Black beast CJ5 restoration and writeup

bigcale said:
Definitely looks like you have the narrow rear springs. There should not be a gap like that between the U bolts and the side of the leaf spring.
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I was thinking the same thing. I'm going to have to wait a couple weeks and get some new perches. If I had the money for a double cardagen and the novak conversation kit I'd flip the perchs to put the springs over and ditch the body lift.

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The jeep needs a new carb. Only problem is that I don't know much about carbs. It has a weber 32/36 DGAV automatic choke in it. Should we just replace it with the same carb or switch to something different. We are not rebuilding it.

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Replaced my carb once on my 85 CJ-7 it was a pain to get running correctly so I swapped a 4.0 head and full EFI intake from an XJ.
 
bigcale said:
Replaced my carb once on my 85 CJ-7 it was a pain to get running correctly so I swapped a 4.0 head and full EFI intake from an XJ.
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I gotcha, I'm pretty confident in tuning it. That's not a bad idea down the road though.

Black Beast Mecanic
 
Out with the old and in with the new. We got the driveshaft rebuild today. As luck would have it, it was actually twisted which is why it was unbalanced. The shop had it fixed by the time we finished our wings down the street haha. Tonight we got the rear axle pulled and started to build new spring perchs out of some 3x3x1/4 inch square tubing I had laying around. I'd all goes according to plan, it'll be back in and driving by tomorrow afternoon.

Black Beast Mecanic
 
Actually Omix-ada has a new tub for about $3,800, totally bolt on. Not cheap, but I think when you figure an axle is coming in at $5,000 these days, you realize it's a bargain. I'd do it if I was going to keep it. Might be able to find a used tub if you are just doing a trail rig and more concerned about rust than dents.
 
Any cj owners have trouble with vapor lock? Have an 87 4.2 straight 6 with a Weber 38/38 carb. I re-ran the fuel lines so they weren't going right over the motor which I think helped but it still jets really jerky and loses power on warm afternoons going down the highway.


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I dont have any more ideas on how to get it running better. I thought i mite share how i did my rear driveline. I used the front drive shaft from am xj. Make sure you get the yoke to it will fit your dana 300. Had the driveshaft shop mate it with mu stock cj shaft to make this.

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BlackBeastDriver said:
Any cj owners have trouble with vapor lock? Have an 87 4.2 straight 6 with a Weber 38/38 carb. I re-ran the fuel lines so they weren't going right over the motor which I think helped but it still jets really jerky and loses power on warm afternoons going down the highway.


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Click to expand...

I had vapor lock on my old CJ5
Doing what you did (rerouted fuel lines) helps but I still had to:
•add electric fuel pump
•Electronic ignition
•Good fuel

Kind of a blast method but it worked for me. I've also wondered about the fuel. My old CJ7 and flatfender work better with high quality gasoline (no ethanol)

Good luck


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BlackBeastDriver said:
Any cj owners have trouble with vapor lock? Have an 87 4.2 straight 6 with a Weber 38/38 carb. I re-ran the fuel lines so they weren't going right over the motor which I think helped but it still jets really jerky and loses power on warm afternoons going down the highway.


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Click to expand...
I replaced the tank, got rid of the old QuadraJet and replaced it with Edelbrocks 1406 and new feed lines.

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