Dana 44 front chromoly axle shafts

JK's JK

JK's JK

Banned
Hi Guys,

I know this one has been hashed out but I have to ask.

So I am going to upgrade my gears 5.13 and at the same time I am going to upgrade my front dana 44 with chromoly axle shafts since I've read that the rear do not. Now my question is what is a good spline for a stock Rubicon Dana 44. Looks to be a 30 spline... Is there a good manufacture that makes a solid chromoly axle shafts? I've talked with 4 wheel parts and they promote G2 but the guy didn't seem to know much about the topic. I've also seen pictures of your guys rigs with a rubber boot at the end of the shaft in between the knuckle. Is that for a Dana 60 and what is that for?

Not to sound stupid but I want to do this the first time. I would just upgrade my front axle to something so much greater but I don't have the money to do that.

Thank you,
 
While a lot of guys will try to convince you that you need to get RCV shafts (the ones with the orange plunger looking domes on them), I am here to tell you that they are simply not necessary. If you're keeping your factory locker, you can only run a 30 spline shaft and any chromoly shaft will do the job well SO LONG AS you make sure to get them with full circle clips. This will help prevent the kind of u-joint failure that is commonly seen with factory shafts that only have c-clips. Take the extra $400 you would have spent on RCV's and use them to buy something you really need like a set of Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.
 
Thank you eddie.

This is the stuff that I want to hear. I'll look into the Dynomax ball joints. Are all chromoly shafts around the same? Is it like gears where there made from korea?

Thank you guys
 
JK's JK said:
Thank you eddie.

This is the stuff that I want to hear. I'll look into the Dynomax ball joints. Are all chromoly shafts around the same? Is it like gears where there made from korea?

Thank you guys
Click to expand...

Actually, the ball joints are made by "Dynatrac" - not "DynoMax". And, that was just one suggestion as to what you could do with $400. :D

Regarding the shafts, most are made in India, not Korea. RCV's and Superior Evolution shafts are made in the USA. While they should all get the job done, the difference you will see from one to another is in the type of clips they come with. You WANT full circle clips. You NEED to make sure that is what you are getting.
 
Spartan said:
So is this better then doing sleeves?
Click to expand...

Sleeves and axle shafts are two entirely different things that address entirely different issues. While Sleeves will help prevent an axle housing from breaking, the chance of that happening is in fact, very very low. With over 1 million JK's out there today, I have only seen and heard of about a dozen breaks. Having said that, axle shaft breaks is a very common problem especially if you run bigger tires and or lock up your front axle. And, truth be told, most of the breaks are caused by c-clips coming off the factory u-joints. Most aftermarket chromoly shafts come with full circle clips and this alone helps to prevent most shaft breaks.
 
So, if I'm understanding you right, your saying that it would be better to do shafts then sleeves if your running 35's or bigger?
Would it be a good idea to do both?
 
Spartan said:
So, if I'm understanding you right, your saying that it would be better to do shafts then sleeves if your running 35's or bigger?
Would it be a good idea to do both?
Click to expand...

Yes, you are understanding me right, I would definitely get new chromoly axle shafts with full circle clips WAY BEFORE I got sleeves. Truth be told, I have run sleeves in the past but don't even bother now. You could run both but, I see no need for it and, if you were to ever to want to upgrade to an ARB in the future, you would not be able to run the required 35 spline shaft with sleeves. Also, I should note that even with sleeves, you will see bending of your axle housing. The only thing they help with is prevent a housing break but again, that is pretty rare.
 
wayoflife said:
While a lot of guys will try to convince you that you need to get RCV shafts (the ones with the orange plunger looking domes on them), I am here to tell you that they are simply not necessary. If you're keeping your factory locker, you can only run a 30 spline shaft and any chromoly shaft will do the job well SO LONG AS you make sure to get them with full circle clips. This will help prevent the kind of u-joint failure that is commonly seen with factory shafts that only have c-clips. Take the extra $400 you would have spent on RCV's and use them to buy something you really need like a set of Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.
Click to expand...

So I started to read about ball joins and knuckles. So I came across this youtube video and its funny.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne5Mdr60c1Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CemQAq8Uro

This guy does give you some insign into how to remove ball joints but in the process its funny.

Which brings me to my next question about steering knuckles. I haven't thought about knuckles but after watching the video and doing a quick google search I did find these.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Reid-Racing-07-Jeep-JK-D30-44-HD-High-Steer-Knuckle-p-21830.html

I'm starting to think I am putting lip stick on a pig.........I should just invest into a dana 60 at this point!!!!!!

**Edit**

So I started to read about Dynatrac ball joints and they run about $625. Now do the ball joints break a lot faster when wheeling? They have some good benefits over the OEM for sure but are they needed when my OEM are intact?

