Apex Autolynx sway bar disconnect

Jsouder53 said:
The bolt on coilovers still have 11.5 inches of wheel travel vs the autolynx 10.5 limit.
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Ah yep. For some reason I thought the bolt ons weren’t quite the full 11.5 once everything is dialed with bumps and whatnot. Now I’m gonna have to go experiment 🤔. When I get my jeep back from the shop, maybe I’ll post up some comparison pics with measurements.
 
RESURECTIONJK said:
Ah yep. For some reason I thought the bolt ons weren’t quite the full 11.5 once everything is dialed with bumps and whatnot. Now I’m gonna have to go experiment 🤔. When I get my jeep back from the shop, maybe I’ll post up some comparison pics with measurements.
Click to expand...
Did you ever try this out? Still using them? I got a set of used teraflex disconnects that I have used for 2 years. I had to replace the bushings a couple times... and they have worked! Wondering about the measurments you got?
 
sunnysideup said:
Did you ever try this out? Still using them? I got a set of used teraflex disconnects that I have used for 2 years. I had to replace the bushings a couple times... and they have worked! Wondering about the measurments you got?
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Thanks for the reminder. I did go out and take some measurements but got sidetracked.

I can’t speak for how they work with bolt on Coilovers but, the shocks I’m running have a 12.75” travel length.

disconnected completely (unbolted from the axle) I get about 12-5/8 on the driver side before things start to bind and it stops. Passenger side is right at 12” (assuming because of how the track bar pivots on that side at the axle.

Connected to the axle and ran with the auto lynx open, I got exactly 12” of travel on the driver side and about 11-1/4 on the passenger side. So they are limiting my travel some, about half an inch which for me, it’s not enough for me to notice or care.

I took these measurements off of the visible shock shaft from the bottom of the shock body to the collar on the shaft. Probably a better and more accurate way to measure but, that’s what I ended up with.

If you’re running long arms and long Coilovers or long travel shocks and really want all the flex you can get, these aren’t for you. If convenience is a factor and you don’t care about losing 1/2-3/4 of shock travel, I think they’re just fine for the average guy.
 
RESURECTIONJK said:
Thanks for the reminder. I did go out and take some measurements but got sidetracked.

I can’t speak for how they work with bolt on Coilovers but, the shocks I’m running have a 12.75” travel length.

disconnected completely (unbolted from the axle) I get about 12-5/8 on the driver side before things start to bind and it stops. Passenger side is right at 12” (assuming because of how the track bar pivots on that side at the axle.

Connected to the axle and ran with the auto lynx open, I got exactly 12” of travel on the driver side and about 11-1/4 on the passenger side. So they are limiting my travel some, about half an inch which for me, it’s not enough for me to notice or care.

I took these measurements off of the visible shock shaft from the bottom of the shock body to the collar on the shaft. Probably a better and more accurate way to measure but, that’s what I ended up with.

If you’re running long arms and long Coilovers or long travel shocks and really want all the flex you can get, these aren’t for you. If convenience is a factor and you don’t care about losing 1/2-3/4 of shock travel, I think they’re just fine for the average guy.
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These may be my next purchase... I think I can live with that!
 
Resurrecting this thread to add a few comments after installing these on my '23 JT Mojave with a stock suspension.
  • Having never installed suspension components myself before, this was definitely more of a pain to do than it looked like from all the YouTube yahoos' install videos. The top link that requires a hex key was extremely tight from the factory. I ended up just using the wrench on the nut without the hex key just so I could get it to start moving. Moving the clip rings wasn’t bad. I used a plastic tool for opening split rings for camera straps. A guitar pick would probably work as well.
  • They changed the big nuts that tighten on the clip rings from silver to black. Seems stupid since they now scratch super easy. No big deal since it's all hidden and will get trashed with rocks, etc. over time. It still bothers the OCD part of me, though.
  • The instructions to install them with the wolf logo facing forward works for the driver's side, but it seemed better to install it with the logo facing backward on the passenger side due to the tighter clearance on that side to the fender liner.
  • Installed on my stock Mojave, they will not reconnect automatically after twisting the knob. I have to manually push down on them to get them to lock. Perhaps they will break in over time, but it seems like the geometry just isn't there for automatic locking on a stock JT. I don't like having to push down on the unit (and won't want to if they're covered in mud), so I use the wood handle of a rubber mallet and leverage it between the frame and sway bar to push the sway bar downward. Maybe it will start reconnecting automatically after some break in.
My only thought after driving it disconnected now, is it doesn't feel like I remember the Rubicon JL feeling, which was to maintain a completely level hood while the axel drooped all the way down into the fifth circle of hell. Maybe it's the Mojave shocks. But it makes me wonder if still being physically connected to the sway bar when "disconnected" limits movement. Seems like the bushing at the top of the Apex would limit directional movement compared to the sway bar being completely free. I don't know enough about the suspension to know one way or the other.
 
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