Alignment issues

NMCOD

New member
Here is my situation:

First suspension setup:

4 inch RC with 37's

(saving up and preparing to take it to EVO and have a complete suspension diff upgrade)

Factory upper and lower Nonadjustable control arms

Took it in yesterday to just have the alignment checked since I bought it lifted in January. Deployed first of February and just arrived home 3 weeks ago.

Figured I would just take it in and have everything looked at as a baseline.

I get it back and these are the numbers

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It wasn't driving bad when I took it in, the steering wheel was off a bit. Just wanted to verify all was good.

Now it seems really twitchy or flighty (lack of a better word) when driving at highway speeds.
 
Are there cam bolts installed in the lower arms? It's my understanding that the 4" RC lift requires notching of the lower control arm brackets on the frame to install cam bolts to adjust caster. If there are no cam bolts, the alignment tech can't do anything with caster adjustments. It is flighty because the caster is way out of whack. It would help if their printout showed 'before' measurements.
 
I will check and see. The lift was already installed when I purchased the jeep

If I find that there are no cam bolts and the control arms are still the OEM ones would it be best to purchase new adjustable control arms?

Do I have to purchase both upper and lower?
 
What kind of Evo set up where you looking at and how far out... if you get a set of control arms front and rear you looking at over 1000 however I think you just need the front lower and rear upper
 
I went out and took these.

Look stock to me. Don't appear to be any cambolt washer set up or modification to the mounting location.


ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1402092524.878398.jpg

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Not sure I need to call and talk with them and get their professional input

Not super experienced in the lift/suspension department.

Will upgrade to PR44 or better yet PR60's
 
I went out and took these.

Look stock to me. Don't appear to be any cambolt washer set up or modification to the mounting location.


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Nope, no cam bolts. So the only thing the alignment tech can adjust is toe and steering wheel angle. If you're gonna stick with the RC lift for a while, install some adjustable lower control arms. You can leave the stock uppers and all four rears. Or you can live with it the way it is until you get the EVO set up. Caster won't affect tire wear, only handling.
 
If I need all four to correct this issue and get it where It can be dialed in

Or if I only need the tear top and front lower than that would be great.
 
Okay great thank you.

Since I am going to EVO would it be best to just purchase their control arms
 
Okay great. Thanks everyone for your help.

I will contact EVO and discuss the purchase/upgrade
 
Not sure I need to call and talk with them and get their professional input

Not super experienced in the lift/suspension department.

Will upgrade to PR44 or better yet PR60's

Not sure how soon you plan on upgrading axles? In the mean time you might want to make sure everything else is inline, specially if it has 4" of lift. Axle centered, brake lines, front drive shaft, proper bump stops etc.
 
Thanks, good idea will do that

Spoke extensively with Drew from Off-road Evolution and we are getting a build plan in order.

In the meantime drew suggested (like each of you ) the adjustable lower control Arms and upgrade/replace the ball joints to moog
 
Did you remove the retention clips on your lugs when you swapped to your new wheels? The clips fit under the stock wheels but often interfere with aftermarket wheels. Jeep installed them to hold your disk breaks on during assembly. Unfortunately they aren't on every lug so it will in turn cause an uncorrectable alignment issue until you pop them off.
 
Retention clips? Not sure I will have to check. The jeep was already lifted and tires and wheels installed when I bought it.
 
I've seen alignment issues due to having only two clips on each of the hubs. The clips are about 1mm thick. Being that the aftermarket wheels weren't recessed to fit over the clips (like the stock wheels are), it caused the wheels to sit at a slight angle to the hub. Which in turned caused an inconsistent shift in the alignment of one wheel to the opposite wheel.

It's just a possible cheep solution to check out before moving on to the more costly ones. I understand how frustrating it can be. Good luck. I hope you find your problem.
 
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