Bump steer issue

CalSgt said:
I would do some DIY alignment before I slotted the brackets... Maybe they won't need it, but if they do you will know which direction to start cutting.

Adjustable arms seem like a more solid way of aligning a straight axle, I would assume a slotted bracket would be far more vulnerable to getting bumped out of whack
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^^^This^^^

Plus a DIY alignment is just as good as one at a shop. They can't do anything you can't in your garage with a tape measure and some patience. Maybe someone could post up Eddie's write up for the DIY alignment.
 
So my Rubicon axles came from a 2015 and my old axle was a 2011 Dana 30.

This picture is how my Rubicon LCA mount is. On the D30 the that slot you can see was open to make it adjustable. I have Camber in it.

I adjusted my Toe today and made a quick drive around the block and it seemed better, but when I drove it to work. Not better at all. It's wonders bad and not stable at all.
 

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run2jeepn said:
So my Rubicon axles came from a 2015 and my old axle was a 2011 Dana 30.

This picture is how my Rubicon LCA mount is. On the D30 the that slot you can see was open to make it adjustable. I have Camber in it.

I adjusted my Toe today and made a quick drive around the block and it seemed better, but when I drove it to work. Not better at all. It's wonders bad and not stable at all.
Click to expand...
Camber would be adjustable at the ball joints, if at all. That slot being cut out would give you a little bit of caster adjustment, caster being off will make it wonder. I'm still of the opinion if you need caster adjustment that adjustable arms are the way to go if you are going to wheel it. If its not going off road cutting slots is a much more affordable option. I'm no jeep alignment specialist thats just my opinion on slotting the brackets...

Here is a link to Eddie's alignment tutorial:
https://wayalife.com/threads/basic-do-it-yourself-jeep-jk-wrangler-front-end-alignment.3861/

ETA: You will need to recheck your toe in if you make any other changes to the caster or camber.
 
CalSgt said:
Camber would be adjustable at the ball joints, if at all. That slot being cut out would give you a little bit of caster adjustment, caster being off will make it wonder. I'm still of the opinion if you need caster adjustment that adjustable arms are the way to go if you are going to wheel it. If its not going off road cutting slots is a much more affordable option. I'm no jeep alignment specialist thats just my opinion on slotting the brackets...

Here is a link to Eddie's alignment tutorial:
https://wayalife.com/threads/basic-do-it-yourself-jeep-jk-wrangler-front-end-alignment.3861/

ETA: You will need to recheck your toe in if you make any other changes to the caster or camber.
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Ya I meant Caster not Camber.

I measured my Wheelbase on each side. My Drivers side is 1/2in Longer.

Passenger 117-1/4in
Drivers 117-3/4in
 
How long have you had the Fox steering stabilizer on? Did your problems start before or after the steering stabilizer install?
 
Bear_JKU said:
How long have you had the Fox steering stabilizer on? Did your problems start before or after the steering stabilizer install?
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It was on the Jeep when I bought it. I've had the Jeep since Oct...

Problems only started after swapping axles..
 
Well my Alignment fixed everything. Drives like it should now. Besides my JKS Swaybar bushings are worn out. My Toe was way off. Chewed the crap out of my front tires in the short amount of time.
 
jesse3638 said:
^^^This^^^

Plus a DIY alignment is just as good as one at a shop. They can't do anything you can't in your garage with a tape measure and some patience. Maybe someone could post up Eddie's write up for the DIY alignment.
Click to expand...
My dad always did his own alignments in the garage. He had a self-made alignment rig to make it accurate and easy. There was never a problem due to this.

Of course he was known to lap the valves on the daily driver over the weekend as well. 😀
 
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