Devallee
New member
With only 2.5" of lift you should have no problem with the driveshaft. Only a 2 door would have that problem :thumb:
Bds suspension?
- Thread starter Sithwindu
- Start date
Devallee
New member
I've had my 3" at full flex hundreds of times still running the stock driveshaft. I don't think its necessary unless you're running a long arm setup with lots of droop. I'd play with what you have until you need it and save the money for something else but that's just me. However if you're uncomfortable with what you have then by all means go for it but that's just my 2 cents
bl17z90
New member
Get a set of 1 inch pucks and that'll solve the squatting issue
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JKWrang
New member
The guy from BDS emailed me back saying the shocks on the 3" lift limit the droop so the shaft doesn't come into contact and the exhaust is cleares with an includes spacer kit.
Any opinions on this?
We have one guy running this and says its good. Its a pretty complete kit so I mean if its good its VERY tempting
Sent from my phone while I should probably be getting work done
Any opinions on this?
We have one guy running this and says its good. Its a pretty complete kit so I mean if its good its VERY tempting
Sent from my phone while I should probably be getting work done
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What it means is that the shocks provided are way shorter than they should be just to prevent contact with your exhaust cross over. In other words, IF you were to run an appropriately sized shock, you would have much better articulation and your Jeep would perform much better on the trail. So, now you've got to ask yourself what's more important - a "taller look" or a "better performing" Jeep? Also, the standard shocks that all companies use including BDS are just basic old school hydros and they will perform worse than your factory shocks. If it were me, I would save up a bit more, get your front drive shaft addressed and get a set of good monotube shocks that will give you the flex you really want. You don't need to break the bank, a set of Rancho 7000MT's are very affordable as are Bilstein 5100's.
JKWrang
New member
So basically... they use a 3" coil with 2.5" shocks?? Wouldn't that cause unnecessary tension? Seems to me like that would be counter productive....:idontknow:
More like a 2" longer than stock or less and no, it would not cause unnecessary tension. It just would prevent your axle from drooping too much.
JKWrang
New member
:thinking::idontknow:
Please excuse my ignorance and constant questions... but I don't exactly understand. If I have a '3" lift' I would assume the coil would be 3" taller than stock... yes?
So I guess I just don't understand how the coil can be so much longer and the shock can be shorter and there be no issues.
So, if that's the case then... you're saying the 3" longer coil will basically suspend the body higher at normal operations and the axle will be limited in travel by the shock so REALISTICALLY I would only have 2 or so inches of lift in terms of articulation and off-road performance?
Which essentially means it's just a hack to fit 35s? If I went with the BDS kit I would probably get their Fox 2.0 shocks because and if I went with the TF 2.5" coil lift i'd certainly go with the Bilstein 5100s. I do appreciate you taking the time to break it down barney style for me. I'm relatively retarded when it comes to this technical Jeep stuff since it's a lot more complicated than replacing OEM with OEM. :idontknow:
You can assume that but, a lot of companies do this now to help sell their kits as not needing anything more to make them work. It's a much tougher sell to say that you have an easy to install "budget boost" that requires a new $450" front drive shaft or exhaust modification. For driving around town, your shocks will work just fine as they will still have plenty of up travel. Of course, on the trail, you will have limited droop. This isn't a problem per se but, your off road performance will be sub-par.
If you're lucky. Maybe less.
Well, in all fairness, you can fit 35's and your Jeep will drive just fine, you'll just get what you paid for when you're on the trail.
JKWrang
New member
Hmmm... is it reasonable to say that a kit like that could be upgraded to a 3" long arm kit in the future with a new driveshaft?
Or does that usually become excessive in terms of overall cost?
If that's the case ill just save my money and ride with team low and slow... forever
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Or does that usually become excessive in terms of overall cost?
If that's the case ill just save my money and ride with team low and slow... forever
Sent from my phone while I should probably be getting work done
bl17z90
New member
I am not sure if you understood what Eddie meant so here goes.
