CJ-5 Project Old School

Body paint color, just for fun.

  • Mojito Green, JL color

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Chestnut Brown Metallic, Classic 70's

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Medium Blue Metallic, Late 70's early 80's

    Votes: 1 50.0%

  • Leave it alone, keep the Patina!

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • Total voters
    2
  • Poll closed .
Boots!

The old shifter boots are obviously old and somewhat poor condition based purely on age. I wanted to get something a little nicer and since I put on the 1 inch body lift, the levers don't line up with the holes as good as they used to.

I moved the cover plate back so it worked enough to function, but I'm not happy with it. Where the front of the plate meets the body, there's almost no overlap and I'd really like it to be right.
So I'm going to get a blank cover plate and cut the holes in the proper location. Also this will allow me to change the hole from round to square for the transmission.

The new trans boot is a Lokar with a billet trim ring. The transfer case boot is a custom order with a liner sewn in. I can get a 16 gauge trim ring for the transfer case boot as mine is bent up from over tightening (plus now it doesn't match). I have found a few machining companies locally that should be able to mill a billet ring to match the trans ring. It would be wider and different dimensions of course, but done in a similar style. If it ends up being too cost prohibitive, then I will order the steel ring which comes in black powder coat for $25.00 plus shipping.

After whatever I do to the body to finish it, I will at least carpet the front section and it should have a very clean look. This is another one of those detail things I am stockpiling as I go that will make the Jeep stand out some.

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Hubs

Wasn't going to get these until I started to clean up and paint the axle housings. However, I got a hell of a deal and couldn't pass them up.
I've been keeping an eye on prices and ended up having these delivered to my door for a total cost of $140.00. They retail for around $250.00 and the lowest I normally see them for is 189.00.
Even then there is often shipping at that price. Really happy that I have my first Warn upgrade for this Jeep. The next one will be the VR series 8000S winch with synthetic line. Maybe Christmas for that one, if I start asking the wife now... :hmm:

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AZ Explorer said:
Wasn't going to get these until I started to clean up and paint the axle housings. However, I got a hell of a deal and couldn't pass them up.
I've been keeping an eye on prices and ended up having these delivered to my door for a total cost of $140.00. They retail for around $250.00 and the lowest I normally see them for is 189.00.
Even then there is often shipping at that price. Really happy that I have my first Warn upgrade for this Jeep. The next one will be the VR series 8000S winch with synthetic line. Maybe Christmas for that one, if I start asking the wife now... :hmm:

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Those look great


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What?!?!

This is a new thing for me. I bought my new wheels 2 weeks ago and after a week and a half the drivers rear tire was flat. I'm thinking well, maybe it didn't seat right. Or, since I did steel valve stems, there could have been a problem with the gaskets sealing. So this morning I took the tire/wheel back down to Discount and they put it in the dunk tank to see where the problem was.
Unbelievably to our surprise there is a small (invisible to the eye) crack in the wheel right on the flat surface. A small manufacturers defect no one could have known was there.
My sales guy got all the info and will be reordering the wheel on Monday as the mfgr. is closed today. Hopefully, it won't take too long but I am expecting up to 6 weeks if they have to make another one.
I have never seen a new wheel leak there before. The Discount guys said it is really rare but it does happen from time to time.

Leak is right about here...
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I did get some new part to tinker with. A set each of front and rear of Currie greasable shackles.
M.O.R.E front spring hangers because they're better and the body shop was convinced the stock ones are bent and causing a slight axle shift to the drivers side. Will be getting the rears to match soon.
New rear emblems for later because they were on sale.
Finally, I had a gift card I needed to use and got a pair of lube-locker gaskets for my axles. I'll use these later after a bit of restoration and new, yet to be ordered, diff covers.

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Crappy worn out emblems

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The shackles and front hangers went on really easy as expected. They look great and for the record, Currie’s claim that these shackles do not work with Pro Comp springs is untrue. It’s an exact fit with the bushings going into the spring eyes with the same tension as the hangers whether it be the new ones or the stock ones at the rear of the Jeep. I could see the claim of the Rubicon Express ones possibly not fitting or any other spring with the military wrap on the spring ends, but mine were good. I was concerned but ordered them anyway figuring I could always send them back if I had to.
 

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The last part on my most recent order finally arrived. A heavy duty steering box brace which moves the box forward 1.25 inches. When I get the new frame, the company said they would mount the front spring brackets forward by that same measurement. The shackles stay mounted in the same place and will lean a bit more forward at the bottom, but I have the wiggle room as now they sit slightly negative and should end up where I want them to be.
The CJ factory set up has the wheels set too far to the rear and causes rubbing and turning issues when larger tires are added. (At least the sizes I'm running).
I was going to do a heavy duty bracket anyhow so getting this style was a no brainer. Luckily, the rear tire sits pretty centered in the wells, only had the common issue with the front.

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Well, it took about 7 weeks but I finally got my warranty wheel replaced. Nice to have all four tires holding air now.

While I was waiting I decided to sticker up a little. I added the Jeep fender logo in blue like it would have been from the factory but was missing on both sides. I've seen a lot of JK's with the cowl flags and always liked the look so I did that as well along with the Arizona state/flag combo.

The little round 1941 Jeep heritage sticker was just something to put where the fender stripe decal was replaced with painters tape. That looked bad up close and there was no way to replace just that section and it would have looked weird anyhow with a new section of decal in front of weathered portion on the tub.

Finally, I had a sticker made with the name of the Jeep above the rear turn signal. I thought the whole thing would cooler this way until I can do something about the body.

It really needs almost the whole drivers side of the tub replaced to be straight, and there is a very small rust hole in the cowl on the drivers side below the windshield hinge at the seam. That whole section has a pretty good amount of surface rusted on the inside of the panel especially at the seams. I am thinking of doing the POR 15 thing to keep the body from getting worse. After I get the mechanicals worked out and drive it for awhile, I can decide what direction to go.

I can imagine it will run around $2800 to $4000 to redo the tub. That's the cost of a repli-tub but mine would be mostly original. The hood can be repaired, windshield is good and fenders would be fiberglass even if I stick with the steel tub. At least this way, I can by on the road and trails faster. What I need at minimum is the new frame, steering column and rear CV driveshaft, and the rear end needs 1 piece axleshafts. If it comes down to it, I would rather do a Fiberglass tub over a new steel tub. But if I can fix the original tub to newish condition for a reasonable cost, I'll do that. But again, that will be later after it's driveable.

The engine needs a rear main seal for sure but I would like a rebuild for reliability and to fix all leaks. I got a quote from a local company that specializes in AMC engines and they will pick up the engine from my house and bring it back done for a little under $4000. That would include doing a performance rebuild, cam, pistons, better oiling system new Edelbrock intake, HEI distributor, factory blue paint etc. anyway, lots of good stuff. Probably good for around 250 HP and big torque numbers. Saving in a seperate account to do that hopefully some time next year.

I'm going to be 49 in July and my goal is to be able to drive this thing during my 50th birthday year. I don't want to turn 51 and have it still just sitting.
When I did the budget and figured what I have in it and what I need to spend (adding 20% for incidentals) I will be well under the price of a side by side which I was looking at a while back before I bought the CJ. I had looked at the Can-Am maverick X3 2 door. I think I can beat that price even after doing the body maybe by $3000 to $4000. In the end I'll have something far cooler.

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