Broken tie rod

Most aftermarket Tie rods are around the same thickness as the 350-400$ Currie TR. I'm thinking about ordering it myself

That 700 one is super beefy!
 
I've just been curious to what everyone runs. You don't really here much about tie rod recommendations. From what I've been looking at they are all close to the same price except the super beefy Currie one. Which is understandable because of its size. From that point on, it seems as if they are all the same. And then like I said earlier, I had one person on here recommend the ruff stuff but I haven't heard anything else about them. So I'm reluctant to try them out even if they do offer one for a pretty good price. Hopefully we can get some more folks to chime in on what they upgraded to. I know I've read about the factory being pretty weak and I found out myself hitting it against some rocks. Plus it's pretty exposed where it's located


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I run the Ruffstuff, so far with good luck. Up till now I have been on 315s without Hydro assist. Just recently upgraded to 37s and PSC hydro assist so this summer will be the test. If you are a good welder the kit is about $125, or buying one pre made is like $50 more. It is 1.5"x.25 DOM and GM 1 ton ends. I feel that is pretty beefy, definitely not the best out there but for the price I was willing to try it out.


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QuicksilverJK said:
I run the Ruffstuff, so far with good luck. Up till now I have been on 315s without Hydro assist. Just recently upgraded to 37s and PSC hydro assist so this summer will be the test. If you are a good welder the kit is about $125, or buying one pre made is like $50 more. It is 1.5"x.25 DOM and GM 1 ton ends. I feel that is pretty beefy, definitely not the best out there but for the price I was willing to try it out.


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That was one of the things that drew me to it when someone recommended them, was the 1 ton ends and the price. I might try them out to. I still have a little time to figure out what I'm gonna go with. As guess no matter what happens it can't be worse than stock



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Eezybreezy08 said:
That was one of the things that drew me to it when someone recommended them, was the 1 ton ends and the price. I might try them out to. I still have a little time to figure out what I'm gonna go with. As guess no matter what happens it can't be worse than stock



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Check out Barnes. They have the same kit, 1.5"x.25 DOM with gm 1 ton offset ends, and for close to the same price as ruffstuff you get a drag link built the same way. And for those of us with dl flips you can get the drag link with a right hand tre for the knuckle end that will keep it flipped


Build Thread - "Jenny"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?41740-The-build-of-Jenny&highlight=build jenny
 
ClaytonW_CZ said:
I am a software developer, not a Jeep mechanic... But after offroading for almost 25 years I am able to find most problems. But how can you recognize a weld which can brake soon? O.K., maybe I could use X-Ray, but I do not have one available for my Jeep inspections :)
But I would be happy if you could explain to me how I can predict which welds may crack soon.
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I guess you could look for a fine line of rust like a crack. What I would question would be where the threads go into the tie rod it seems it should have a jamb nut or a sleeve clamp to hold it in there correctly. Your picture looks like they ground it down to fit in there then welded it? Seems pretty shitty, maybe I'm not looking at it correctly


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RockinAZJK said:
Check out Barnes. They have the same kit, 1.5"x.25 DOM with gm 1 ton offset ends, and for close to the same price as ruffstuff you get a drag link built the same way. And for those of us with dl flips you can get the drag link with a right hand tre for the knuckle end that will keep it flipped


Build Thread - "Jenny"
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?41740-The-build-of-Jenny&highlight=build jenny
Click to expand...

Thanks for the different options. I don't mind researching into everything


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I built one with the ruffstuff kit and installed it recently. No issues as of yet and much more stout than stock. The taper on the TRE's is slightly different so it's best to ream the knuckle but many people just install it the way it is. The boots could be improved and I'll be ordering some from Energy suspension as soon as I get some motivation to measure for what I need. I have the reamer and if anyone wants to use it they can borrow. They aren't cheap to buy and most would only use it once.
IMG_0567.jpg


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