You get a 3 inch kit and that kit SHOULD provide 3 inches of lift. The shocks that BDS provides are shorter than most 3 inch shock kits. Reason why is because your axle can only drop as much as the shocks will allow. They are the limiting factor.
So they sell the shorter shocks that way your axle cant droop enough that your drive shaft hits your exhaust.
If you buy longer more appropriate shocks it will allow your axle to droop more thus making it easier for you to keep all 4 tires on the groud at once. The tradeoff is now you will need a new narrower drive shaft or an exhaust spacer (not sure exactly how they work since I have a 2010)
Make sense?
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You get a 3 inch kit and that kit SHOULD provide 3 inches of lift. The shocks that BDS provides are shorter than most 3 inch shock kits. Reason why is because your axle can only drop as much as the shocks will allow. They are the limiting factor.
So they sell the shorter shocks that way your axle cant droop enough that your drive shaft hits your exhaust.
If you buy longer more appropriate shocks it will allow your axle to droop more thus making it easier for you to keep all 4 tires on the groud at once. The tradeoff is now you will need a new narrower drive shaft or an exhaust spacer (not sure exactly how they work since I have a 2010)
Make sense?
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What he said only, exhaust spacers or even a y-pipe conversion WILL NOT address the significant angle your output shaft CV joint will see. This will cause it to fail prematurely. Only an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft will address all the concerns associated with a good 3" or taller lift on a 2012-up.
bl17z90
New member
Maybe you can a swer this question Eddie.
A lot of kits out there come with springs shocks track bars sway links blah blah and rear lowers but not rear uppers. Based on everything I have read it would seam rear uppers are much more important than rear lowers. So my question is do you know why so few kits come with these (without having to buy an all 8 arm kit?
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A lot of kits out there come with springs shocks track bars sway links blah blah and rear lowers but not rear uppers. Based on everything I have read it would seam rear uppers are much more important than rear lowers. So my question is do you know why so few kits come with these (without having to buy an all 8 arm kit?
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Probably because you can actually see lower arms and people like seeing what they just paid for. As you have pointed out, all 8 arms would be ideal but, if you're on a budget, adjustable front lowers and rear upper will get the job done.
TheDuff
New member
I'm gonna just throw this observation out there ive seen quite a few rigs with budget boosts in action and I honestly can say u get just as much flex as a coil lift (considering all things equal, like using stock arms). Plus u dont need a drag link flip or control arms with just a BB. They really are the best bang for your buck.
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ive seen quite a few rigs with budget boosts in action and I honestly can say u get just as much flex as a coil lift (considering all things equal, like using stock arms). Plus u dont need a drag link flip or control arms with just a BB. They really are the best bang for your buck.Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
JKWrang
New member
No I understood. My question may have been worded badly but...
I wanted to know if these kits that get sold with shorter shocks can serve as the base line for future upgrades... I.e. later on getting a new 1350 and then longer shocks.... which I would guess cannot be longer than the coil... and adjustable arms, etc etc.
And really that's why a kit like this is appealing versus a BB... if that's the potential and it can serve as a base (upgradable to its similar 3" kit from the same company) than I'd rather make THAT investment than a BB I'd be ditching later. Otherwise I would just stick with the BB and be perfectly content because like Duff said they are bad ass.
While I realize these kits aren't designed to be trail monsters like their more expensive 3" kits... if its reasonable to lift this way in stages I wouldn't be opposed to that. Does that make more sense?
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Veetz
New member
Wrangler...what you need to understand that buying and replacing stuff can get out of hand....financially...do some homework find a rig you like and find out how it works for you with what you want to do with your rig in the future.....keep asking questions ....builds are expensive....I've learned my lessons
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JKWrang
New member
I know, that's what I want to avoid... getting into a lift I regret. Sorry about the undending questions.
Edit: everytime I am confident I have it down I read something else that makes me rethink everything lol
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