Currie anti rock with Evo double throwdown
- Thread starter Gecko13
- Start date
I'm sorry but you are a moron. A sway bar is a torsion bar as in, it's essentially a straight spring. In fact, there are a lot of vehicles that use torsion bars AS springs for their suspension. And, just like a spring, the more force you apply to it, the more resistance it has. There is no "properly" setting it up. If proper setup is all that is needed, there would be no need to disconnect a factory sway bar.
The Currie Antirock is nice and guys like Mel at EVO like them for what they do, provide a decent amount of stability on pavement and off road and without having do anything. It's a compromise, a jack of all trades and for that, it's great. Sure, I suppose you can default it all the way to one side (tight) or the other (soft) and it will perform better at those points but then the opposite end will be compromised. That is far from what I would consider to be ideal.
I realize this is all way over your head but try to follow me for just a second here. When I say "driveline bind", I'm referring to the U-Joint on the drive shaft physically binding up and having difficulty turning because of the steep angle that it's sitting in. Even with 12" coilovers and bypass shocks on a DTD, I still have bind at a full droop. It was full on locking up with the 14"s we used to have or at least, without straps. You can say you have all the droop in the world but until or unless you can rack up your Jeep, measure the droop and then prove to me that your drivelines still turn freely, I'm just gonna have to keep on thinking you're an idiot. You can only droop so much before it becomes a problem and new control arm joints or fancy sway bars will NOT change this.
The Currie Antirock is nice and guys like Mel at EVO like them for what they do, provide a decent amount of stability on pavement and off road and without having do anything. It's a compromise, a jack of all trades and for that, it's great. Sure, I suppose you can default it all the way to one side (tight) or the other (soft) and it will perform better at those points but then the opposite end will be compromised. That is far from what I would consider to be ideal.
I realize this is all way over your head but try to follow me for just a second here. When I say "driveline bind", I'm referring to the U-Joint on the drive shaft physically binding up and having difficulty turning because of the steep angle that it's sitting in. Even with 12" coilovers and bypass shocks on a DTD, I still have bind at a full droop. It was full on locking up with the 14"s we used to have or at least, without straps. You can say you have all the droop in the world but until or unless you can rack up your Jeep, measure the droop and then prove to me that your drivelines still turn freely, I'm just gonna have to keep on thinking you're an idiot. You can only droop so much before it becomes a problem and new control arm joints or fancy sway bars will NOT change this.
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Here's a pic from SEMA 2015 and in it, you will see 2 JK's that are identically built. Both are running EVO DTD's, both are running EVO long arms, both are running ProRock axles, both are even running the same bumpers and armor. Hell, both are even white. One is flexing out on a very tall stand and the other is just parked there. Now, I should note, BOTH JK's were supposed to be flexed out on stands. The reason why the other isn't is because it almost flopped trying to get up there. How do I know, because I was driving both of them. Once up on top, we determined that the other JK was just way too unstable and dangerous and so we brought it back down. Why was it so unstable? Because it had Antirocks front and rear resisting flex!
Had I not seen it with my own eyes and experienced this apples to apples test myself, I may not have believed it myself.
Had I not seen it with my own eyes and experienced this apples to apples test myself, I may not have believed it myself.
CalSgt
Hooked
I'm going to go ahead and hijack because I've been thinking of painting my 1/4 pounder white and that picture just sold me on it...Here's a pic from SEMA 2015 and in it, you will see 2 JK's that are identically built. Both are running EVO DTD's, both are running EVO long arms, both are running ProRock axles, both are even running the same bumpers and armor. Hell, both are even white. One is flexing out on a very tall stand and the other is just parked there. Now, I should note, BOTH JK's were supposed to be flexed out on stands. The reason why the other isn't is because it almost flopped trying to get up there. How do I know, because I was driving both of them. Once up on top, we determined that the other JK was just way too unstable and dangerous and so we brought it back down. Why was it so unstable? Because it had Antirocks front and rear resisting flex!
Had I not seen it with my own eyes and experienced this apples to apples test myself, I may not have believed it myself.