For most people, a full float isn't necessary and will cost more but even at $7300, that's still cheaper than a ProRock 60 front axle.
Already have the ProRock 44 front axle installed and yes, I am just using the factory knuckles and unit bearings.
Bent rear axle options
- Thread starter g4willy
- Start date
For most people, a full float isn't necessary and will cost more but even at $7300, that's still cheaper than a ProRock 60 front axle.
Already have the ProRock 44 front axle installed and yes, I am just using the factory knuckles and unit bearings.
MTG
Caught the Bug
They don't make a 5 to 8-lug adapter do they? :cheesy:
bl17z90
New member
Ah ok so one of these days If I upgrade to a pro rock 44 up front and pro rock 60 rear I would need wheels that have a 5x5.5 lug pattern and the pro rock 44 front would require 5x5 to 5x5.5 1.5" spacers to match the rear pro rock 60. I think I got it. Do the Pro Rock 44's have manual locking hubs? Is it even an option? They are good for if you didn't want your axle shafts to spin with the wheel, correct?
Yeah, what Ray said but, no thanks :crazyeyes:
You can get aftermarket manual locking hubs and yes, having them would keep just the wheels spinning when unlocked but, I personally wouldn't recommend getting them. They are really expensive and I just don't think they offer enough benefits to justify the cost.
bl17z90
New member
Fair enough. I don't wheel that incredibly hard and only plan on axle upgrades to account for tire size upgrades in the future so I'll probably steer clear. Thanks.
Does there exist a rear Pro Rock 60 that isn't full float? Is it just the front that is offered without locking hubs or are the rears offered without them also?
A standard ProRock 60 comes with semi-float shafts. You would have to upgrade it to a full-float if that's what you wanted. Only the front is offered with locking hubs.
bl17z90
New member
Like you say full float and locking hubs just seems like overkill so those are 2 options that I will skip.
ramin
Caught the Bug
uhporkchop
New member
prorock v dana 44
I have been on the Dynatrac website and read the write ups of the advantages of the pro rock 44 over stock, however besides the castor adjustments and heavier brackets how would a built dana 44 compare. By built this is what was on the vehicle when I purchased it.
2008 JKUR
EVO mag 44 sleeves
EVO LCA skids
EVO C gussets
Riddler diff cover
HD track bar brackets
Just curious to get the POV from the forum. Are guys running 37" tires bending/breaking housing after installing sleeves/gussets/etc?
I have been on the Dynatrac website and read the write ups of the advantages of the pro rock 44 over stock, however besides the castor adjustments and heavier brackets how would a built dana 44 compare. By built this is what was on the vehicle when I purchased it.
2008 JKUR
EVO mag 44 sleeves
EVO LCA skids
EVO C gussets
Riddler diff cover
HD track bar brackets
Just curious to get the POV from the forum. Are guys running 37" tires bending/breaking housing after installing sleeves/gussets/etc?
Teraflex
After looking at the checkbook I had to go with the Teraflex CRD60. Was really hoping to get the $$ for the Dynatrac but not going to happen :sigh:. I don't wheel this that hard and hoping it will last for awhile. Still have a pile of other things I "need" for our Summer trip to Moab.
After looking at the checkbook I had to go with the Teraflex CRD60. Was really hoping to get the $$ for the Dynatrac but not going to happen :sigh:. I don't wheel this that hard and hoping it will last for awhile. Still have a pile of other things I "need" for our Summer trip to Moab.
uhporkchop
New member
Curious to know what your setup was that you bent your Dana 44. Tire size, gearing, vehicle armor, driving conditions(jumping, bounding, pre running, crawling) etc? I know you probably don't know the specific event when the axle bent, but did the vehicle see a lot of hard hit etc that would be conducive of bending an axle?
Long story short is that I bought this as a Salvage rebuild and knew there would be some issues. Got a great deal on it knowing I would need to spend some $$ on hidden issues. I got the pictures and talked to the purchaser who bought the wrecked unit and fixed it. He indicated (and from the pictures) that it had a roll to the passenger side with primarily body damage. Guessing that is when the axle was bent. I have had it since June running 35's with stock suspension/drive train and flat fenders. My use has been some rock crawling, mud, water crossings, some minor faster driving on forest service roads and I am fairly light on the skinny pedal. Nothing that I would consider hard enough to bend a D44.