Broken axles

[Tackerdown]

I like that. Good diagram. I'm Ferring to the actual shaft housing diameter . the back is fatter than the front so to speak .

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[dhughes]

That's what I was under the impression of and the diff. Cover is the same and locks front and rear but the shaft housing in the rear is bigger than the front. I am curious why they would do that. I just don't understand why they would make one if the tubes bigger than the other.

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Yes you are correct the 44 front do have smaller diameter axle tubes.

 

[Tackerdown]

Yes you are correct the 44 front do have smaller diameter axle tubes.

thanks I was thinking I had some Fed up set up someone ordered

 

[Silver Bullet]

Fastest way to snap a shaft is bouncing the tires. The wheel goes from spinning to a stop an the axle keeps going. I've seen it on d44's front and rear. If you are dealing with mud or no traction it isn't as much as an issue. Spinning is okay until you suddenly get traction. Then you hear a pop and its over.

Best way to bend or break a housing is to get the tires off the ground and drop it again. As said, big tires will increase the risk.

If you are lucky you will just snap a U joint. Much easier to repair and cheaper. It's also easy to carry a spare and it can be swapped on the trail.

RCV makes axle shafts that eliminate the U-Joints all together, and come with an unconditional free replacement warranty. Pricy, but well worth it....especially if you blow a U-Joint and stub axle while on the Rubicon Trail like I did.

 

[Tackerdown]

RCV makes axle shafts that eliminate the U-Joints all together, and come with an unconditional free replacement warranty. Pricy, but well worth it....especially if you blow a U-Joint and stub axle while on the Rubicon Trail like I did.

curious as to what would be cheaper and easier to carry along with you and easier to repair on the trail ?

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[Philip *AZ*]

One of my friends had them installed on his Rubi today. As mentioned, they are pricey but if you break it they replace it..


If you can't walk my beat unarmed, maybe you should consider becoming a police officer.

 

[wayoflife]

Those 2 breaks wouldn't happen to be the same person would it?

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LOL!! I guess I have personally seen 3 then - 2 on the same Jeep

I hate hijacking but can someone tell me why the front axle housing has a smaller diameter than the back. They are on a 2011 rubi . I've tried to find something on this but struck out. They both have the 44 diff. Cover
Signed
Confused.

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The front Dana 44 is a Dana 44 only in terms of its differential. The tubes, end forgings and knuckles are all the same as a Dana 30.

 

[wayoflife]

RCV makes axle shafts that eliminate the U-Joints all together, and come with an unconditional free replacement warranty. Pricy, but well worth it....especially if you blow a U-Joint and stub axle while on the Rubicon Trail like I did.

The only u-joints I've ever seen fail are those on factory shafts. Of course, this is a common problem with factory shafts being that they use c-clips instead of full circle clips but of course, nobody ever seems to mention that. I've run RCV's and yes, they are nice but very pricey and far from being the only solution to blowing u-joints. As mentioned, a standard set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips WILL help prevent u-joint failures as well and will do it for about $400 less than RCV's. Just some food for thought.

As mentioned, they are pricey but if you break it they replace it..

A lot of good that'll do when you're broken down on the trail. And yes, I have seen RCV's break - not at the joint but deep in the shaft where extracting the remaining piece was virtually impossible.

curious as to what would be cheaper and easier to carry along with you and easier to repair on the trail ?

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If you're not breaking a joint, you'll definitely break something else like a shaft or worse, a ring and pinion. Hmmm, I wonder what I would prefer fixing?

 

[Tackerdown]

If you're not breaking a joint, you'll definitely break something else like a shaft or worse, a ring and pinion. Hmmm, I wonder what I would prefer fixing?

I remember reading one of your conversation before on this. That was my polite way of digging out his opinion on that.
Oh and thanks for the other explanation

 

[Philip *AZ*]

A lot of good that'll do when you're broken down on the trail. And yes, I have seen RCV's break - not at the joint but deep in the shaft where extracting the remaining piece was virtually impossible?

No different than breaking a "regular" or"chromoly" shaft on the trail. I was just pointing out the fact that if you break the RCV its going to be replaced. You may have to pay shipping, but its better than paying full price for a new shaft.
Everything has a weak link, you could have chromoly axles and blow an R&P. you are going to be just as screwed on the trail. I think you missed the point I was shooting for.


If you can't walk my beat unarmed, maybe you should consider becoming a police officer.

 

[wayoflife]

No different than breaking a "regular" or"chromoly" shaft on the trail.

Not exactly. I would be the first to admit that CV joints are really really strong and definitely stronger than a u-joint. What's different about a regular chromoly shaft is that it won't fail for the same reasons a factory shaft will fail BUT, if it were to fail, it would most likely fail at the u-joint and NOT the shaft or anywhere else. This is a pretty easy fix. A CV joint like what RCV's have will force a break to occur at the shaft or ring and pinion and that is not an easy fix. See pic below - see anything missing?

I was just pointing out the fact that if you break the RCV its going to be replaced. You may have to pay shipping, but its better than paying full price for a new shaft.

