Brakes

GP NOIR

GP NOIR

Hooked
2 door 2012 Wrangler Rubicon w/manual trans

Who do we like for braided stainless steel brake lines? My brake lines are aging and I want to replace them.

I'm having trouble with the front right brake dragging enough that the Jeep bogs when starting from a stop and the brake runs a consistent 100 - 200 degrees (measured with a laser thermometer) hotter than the other three brakes. So far, I've replaced the front calipers, rotors and pads with the larger 13" JL brakes and replaced the master cylinder with a larger bore master cylinder. I've bled the brakes manually and with a scanner. The pedal is still soft and keeps going to the floor. Any ideas?

PS- I'm looking for a Mopar ABS module, but they are hard to find.
 
Have you checked and or greased your caliper bolts? Could be they're just dry and sticking. Back in the day, that was a normal step in brake maintenance.

Otherwise, I always thought the factory JK brakes with OE pads were plenty to get the job done up to 37" tires.
 
Have you check unit bearings? I had this happen when a unit bearing was going out. Needed 4wd just to go up a gravel road with a slight incline. The bearing gets toast and fries the sensor area because there is no grease.
 
wayoflife said:
Have you checked and or greased your caliper bolts? Could be they're just dry and sticking. Back in the day, that was a normal step in brake maintenance.

Otherwise, I always thought the factory JK brakes with OE pads were plenty to get the job done up to 37" tires.
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I did not. Installed the new parts as they came. I forgot to mention the reason I replaced the brake parts in the first place is because the right front brake started dragging during a trip to Moab. Replaced the caliper with a standard replacement. It worked for a short time then went back to dragging. Had my Jeep towed home and have been struggling to get it figured out since.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Have you check unit bearings? I had this happen when a unit bearing was going out. Needed 4wd just to go up a gravel road with a slight incline. The bearing gets toast and fries the sensor area because there is no grease.
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Replaced both unit bearings and sensors. One unit bearing has a small amount of play and both tone rings were packed with red sand. Replaced both sets of ball joints. One set of ball joints were worn and I was starting to get the pre Death Wobble wobbles.
 
The proble/m may lie in leaaky or damaged brake lines.Con sider replacing them with new high-quality stainless steel braided hoses.Also make sure the brake caliper is _working properly and is not stuck;)
 
Oltersen said:
The proble/m may lie in leaaky or damaged brake lines.Con sider replacing them with new high-quality stainless steel braided hoses.Also make sure the brake caliper is _working properly and is not stuck;)
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I’m planning to replace all four brake lines with braided stainless steel. That’s why I’ve asked who makes good lines in my first post.

Calipers on both sides are remans with less than ten miles on them. This is the second replacement caliper on the right side and the right side still drags. I do plan on checking the caliper guide pins for lubrication and freedom of movement as Eddie suggested.

I’m also going to get a new ABS module as soon as I can afford it. They ain’t cheap! Mine is cracked from being dropped.
 
GP NOIR said:
I’m planning to replace all four brake lines with braided stainless steel. That’s why I’ve asked who makes good lines in my first post.

Calipers on both sides are remans with less than ten miles on them. This is the second replacement caliper on the right side and the right side still drags. I do plan on checking the caliper guide pins for lubrication and freedom of movement as Eddie suggested.

I’m also going to get a new ABS module as soon as I can afford it. They ain’t cheap! Mine is cracked from being dropped.
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Local pic-a-part yards may have ABS module?
 
JT@623 said:
Local pic-a-part yards may have ABS module?
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I tried a junkyard module and had to return it. The hydraulic half leaked.

My thinking is if I have to go to the stealership and pay to have the module programed with the Jeep VIN, I want to start with a new module. However, if that's what I have to do to get my Jeep back on the road, I'll do it. Not being able to drive my Jeep is crazy making!
 
Bought and installed an NOS MOPAR ABS module, new SS braided brake lines and a MOPAR brake pump. MOPAR parts weren't cheap but no more pulling. The Jeep stops straighter than ever before. Just have to chase the last bit of air out of the lines to firm up the pedal.

Upgraded the brakes to 13" JT rotors & calipers and a larger bore master cylinder. The master cylinder bore has a larger diameter than the standard JK MC and smaller than the fabled J8 MC. I can feel a difference even with the softer pedal. Will be heading out to Trail Hero at Sand Hollow for the 4th, 5th & 6th of October
 
GP NOIR said:
Bought and installed an NOS MOPAR ABS module, new SS braided brake lines and a MOPAR brake pump. MOPAR parts weren't cheap but no more pulling. The Jeep stops straighter than ever before. Just have to chase the last bit of air out of the lines to firm up the pedal.
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Try doing an ABS bleed. You need a scanner but essentially the ABS module will pulsate and purge the remaining air out of the lines.
 
If your Wrangler spends much time off-road, especially in sand or mud, inspect your parking brakes for wear. The dirt that gets in there is abrasive and wears down the shoes.

I tore down my rear brakes to adjust the parking brake and found this. This was the good side. The other side was worn to the point the brake shoe material flaked off
IMG_9467.jpeg
IMG_9466.jpeg

Installed new shoes & hardware
IMG_9468.jpeg

I also replaced the bent lower control arms. Easier to do with the tires removed
IMG_9475.jpeg
The control arms are eBay cheapies to let me drive my Jeep until I save enough money for something better.
 
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