Axles....to ProRock, or not to ProRock....

MR.Ty said:
That's not entirely true. That was a problem with the old D35 but the D44 will be retained by the brake caliper and supporting hardware. Your tire and shaft won't work their way out of the axle.
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I don't think the caliper and hardware is something to rely on. Now I agree it will hold it there, but in no way should someone think that's a good idea. It's a VERY temporary hold.
 
Zadi said:
Sorry all. Not to derail the thread as I'm learning a lot and I'm also considering the prorocks 44 front and 60 rear. I have a question about full float axles. I think I understand the concept but if someone more knowledgeable could explain that would be great. Does it have to do with a separate flange and shaft?
Thanks
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A semi-float axle will have axle shafts that both turn your wheels and holds up the weight of your Jeep. A full float axle will have an axle shaft that ONLY turns your wheels. The weight of your Jeep is held up by a spindle and hub extending from your axle.
 
^^^perfect. Now if anyone is going 60 rear, just do the full float and never look back. Might as well if your spending the money
Now, who wants to buy my axles. All this talk makes me want to do my 60's right now!
 
In contact with Drew over at ORE and should have an idea of pricing soon. Can't wait. Thanks for the help guys and gals.
 
So, got an estimate from Dynatrac and Off-Road Evolution for around $6500. This includes:
-New PR44, 4.88 gears, ARB locker, all installed at Dynatrac ~$4000
-PR44 installed
-4.88 gears, ARB locker installed on the rear ~$2500 for these two from ORE

Does this seem right/fair? I can post more specifics if anything seems off.
 
That demo video helped a lot. Thanks for that. Seems like full float is the way to go. Thanks Eddy and USMMA 11 NC for the video.
 
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