Most basic chromoly shafts offer a 10 year warranty and a few even offer a lifetime warranty just like RCV. They too will replace a shaft if you were to break one and, while you may have to pay for shipping on them as well, you will still be about $400 ahead. That's all I was trying to point out.

Everything has a weak link, you could have chromoly axles and blow an R&P. you are going to be just as screwed on the trail. I think you missed the point I was shooting for.

You're right, everything has a weak link and I would be the first to say that on a standard chromoly shaft with full circle clips, a break would still most likely be at the u-joint. To me, that's a good thing. Of course, if it were to break there, it would NOT be for the same reason that so many people break their factory shafts which only have c-clips. RCV's on the other hand eliminate the joint from being a weak link and therefore, guarantee that it'll be moved elsewhere as is shown in the image above.

Please note, I'm not trying to discourage anyone from liking RCV's, I'm just pointing out facts and backing them up. Again, they are great shafts, but so are basic chromoly shafts with full circle clips.

 

[Philip *AZ*]

I understand fully. I was simply stating that the shaft would be replaced free of charge no questions asked. The 10 yr waranty is just as nice, but isnt it a limited 10yr? Like if you were gettin down and broke it? Not discouraged about anything. I enjoy debating with you Eddie, its always an educated debate. So no hurt feelings and no angry thoughts towards you either.. Punk..lol


If you can't walk my beat unarmed, maybe you should consider becoming a police officer.

 

[Moochie]

Pretty sure my Ten Factory shafts are covered for ten years, unconditionally. I haven't had to use the warranty yet.

 

[wayoflife]

I understand fully. I was simply stating that the shaft would be replaced free of charge no questions asked. The 10 yr waranty is just as nice, but isnt it a limited 10yr? Like if you were gettin down and broke it?

First off, I haven't seen or heard of too many JK chromo shaft with full circle clips break in general. That alone should speak volumes about how much of a difference full circle clips make. Having said that, I can't say that I've seen or heard of too many instances in the past or on rear shafts (bent flanges are common) where anyone has had an issues getting a basic chromoly shaft replaced ESPECIALLY if they were playing hard and flat out broke it. Could you just imagine the kind of beating the company would take on the internet if they did? What RCV did with their marketing was really smart - they essentially put into writing what everyone else was already doing and really, good for them. Clearly, it's helping them to get people to kick down an extra $400 on a set of axle shafts that will move a break from the joint to the shaft or worse, the ring and pinion. Lucky for them, they don't have to cover anything but their shafts.

Not discouraged about anything. I enjoy debating with you Eddie, its always an educated debate. So no hurt feelings and no angry thoughts towards you either.. Punk..lol

Well, I'd like to think about it more in terms of us just having a conversation. In person and over beers, I can assure you that's all it would be :beer: :yup:

 

[wayoflife]

Pretty sure my Ten Factory shafts are covered for ten years, unconditionally. I haven't had to use the warranty yet.

Yup, they sure are and I have seen them stand by it 100% even on shafts that were clearly abused. 10 years may not be a lifetime but, I'm not sure the "lifetime" part is worth the extra $400. But, that's just me.

 

[Philip *AZ*]

Pretty sure my Ten Factory shafts are covered for ten years, unconditionally. I haven't had to use the warranty yet.

This is good to know. I have been looking at chromoly for the front and rear, but looking at Alloy USA. I will check back into Ten Factory as well since my favorite vendor carries tge full line. Thanks for that feed back Moochie!


If you can't walk my beat unarmed, maybe you should consider becoming a police officer.

 

[Tcdawg]

The only u-joints I've ever seen fail are those on factory shafts. Of course, this is a common problem with factory shafts being that they use c-clips instead of full circle clips but of course, nobody ever seems to mention that. I've run RCV's and yes, they are nice but very pricey and far from being the only solution to blowing u-joints. As mentioned, a standard set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips WILL help prevent u-joint failures as well and will do it for about $400 less

If you can't make the jump to chromo shafts w the full clips you can tack weld the u joint caps to the ears. This helps prevent them from coming out if a half clip is lost.

 

[bl17z90]

Those 2 breaks wouldn't happen to be the same person would it?

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Pretty sure it is

 

[Philip *AZ*]

I found an old write-up by Eddie talking about C clips v Full Circle Clips. Makes sense now to what he has been talkin about. I watched a couple vids on R&P install and locker install. I understand the locker eliminates most of the components a regular carrier has due to them basically being inside the locker itself. On the regular install (no locker), I noticed once the shaft was installed there is a retaining C clip that goes inside the housing, I think over the axle shaft. That is what I was confusing with the C v Full Circle.


If you can't walk my beat unarmed, maybe you should consider becoming a police officer.

 

[wayoflife]

A Dana 35 uses c-clips inside the diff to secure rear axle shafts in place. Dana 44 and Dana 30's (what JK's use) do not and, as you have found, are not the kind of c-clip I was referring to - just the u-joints of a front shaft. :yup: