Another what did I buy?

Bigjeep

New member
So I picked up this 2011 JKU Rubicon. The drive home was terrible but I saw potential in the jeep. It’s till hasn’t been back on the road after tightening up the steering box and loose steering wheel linkage, and replacing all of the RE control arms because the super flex bushings we’re all shot. Yes, I could have just replaced the bushings but time is of the essence and apparently I like shiny new parts. 🤔
This is my first experience with a coil spring jeep. From what I have researched and measured it appears to have 5.5” of lift. (Currently measures 10.5” between front axle tube and frame). I know that’s a lot for a short arm lift. My next step should probably be geometry correction brackets for the front lowers. I’ve attached a few pictures of the front steering components so some of you can hopefully tell me what has been done there and what needs improvement.
the front lower control arms are sitting at about 14 degrees of angle right now. CE2FA279-678F-40AD-9EB4-F1202EF26171.jpegBA8C5D38-B631-4F6A-B6EF-03BC2CEB0B09.jpegD4A061BB-01BA-498C-A9AE-2416242559A5.jpeg976F6959-CD42-48CB-B795-9366E3F90067.jpegC12668FE-2E29-4BA5-8153-84FF2C059D32.jpeg
 
It has a drop pitman arm which isn't too common. You should get an angle gauge and find out where your caster angle is for starters IMO.
That and getting the alignment right is a first priority. Just looking for recommendations on changes prior to aligning it. Not that I can redo that easy enough
 
So far I found the castor angle and rear pinion were off. Got those straightened out. Still have to check toe. Then it if quits snowing soon I can go out and see how it drives.
 
Based on what you can see in these pictures above can anyone tell me what I might have for a drag link? I broke tonight. Thankfully I was pulling into a parking spot. It’s straight. Most replacements I see are curved.
 

Attachments

  • 5873DD77-E79A-4CF9-BDC6-0C3DA18DE7B1.jpeg
    5873DD77-E79A-4CF9-BDC6-0C3DA18DE7B1.jpeg
    236 KB · Views: 20
Based on what you can see in these pictures above can anyone tell me what I might have for a drag link? I broke tonight. Thankfully I was pulling into a parking spot. It’s straight. Most replacements I see are curved.
Not sure but look for an OEM one on Craigslist or offerup. If not they're like $65 for a crown one from Quadratech
 
Based on what you can see in these pictures above can anyone tell me what I might have for a drag link? I broke tonight. Thankfully I was pulling into a parking spot. It’s straight. Most replacements I see are curved.
I don't know what brand it is... but there wasn't even a Jam nut on it... that's probably why it broke.
976F6959-CD42-48CB-B795-9366E3F90067.jpeg
 
i did similar. i bought a built 2010 with a RK long arm kit that was in disrepair. I drove it white knuckled on the highway for 4 hours to get it home and then i tore it down and rebuild most of it.... all good now and a great wheeler.

You will get there. Just keep pluging, checking bolt torques and replacing worn out parts
 
There’s a jam nut on the other side. I don’t see any purpose for two and that certainly wouldn’t weaken a steel shaft. I do appreciate the idea though. Just was hoping someone could identify that kind of drag link it is or verify whether or not their JKU has
I don't know what brand it is... but there wasn't even a Jam nut on it... that's probably why it broke.
View attachment 375040

a straight drag link
 
There’s a jam nut on the other side. I don’t see any purpose for two and that certainly wouldn’t weaken a steel shaft. I do appreciate the idea though. Just was hoping someone could identify that kind of drag link it is or verify whether or not their JKU has


a straight drag link
With no Jam Nut
 
Top Bottom