RESURECTIONJK
Hooked
Figured I’d just make a post about my experience with a DIY ram assist setup using my stock steering box.
Why would you do this? Well not everyone can or wants to spend $2k+ on a complete kit. If you can, great. But this at least gets you in the door with improved handling on and off road and, for less than $500. (I did this back in October 2020 so these prices might have changed) and the best part, you can add on to the kit as the budget allows until you have a full setup if you so desire.
I should note that I used my factory steering box that had over 200,000 miles so I chose to rebuild it at the same time but, if you are very careful when drilling and tapping (I’ll show a few shots of how that’s done also) then it’s perfectly fine to leave your steering box intact. I’ve done 4 of these now other than my own, all while leaving the box assembled and none of reported any issues.
I should also note that it’s messy and you’ll want a second pair of hands if you can. I knocked this out in 1 day, start to finish and only had to source the proper drill and tap (other than the actual parts. Also, some thread tape so they don’t leak at the box is crucial. (DO NOT PUT THREAD TAPE ON THE HOSE FITTINGS) only where the fittings thread into the box.
I bought the heat sink cooler from summit (saved me $50 over the PSC cooler that is literally the exact same part)
The tie rod clamp I’m going to list is ONLY if you have a 1-5/8 or 1.625 diameter tie rod clamp. You need to make sure to look up the correct clamp for your tie rod diameter. If you choose to weld the tabs to the tie rod then cool. Your choice there.
If you’re going to leave your box assembled, then make sure you use a magnet and some grease as you drill in order to keep debris from falling into the steering box. Here are a couple shots of that. I don’t recommend using compressed air as you may inadvertently blow shavings into the box. Just go slow and use grease and a magnet as you go.
Now here are some shots of how I drilled mine.
And a shot of the drill bit and Tap I used. You need to make sure you’re using a tap for the AN style fittings. They are a specific thread pitch. I got mine at fastenal for about $25 drill bit was another $30, don’t cheap out on these.
The fittings you need are as follows. Also, doesn’t hurt to but a few extra and also buy some male and female caps just in case you have to cap a line on the trail. I also recommend getting a few 45 degree fittings just to give you some options on hose routing (which is kind of a pain to get it perfect but we’ll get to that)
you’ll need :
2x 1/4 NPT male to -6AN male fittings (get an extra or two)
2x 6AN female to 6AN male 90degree fittings (get a couple extra)
2x 6AN female and male caps (again, get extra just in case)
I sourced the fittings from my local hose and rubber supplier. Spent about $20
Part number for the ram PSCSC2223K (I chose a 6.5x1.75 for the axle I’m running. This is also the one you’ll need if you’re running stock width axles regardless if they’re a 60 or 44.
Hose kit PSCHK2036
High pressure conversion hose kit PSCHK2091
Clamp for 1-5/8 (1.625) diameter tie rod PSCTRCL11B
I fully recommend having some hoses made and using the PSC hoses as a trail spare as the crimping on the PSC hoses is mediocre at best and they WILL leak. Also get some plastic hose guard to help keep them protected.
These are the fittings I used
Also, when you TAC weld your tabs in place on the axle, make sure your ram is as parallel to the tie rod as possible when you look at it from the front AND from on top.
I used some ATF +4 for my fluid because that’s what the system takes stock and I had some on hand. That being said, order up some SWEPCO or similar mineral based fluid if you can. Also, I am running my stock reservoir and my stock pump and yes, the pump is the original from 2014 with (now) over 230k on it. It’s getting tired and I’ll replace it this year with the upgraded pump from PSC but only because it’s already worn out and NOT because ram assist has caused any issues.
Follow your typical p/s bleeding procedure and enjoy 1 finger in 4LO while locked steering even on 40’s at 6psi.
Hope this helps. If any of you have questions or if I left something out I’m happy to answer them here in this post or in PM
Why would you do this? Well not everyone can or wants to spend $2k+ on a complete kit. If you can, great. But this at least gets you in the door with improved handling on and off road and, for less than $500. (I did this back in October 2020 so these prices might have changed) and the best part, you can add on to the kit as the budget allows until you have a full setup if you so desire.
I should note that I used my factory steering box that had over 200,000 miles so I chose to rebuild it at the same time but, if you are very careful when drilling and tapping (I’ll show a few shots of how that’s done also) then it’s perfectly fine to leave your steering box intact. I’ve done 4 of these now other than my own, all while leaving the box assembled and none of reported any issues.
I should also note that it’s messy and you’ll want a second pair of hands if you can. I knocked this out in 1 day, start to finish and only had to source the proper drill and tap (other than the actual parts. Also, some thread tape so they don’t leak at the box is crucial. (DO NOT PUT THREAD TAPE ON THE HOSE FITTINGS) only where the fittings thread into the box.
I bought the heat sink cooler from summit (saved me $50 over the PSC cooler that is literally the exact same part)
The tie rod clamp I’m going to list is ONLY if you have a 1-5/8 or 1.625 diameter tie rod clamp. You need to make sure to look up the correct clamp for your tie rod diameter. If you choose to weld the tabs to the tie rod then cool. Your choice there.
If you’re going to leave your box assembled, then make sure you use a magnet and some grease as you drill in order to keep debris from falling into the steering box. Here are a couple shots of that. I don’t recommend using compressed air as you may inadvertently blow shavings into the box. Just go slow and use grease and a magnet as you go.
Now here are some shots of how I drilled mine.
And a shot of the drill bit and Tap I used. You need to make sure you’re using a tap for the AN style fittings. They are a specific thread pitch. I got mine at fastenal for about $25 drill bit was another $30, don’t cheap out on these.
The fittings you need are as follows. Also, doesn’t hurt to but a few extra and also buy some male and female caps just in case you have to cap a line on the trail. I also recommend getting a few 45 degree fittings just to give you some options on hose routing (which is kind of a pain to get it perfect but we’ll get to that)
you’ll need :
2x 1/4 NPT male to -6AN male fittings (get an extra or two)
2x 6AN female to 6AN male 90degree fittings (get a couple extra)
2x 6AN female and male caps (again, get extra just in case)
I sourced the fittings from my local hose and rubber supplier. Spent about $20
Part number for the ram PSCSC2223K (I chose a 6.5x1.75 for the axle I’m running. This is also the one you’ll need if you’re running stock width axles regardless if they’re a 60 or 44.
Hose kit PSCHK2036
High pressure conversion hose kit PSCHK2091
Clamp for 1-5/8 (1.625) diameter tie rod PSCTRCL11B
I fully recommend having some hoses made and using the PSC hoses as a trail spare as the crimping on the PSC hoses is mediocre at best and they WILL leak. Also get some plastic hose guard to help keep them protected.
These are the fittings I used
Also, when you TAC weld your tabs in place on the axle, make sure your ram is as parallel to the tie rod as possible when you look at it from the front AND from on top.
I used some ATF +4 for my fluid because that’s what the system takes stock and I had some on hand. That being said, order up some SWEPCO or similar mineral based fluid if you can. Also, I am running my stock reservoir and my stock pump and yes, the pump is the original from 2014 with (now) over 230k on it. It’s getting tired and I’ll replace it this year with the upgraded pump from PSC but only because it’s already worn out and NOT because ram assist has caused any issues.
Follow your typical p/s bleeding procedure and enjoy 1 finger in 4LO while locked steering even on 40’s at 6psi.
Hope this helps. If any of you have questions or if I left something out I’m happy to answer them here in this post or in PM