**Edit**

Some information about the Dynatrac ball joints.
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techar...3_dynatrac_pro_steer_axle_ball_joint_upgrade/
 
Last edited:
Synergy ball joints are another option. Many run them and wheel them hard with no problems. I've had them for about 2 years on 37's with no issues. A Good value IMO
 
JK's JK said:
Which brings me to my next question about steering knuckles. I haven't thought about knuckles but after watching the video and doing a quick google search I did find these.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Reid-Racing-07-Jeep-JK-D30-44-HD-High-Steer-Knuckle-p-21830.html
Click to expand...

Installing orange colored knuckles will cost you about $600 and will only give your tie-rod only about an inch more of clearance. In other words, you will still hit it and risk bending it. For the money, I personally think it makes more sense to just get a new HD tie-rod. Being that you're still going to hit it, might as well spend your money preventing it from getting bent. Off all the tie-rods out there I have seen, the one made by Currie is the biggest, beefiest, strongest and easiest to use. It is also the most expensive but, I think you get what you pay for. The other alternatives work too.

I'm starting to think I am putting lip stick on a pig.........I should just invest into a dana 60 at this point!!!!!!
Click to expand...

At the very least, I would personally save up for a ProRock 44 rather than throw any more money than is needed into a factory 44. But, that's just me.

So I started to read about Dynatrac ball joints and they run about $625. Now do the ball joints break a lot faster when wheeling? They have some good benefits over the OEM for sure but are they needed when my OEM are intact?
Click to expand...

Factory ball joints use plastic components and tend to wear out sooner than later especially when running big tires with little back spacing. Most any of the HD aftermarket ball joints will get the job done for less than a set of ProSteers but, none of them are built quite as well or as beefy. Also, unlike other more affordable Chinese or India aftermarket HD ball joints made, the ProSteers have a different method of operation. OE and ALL other aftermarket ball joints have a bottom joint that pivots and a top joint that allows up and down motion but no pivot. The Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints have a bottom joint that allows pivot and, a top joint that goes up and down AND pivots. This helps keep the ball joints aligned with each other without binding. Bent end forgings or, axle C's are very common in JKs and, this specific feature of the ProSteer's is a crucial part to ball joint longevity. ProSteers may be pricey but, they will also be the last set of ball joints you will ever need to get.
 
wayoflife said:
At the very least, I would personally save up for a ProRock 44 rather than throw any more money than is needed into a factory 44. But, that's just me.
Click to expand...

Why is the ProRock 44 better then the factory 44?

Why stay with 44 insted of going to 60?
 
Spartan said:
Why is the ProRock 44 better then the factory 44?
Click to expand...

The factory 44 is just a Dana 30 housing with a Dana 44 differential and shafts - literally. The tubes are the same 2.5” x .25” wall tubing and the end forgings are exactly the same. Among other things, a ProRock 44 Unlimited comes with heavy duty 3.0” X .5” (1/2”) wall DOM tubing, super beefy end forgings, built in +6° of caster and a profiled proprietary differential to allow for maximum ground clearance. There really is no comparison between the two and you simply cannot throw enough money at a factory 44 to make it even close to a ProRock 44.

Why stay with 44 insted of going to 60?
Click to expand...

Cost. A ProRock 60 is really expensive and unless you're planning on playing really hard with a set of 37's or bigger, it's more than what most people need.
 
wayoflife said:
The factory 44 is just a Dana 30 housing with a Dana 44 differential and shafts - literally. The tubes are the same 2.5” x .25” wall tubing and the end forgings are exactly the same. Among other things, a ProRock 44 Unlimited comes with heavy duty 3.0” X .5” (1/2”) wall DOM tubing, super beefy end forgings, built in +6° of caster and a profiled proprietary differential to allow for maximum ground clearance. There really is no comparison between the two and you simply cannot throw enough money at a factory 44 to make it even close to a ProRock 44.



Cost. A ProRock 60 is really expensive and unless you're planning on playing really hard with a set of 37's or bigger, it's more than what most people need.
Click to expand...

I was looking at Prorock dana 44 and I found that I can purchase the housing for a little over 2k. For the sheer cost of placing new hardware and ARB's, can you re-use the factory hardware?
 
JK's JK said:
I was looking at Prorock dana 44 and I found that I can purchase the housing for a little over 2k. For the sheer cost of placing new hardware and ARB's, can you re-use the factory hardware?
Click to expand...

I am using all my stock parts from my Dana 44 in my Dynatrac Prorock 44.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
JK's JK said:
I was looking at Prorock dana 44 and I found that I can purchase the housing for a little over 2k. For the sheer cost of placing new hardware and ARB's, can you re-use the factory hardware?
Click to expand...

Paisano said:
I am using all my stock parts from my Dana 44 in my Dynatrac Prorock 44.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

What Paisano said, if you want, you can order up a PR44 to be used with factory components. It will save you a lot.
 
No you won't need Gussets and I believe the Dynatrac Diff Cover is an additional $130.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom