Anyone have the LOD Destroyer Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier?

Mine doesnt rattle with the delrin latch. But my whole tailgate area kinda creeks and groans. But i have alot back there!! Trail rack, jerry cans and highlift.
Took it out a few times and and still doing some adjustments to see if i can quite it down a little more.
DSC_9870.jpg
 
Rottenbelly said:
Mine doesnt rattle with the delrin latch. But my whole tailgate area kinda creeks and groans. But i have alot back there!! Trail rack, jerry cans and highlift.
Took it out a few times and and still doing some adjustments to see if i can quite it down a little more.
DSC_9870.jpg
Click to expand...

Be careful you can adjust the latch to tight were it is putting to much pressure on the tailgate. Do you remember how many inches out you have the tailgate when it meets the latch.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Edwrds said:
Be careful you can adjust the latch to tight were it is putting to much pressure on the tailgate. Do you remember how many inches out you have the tailgate when it meets the latch.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
I would say at about 3 inches for the latch. It meets both the rubber stops at the same time just a hair before the latch does.
But my tailgate looks pushed in at the bottom and pulled out on top.
 
I've noticed that if you follow the instructions on the video where they say to make sure the meta latch makes contact 5-7 inches before the tail gate closes, it puts way too much pressure on the tailgate. It binds it and pushes it up. When it gets pushed up, the factory tailgate latch doesn't enter in the middle like it should, instead it kinda hits the top and rubs as it latches.

I set mine to about 3 inches before the tailgate is completely closed. This doesn't allow my gate to get pushed up as much. If I add my power tank to the driver side it pushed down about 1/8 of an inch, which is perfect for it to close smoothly. But, I don't drive around with my tank.

Hope I explained myself correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Thanks for taking the time

aermid said:
Here's a picture of what mine looks like if that helps
View attachment 249499


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Picture was a big help but thanks in general for taking the time. I'll keep adjusting and tinkering with the rubber bumpers and the latch and take that drive around the neighborhood. Good thing we have speed bumps lol.
I miss Marble Falls and wheeling in TX. I was at hood for about 4 years moved out in Oct 2015.


P.S. Glad I am back on the forum. I've been with the forum since the early JK Forum days but have been a bit distant trying to get my career on track. It's good to be back.

Thanks again aermid!
 
Kapone said:
Picture was a big help but thanks in general for taking the time. I'll keep adjusting and tinkering with the rubber bumpers and the latch and take that drive around the neighborhood. Good thing we have speed bumps lol.
I miss Marble Falls and wheeling in TX. I was at hood for about 4 years moved out in Oct 2015.


P.S. Glad I am back on the forum. I've been with the forum since the early JK Forum days but have been a bit distant trying to get my career on track. It's good to be back.

Thanks again aermid!
Click to expand...

Sure thing; any time :).

Nice! I'm about 45 mins from MF.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Here is mine. No rattles. This is the point at which the rubber feet make contact.

IMG_20170322_131039.jpg

Same moment in time. Tiny gap visible but the white plastic part is about as far out as it goes.

IMG_20170322_131053.jpg
 
Granite crystal is running the newer style with the plastic style puck.

On the first design that runs the metal puck, if the metal rod doesn't press up against the puck completely, you'll get rattling. Even if it's just 1/16 off. The metal rod needs to put pressure on the metal puck for it to not rattle.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Rubicon310 said:
Granite crystal is running the newer style with the plastic style puck.

On the first design that runs the metal puck, if the metal rod doesn't press up against the puck completely, you'll get rattling. Even if it's just 1/16 off. The metal rod needs to put pressure on the metal puck for it to not rattle.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

When I was in the phone with LOD adjusting mine he said they both are adjusted the same way, that the polymer one will rattle just as much as the metal one. Guess if it works go with it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Edwrds said:
When I was in the phone with LOD adjusting mine he said they both are adjusted the same way, that the polymer one will rattle just as much as the metal one. Guess if it works go with it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Correct, they both adjust the same way. But I can't imagine they would both make the same noise when rattling.

Polymer with metal vs metal on metal.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Rubicon310 said:
Correct, they both adjust the same way. But I can't imagine they would both make the same noise when rattling.

Polymer with metal vs metal on metal.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I agree with you. I tried to get them to send me the polymer one didn't happen. He mentioned that they prefer the metal one over the polymer that it was stronger when more weight is on the carrier.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Edwrds said:
I agree with you. I tried to get them to send me the polymer one didn't happen. He mentioned that they prefer the metal one over the polymer that it was stronger when more weight is on the carrier.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Yup, I tried too. I was told that the polymer one isn't necessary and that the metal one is better. I doubt the design was changed over to the polymer style if they didn't feel it was better at keeping the latch from rattling.

Till this day my carrier latch rattles. The only way to get it to stop rattling is the have the carrier make contact with my tailgate at 7-8 inches out but that binds my tailgate pushing it up. I'm sure that will eventually lead to factory tailgate latch breaking or the hinges binding or even worse the sheet metal warping. I'm no expert but those are just my thoughts.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Rubicon310 said:
Yup, I tried too. I was told that the polymer one isn't necessary and that the metal one is better. I doubt the design was changed over to the polymer style if they didn't feel it was better at keeping the latch from rattling.

Till this day my carrier latch rattles. The only way to get it to stop rattling is the have the carrier make contact with my tailgate at 7-8 inches out but that binds my tailgate pushing it up. I'm sure that will eventually lead to factory tailgate latch breaking or the hinges binding or even worse the sheet metal warping. I'm no expert but those are just my thoughts.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Was it really noticeable that it was pushing it up? I don't see any of that with mine. I'm going to double check it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Rubicon310 said:
Yup, I tried too. I was told that the polymer one isn't necessary and that the metal one is better. I doubt the design was changed over to the polymer style if they didn't feel it was better at keeping the latch from rattling.

Till this day my carrier latch rattles. The only way to get it to stop rattling is the have the carrier make contact with my tailgate at 7-8 inches out but that binds my tailgate pushing it up. I'm sure that will eventually lead to factory tailgate latch breaking or the hinges binding or even worse the sheet metal warping. I'm no expert but those are just my thoughts.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Very well said, if it wasn't a better option then why switch it? I will run the metal one for now and keep making adjustments buy will have LoD send me the polymer one, at least then it's the customer's choice and I have the option. I will even offer to pay for it unless they refuse to sell it to me. :spock:
 
Edwrds said:
Was it really noticeable that it was pushing it up? I don't see any of that with mine. I'm going to double check it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

You will be able to tell at the factory latch. The factory tailgate latch is designed to go in exactly at the center. When I had mine adjusted at 7-8 inches out, the door would actually hit the very top of the latch forcing it to go in. Once I reduced it to 5 inches it didn't hit but rubbed a lot as it would go into the latch. At 3 inches it doesn't rub as much but now I have rattling.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom