Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

Stupid question, but does the 1/16 to 1/8 toe in change with 40” tires. My brain keeps telling me because the tires are larger that the measurement should change to accommodate. I’m I over thinking it?


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Samuelh3 said:
Stupid question, but does the 1/16 to 1/8 toe in change with 40” tires. My brain keeps telling me because the tires are larger that the measurement should change to accommodate. I’m I over thinking it?
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You're over thinking it.
 
Samuelh3 said:
Stupid question, but does the 1/16 to 1/8 toe in change with 40” tires. My brain keeps telling me because the tires are larger that the measurement should change to accommodate. I’m I over thinking it?


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Set your toe in and watch the tire wear, if the outside edge of the tread seems to be scuffing off (feathering) you may have excessive toe in. Too little toe in may cause wear on the inside edge of the tire, bump steer, wondering, and could induce wobble. If it drives nice and isn't scuffing the outer edge of the front tires you're good.
 
fiend said:
It is difficult to understand from your post what your issue is and what questions you are asking.


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Sure. Wasn’t sure if people were still looking at this thread.

Questions were about drive shafts and which one I should get when I need to because mine spray grease it looks like from the boot and not sure when I get another one if I do stock or Adams 1310 or 1350. Not sure why I should get.

Other questions were about alignment stuff. I read the thread here about doing it yourself at home. I had questions on 4.5 being ideal caster and mine is at 3.5 that’s where I posted pic of alignment from shop. That I need front uppers to get to 4.5 and I can’t get more then 3.5 without front uppers? I have front lowers.

Also going to get 2.0 mopar springs in the spring/summer and that’s when I would get front uppers and questions were I would wait on front drive shaft stuff u til I get those mopar springs and front uppers so I know where I am at for size? of driveshaft to get.

I have 2.5 metalcloack springs and have a 1.0 front spacer.
 
thegreatwhitenorth said:
Sure. Wasn’t sure if people were still looking at this thread.

Questions were about drive shafts and which one I should get when I need to because mine spray grease it looks like from the boot and not sure when I get another one if I do stock or Adams 1310 or 1350. Not sure why I should get.

Other questions were about alignment stuff. I read the thread here about doing it yourself at home. I had questions on 4.5 being ideal caster and mine is at 3.5 that’s where I posted pic of alignment from shop. That I need front uppers to get to 4.5 and I can’t get more then 3.5 without front uppers? I have front lowers.

Also going to get 2.0 mopar springs in the spring/summer and that’s when I would get front uppers and questions were I would wait on front drive shaft stuff u til I get those mopar springs and front uppers so I know where I am at for size? of driveshaft to get.

I have 2.5 metalcloack springs and have a 1.0 front spacer.
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Replace your drive shaft now if the boot is broken and go with a 1350 but not a Adams IMO. If you are going 3 inches or higher its recommend to get a aftermarket drive shaft.
 
MericaMade said:
Replace your drive shaft now if the boot is broken and go with a 1350 but not a Adams IMO. If you are going 3 inches or higher its recommend to get a aftermarket drive shaft.
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I donot have a local place that does drive shafts like these guys were saying so what brands should I get. Does 3.5 including the 1.0 spacer count as 3 or higher since the springs are 2.5

I am getting 2.0 mopar springs so I would be at 3.0 if spacer counts in this.

Also donot think boot is broken just that grease sprayed out a little at some point so want to know what I am doing beforehand.
 
thegreatwhitenorth said:
Sure. Wasn’t sure if people were still looking at this thread.

Questions were about drive shafts and which one I should get when I need to because mine spray grease it looks like from the boot and not sure when I get another one if I do stock or Adams 1310 or 1350. Not sure why I should get.

Other questions were about alignment stuff. I read the thread here about doing it yourself at home. I had questions on 4.5 being ideal caster and mine is at 3.5 that’s where I posted pic of alignment from shop. That I need front uppers to get to 4.5 and I can’t get more then 3.5 without front uppers? I have front lowers.

Also going to get 2.0 mopar springs in the spring/summer and that’s when I would get front uppers and questions were I would wait on front drive shaft stuff u til I get those mopar springs and front uppers so I know where I am at for size? of driveshaft to get.

I have 2.5 metalcloack springs and have a 1.0 front spacer.
Click to expand...

I would get a 1350 over a 1310. It’s stronger and only a bit more money. I haven’t heard great things about Adams. Maybe check out other options like JE Reel, or see if there’s a local driveline shop.

For caster, stock is 4.2 degrees. When you start lifting, you run into possible driveline vibrations if you keep the stock caster and have an aftermarket double cardan driveshaft. So it’s a balance between getting as close to stock caster as possible while avoiding vibrations. You can adjust caster with adjustable lower arms, adjustable upper arms, or both. Some people instead use control arm drop brackets. You say you have “front lowers.” I assume you mean adjustable arms. I’d try working with those before buying adjustable uppers.


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fiend said:
I would get a 1350 over a 1310. It’s stronger and only a bit more money. I haven’t heard great things about Adams. Maybe check out other options like JE Reel, or see if there’s a local driveline shop.

For caster, stock is 4.2 degrees. When you start lifting, you run into possible driveline vibrations if you keep the stock caster and have an aftermarket double cardan driveshaft. So it’s a balance between getting as close to stock caster as possible while avoiding vibrations. You can adjust caster with adjustable lower arms, adjustable upper arms, or both. Some people instead use control arm drop brackets. You say you have “front lowers.” I assume you mean adjustable arms. I’d try working with those before buying adjustable uppers.


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Do not of any local place, I’ll ask around again on that. Cool with 1350, I read elsewhere it’s ok to have the 1310 that is weaker then the 1350 so the weakest link is the 1310 being the easiest to fix? Does that make sense?

For caster read here and elsewhere the 4.5/1.5 being ideal. Guess I could do 4.2 first. I do have front lowers and think it’s maxed out so that’s as high as I can get caster, to the 3.5 that alignment page I posted says. That why I guess I need front uppers so I can get caster to 4.2 or 4.5
 
Clutch said:
What’s wrong with Adams?


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Nothing is wrong with their driveshafts. If I remember correctly there were some issues with one of Eddies builds last year that had nothing to do with Adams and he needed to have the shafts rebuilt. There was something that stirred up from that but I can’t remember what. Adams makes fine shafts, I prefer JE Reel for an online shop because they have helped me out a few times in the past and do great work. Preferably you could find a local shop to build them as that would be cheaper. There is a good shop near us by the way if you ever need yours rebuilt.


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fiend said:
I would get a 1350 over a 1310. It’s stronger and only a bit more money. I haven’t heard great things about Adams. Maybe check out other options like JE Reel, or see if there’s a local driveline shop.

For caster, stock is 4.2 degrees. When you start lifting, you run into possible driveline vibrations if you keep the stock caster and have an aftermarket double cardan driveshaft. So it’s a balance between getting as close to stock caster as possible while avoiding vibrations. You can adjust caster with adjustable lower arms, adjustable upper arms, or both. Some people instead use control arm drop brackets. You say you have “front lowers.” I assume you mean adjustable arms. I’d try working with those before buying adjustable uppers.


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MericaMade said:
Replace your drive shaft now if the boot is broken and go with a 1350 but not a Adams IMO. If you are going 3 inches or higher its recommend to get a aftermarket drive shaft.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Are the je reel drive shafts 1350 non greasable?
 
TrainWreck618 said:
Nothing is wrong with their driveshafts. If I remember correctly there were some issues with one of Eddies builds last year that had nothing to do with Adams and he needed to have the shafts rebuilt. There was something that stirred up from that but I can’t remember what. Adams makes fine shafts, I prefer JE Reel for an online shop because they have helped me out a few times in the past and do great work. Preferably you could find a local shop to build them as that would be cheaper. There is a good shop near us by the way if you ever need yours rebuilt.


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The Adams shaft he had was out of balance from them. Both front and rear.


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OverlanderJK said:
The Adams shaft he had was out of balance from them. Both front and rear.


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For some reason I remember them being off the shelf shafts that were not customized for his specific lift/setup. In no way am I defending Adams, but I thought there was another issue.


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TrainWreck618 said:
You can got the u joints “non greasable” but you will need to still grease your driveshaft. That goes for all aftermarket driveshafts.


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What was way of life saying about the double something for the stock shafts that made them good. That aftermarket shafts were not for something. Was that the u joint part. I forget what they were talking about on that part.
 
TrainWreck618 said:
For some reason I remember them being off the shelf shafts that were not customized for his specific lift. In no way am I defending Adams, but I thought there was another issue.


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I am at 3.5/2.5 with 2.5 springs and a 1.0 front spacer. So I am fine with just the standard 0-4.5 inch lift 1350 deriveshaft even when I go to 2.0 mopar springs or do I have to measure actual gained lift height from stock.
 
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