Clarification on sleeves vs PR44

MericaMade said:
Yeah, I am pondering how to get this all done in one shot. Could I put the PR44 on with no internals and drive it to the shop? This way I would just bring in the whole stock front axle and have everything swapped over with new gears and get the rear done at the same time?

I was also thinking about putting the jeep on jacks and just take all 3 axles down and having it done that way as well.
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You could drive it there with an empty housing. Just make sure shop has the correct yoke to fit your driveshaft. And take the axles with you so the shop can put them in afterwards to prevent fluid loss.
 
WJCO said:
You could drive it there with an empty housing. Just make sure shop has the correct yoke to fit your driveshaft. And take the axles with you so the shop can put them in afterwards to prevent fluid loss.
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Awesome, the shop is only a few miles down the road and I really did not want to pull both axles out if I didn't have to.

OK, as far as the yoke I am running the stock drive shaft, do I need to purchase a aftermarket one to run the PR44?
 
Thank you guys, as always I appreciate you helping me out saving me money....well saving me from wasting money at least lol.
 
Yeah, I'm looking into that to. So for a little bit more I looked at the D60 option but is that over kill?

Most of the driving is high-speed desert stuff, but I do like to play on the Rocks, climb, and crawl as well.

Is the strength difference between the pro Rock 44 and Dana 60 about the same strength difference from the stock 44 and the Pro Rock 44?
 
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Not really overkill, but what will you do when you want to upgrade the rear? Semi-float 60 to match the front?

For that kind of money you should go with full float axles. If that where you're headed, might as well do it now.
 
MericaMade said:
Yeah, I'm looking into that to. So for a little bit more I looked at the D60 option but is that over kill?

Most of the driving is high-speed desert stuff, but I do like to play on the Rocks, climb, and crawl as well.

Is the strength difference between the pro Rock 44 and Dana 60 about the same strength difference from the stock 44 and the Pro Rock 44?
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No. The 60 is a much bigger axle. Also has a bigger ring gear so you can safely go deeper with the gearing. Of course, you'd have to upgrade both axles at that point and I'd go full-float. But then you'd need new wheels... and down the rabbit hole you go. 🤣🤣

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
BaddestCross said:
No. The 60 is a much bigger axle. Also has a bigger ring gear so you can safely go deeper with the gearing. Of course, you'd have to upgrade both axles at that point and I'd go full-float. But then you'd need new wheels... and down the rabbit hole you go. [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Yeah I'm good I'll pass on the 60s LOL. I had to ask since im looking to upgrade. I appreciate the help.
 
So I'm running EVO 3 inch with Kings. I currently have the draglink flip and king steering stabilizer loop on each side.

So to make sure I need to order the rubicon housing with draglink relocate? Will my loop to loop stabilizer work?
 
MericaMade said:
So I'm running EVO 3 inch with Kings. I currently have the draglink flip and king steering stabilizer loop on each side.

So to make sure I need to order the rubicon housing with draglink relocate? Will my loop to loop stabilizer work?
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If you get a PR44 housing you’ll reuse your stock knuckles and tie rod. You’ll have to figure out how to mount the stabilizer. There’s a mount you can get welded on or just bolt it into the track bar mount. I personally don’t run a stabilizer and don’t see a need to.


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I have been meaning to get the EVO lower shocks relocates, should I still do that with the PR44?
 
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