?

 

[thechrisjones]

Anyone familiar with the coast brand drive shaft? Good product?

 

[wayoflife]

Anyone familiar with the coast brand drive shaft? Good product?

Yes. I have run their shafts on multiple Jeeps and they have all been a quality product and with Spicer u-joint standard. Just make sure to get one with replacement yokes and NOT the one with adapters that allow you to bolt it onto your factory flanges.

 

[Gadget]

Yes. I have run their shafts on multiple Jeeps and they have all been a quality product and with Spicer u-joint standard. Just make sure to get one with replacement yokes and NOT the one with adapters that allow you to bolt it onto your factory flanges.

Does the replacement yoke apply to all aftermarket driveshafts for the JK?