ATX Slab vs. Hutchinson Rock Monsters - opinions?

Some damn lawyer probably wrote it. ;)

My jeep is plated in Minnesota, after re-reading there rules, I need to hurry up and get my Iowa plates, as my bumper is to high for Minnesota laws, plus I plan to stubby it. And they got some stupid rule bumper must extend 10" out from the frame rails... :doh:
 
I have no exp with either the ATX or RM's, however why not have the Spyder lock rim in the mix? Very similar to the ATX, near identical... 9.5" width, 365.00 per rim / 0 shipping cost... ???

Sean if you look around the slabs can be had cheaper than your price on the spyder locks. $362 per rim / 0 shipping cost is what I got mine for
 
I have the Rockmonsters and like them very much. There are a few advantages and disadvantages not mentioned yet:

They do lock both beads, although breaking an inner bead would be rare on the Slabs. You can air down to whatever you want with the RM's. I don't think they would ever lose a bead.

The bolts are recessed from the rim face by quite a bit. They come with caps that are functional and necessary. However, exposed bolts are still that; exposed. The bolts on Slabs do break (see Greg's recent great post about how to fix them). But when a bolt breaks on Slabs it is a much easier fix.

The leaks are due to improper oring installs. I had one out of 5 that leaked. After reinstalling it worked fine. Once the oring is right they have not leaked.

They are very difficult to disassemble. You cannot just compress the tire to break the bead. The rubber lock ring prevents that, so breaking a bead is no small feet.

RM's are the quirky option. Slabs are the "sensible" choice: You never need spacers and there is a big user base for good reason. And the rings look good with some trail rash.

Dave
 
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I think dchew has pretty accurately summed up the comparison with a great post. I will still stick by my assumption that "I am solely responsible for breaking the ring bolts on my Slabs do to laziness and not checking tightness". Here is my only criteria for choosing a beadlock wheel; is it in the photo below, because all of these are badass and they are pretty too.
 

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I think dchew has pretty accurately summed up the comparison with a great post. I will still stick by my assumption that "I am solely responsible for breaking the ring bolts on my Slabs do to laziness and not checking tightness". Here is my only criteria for choosing a beadlock wheel; is it in the photo below, because all of these are badass and they are pretty too.

Hey Greg, you forgot one... Well, it's a technicality, but they are slightly different than slabs...
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1367159944.869382.jpg
 
Here's my :twocents:

I have Pintler beadlocks. However, in this picture it shows exposed bolts. Mine have the rounded head bolts that take a hex key. I have scraped the hell out of them and have not had a problem with them. Pintler Beadlocks are DOT compliant. That being said, when ATX does come out with a 20" wheel I will probably change over.

pint_bl_bill_1_1.jpg

AEV’s classic wheel design, the Pintler combines timeless styling with the innovative features and off-road strength that you’ve come to expect from AEV. The beadlock version of the Pintler is a true two-piece wheel meant to stand up to heavy off road abuse. Our beadlocks are cast – as opposed to cut and welded – to ensure structural integrity and to comply with DOT regulations for two-piece wheels. They also feature our recessed valve stems, which come in pretty handy when dragging your wheels across rocks or other obstacles. And most importantly, they were designed for Jeeps, not as a one-size-fits-all aftermarket wheel. They have a JK-specific offset, which provides the optimal balance of tire clearance (up to 37” tires), scrub radius and handling. Available in Argent and Silver finishes.

We recommend using a thin wall socket for installation to avoid scratching the inside of the lug pockets. Available for sale (see Related Products), it also stores neatly inside your AEV Jack Base.

Key Features:
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• Tested to stringent SAE J2530 standards
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• Lifetime structural warranty

http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/shop-by-category/wheels/jk-pintler-wheels-non-beadlock.html
 
I had to make the same decision a few months ago, I went with the slabs. I recently road with a guy that had the rock monsters, both are good looking wheels but the recessed bolt and thick rings on the slabs are a definite plus. After a weekend in the rocks i had quite a bit of rock rash, although the bolts on the rm's are recessed the are still slightly exposed so i could see some possible issue their as well as with the lip of the rm's. I know most of this has been stated before but thats my exp with the rims
 
I run RM's, I have never had a problem breaking the bead to change out tires.
I also have never had a problem with leakers.
True they do not have a ring to take the abuse, the only downfall in my opinion.


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As far as the "Star Ring", I am sure Eddie will chime in to his experience with those and why he had them machined out for Moby when he get's off the trail this afternoon.
 
As far as the "Star Ring", I am sure Eddie will chime in to his experience with those and why he had them machined out for Moby when he get's off the trail this afternoon.

He did not have them machined out, those were actually Spyderlocks. He switched to Slabs a couple of years ago. He had said that the center portion of the Spyderlock "star " beadlock ring would get bent and make the tire/rim combo wobble and become hard to balance.
 
He did not have them machined out, those were actually Spyderlocks. He switched to Slabs a couple of years ago. He had said that the center portion of the Spyderlock "star " beadlock ring would get bent and make the tire/rim combo wobble and become hard to balance.

Yep. And I know many Jeepers hate mud, but for those of you that do hit the sticky stuff, mud can get packed in the spiderlocks which will also cause balance issues on the drive home (unless you clean them out before hitting the pavement).
 
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