Bent cage what to do?

wiseguy127 said:
So only answer is a complete new roll cage?
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You still haven't said what you want to do with it. Toy only, or daily driver?

For a purpose built wheeler straighten what you can and get a roll cage in it. For a daily driver with the ability to put doors back on and seal its going to a professional to get new pillars or a tub swap.
 
Dailey drive no but to drive around town and do grocery shopping. But then go on the trails. All ready got the pr44 and rebuilt d44 all with arb lockers and 5.13 gears. So if I don't take it off roading then I should kick my sell if the ass.
 
Then swap the windshield. Do what you can with the pillars or cut them out completely and replace with tubing. And toss a cage in and call it a day.


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I'd take the payout from your insurance and get a full cage put in instead of keeping the factory cage. Going to a full-cage is something I now wish I'd done a long time ago. They're expensive, and about 10hrs of labor, but worth it.

I flopped my Jeep back in 2011 and it was a huge pain to get a good estimate from shops. Three that I was referred to turned me away and said they weren't interested in the work. I learned that most body shops don't want to waste their time on an estimate when they know they won't be doing all the work. USAA eventually sent their own "specialty estimator" to my home and estimated the repair at $12K. I took that money, paid a shop about $4k in body and paint work, spent a few thousand on upgrades and pocketed the rest.
 
The only way I’d feel safe in that is with a FULL replacement cage, and even then, it would depend how the rest of the Jeep looks. Like Ddays said, good luck. Not impossible but you’re going to put a lot of money and time into it.
 
BananaJeep said:
The only way I’d feel safe in that is with a FULL replacement cage, and even then, it would depend how the rest of the Jeep looks. Like Ddays said, good luck. Not impossible but you’re going to put a lot of money and time into it.
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Rest of the jeep doesn't look that bad. All ready replaced hood and fender and looking for a few more little things. Then going with Evo Rockskin b piller, boat sliders and rear comer guard. Not going to me a car show queen but I can look a lot better.
 
Ok So gonna go with a genright cage and steel-it paint before it goes to get welded in. Not sure to go with black or grey. Witch should make it easier to finish paining after they weld it. I would hate to know how much it would cost to power coat it.
 
wiseguy127 said:
Ok So gonna go with a genright cage and steel-it paint before it goes to get welded in. Not sure to go with black or grey. Witch should make it easier to finish paining after they weld it. I would hate to know how much it would cost to power coat it.
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Steel It looks like an interesting product. Have you used it before?


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wiseguy127 said:
Ok So gonna go with a genright cage and steel-it paint before it goes to get welded in. Not sure to go with black or grey. Witch should make it easier to finish paining after they weld it. I would hate to know how much it would cost to power coat it.
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The cage can be removed after it’s fully assembled and then you can just rattle can it with rustoleum or something. Steel-it is expensive man! Powder coat would by far be ideal though.


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I have never used steerl-it but I'm not gonna ask the guys welding it to paint it. Steel it seems like the way to go to make everyone else job east. Plus heard ot touches up great.
 
wiseguy127 said:
As much as I love to do a b-piller chop that eliminates this junker from winter driving in Chicago.
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Tub swap. Find a tub with a sport bar still attached. If you still want to drive it like a normal car and not have the snow and rain inside with you and you have space to work on it this is going to be the cheapest solution. Whatever you do don’t reuse the vent sport bars that are already in it. Good luck.


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wiseguy127 said:
Ok So gonna go with a genright cage and steel-it paint before it goes to get welded in. Not sure to go with black or grey. Witch should make it easier to finish paining after they weld it. I would hate to know how much it would cost to power coat it.
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Steel-It is great, but powder coating my entire cage only cost me $180.
 
Powder coating is cheaper than most think. Well at least where I go... if you plan on welding onto your cage in the future go with steel it, otherwise powder. I painted my sport cage with rattle can and it turned out awesome, but I also wet sanded in between coats and went crazy with it. From now on I will use powder coating.


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TrainWreck618 said:
Powder coating is cheaper than most think. Well at least where I go... if you plan on welding onto your cage in the future go with steel it, otherwise powder. I painted my sport cage with rattle can and it turned out awesome, but I also wet sanded in between coats and went crazy with it. From now on I will use powder coating.


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Yea I was quoted about 500 just for the cage in black. But I also found out that the genright cage is bolted in and not completely welded. So I can have them weld it all together then bring it home and paint it then.
 
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