shadowpaige64507
Member
If I were to swap it out on my Rubicon would the light still activate when the sway bar is disconnected or is that indicator disabled?
If I were to swap it out on my Rubicon would the light still activate when the sway bar is disconnected or is that indicator disabled?
I am looking forward to my stock sway bar disconnect to stop working so I can justify this upgrade.
Why not sell your motor now why it's still worth something? Lots of people out there that want to keep it stock.
8th 90th, 8 9n y 9 ram and the
8th 90th, 8 9n y 9 ram and the
You OK brah? Need us to call you an ambulance?
What the hell? Sorry guys. Phone was on while out walking. No clue.
Rather than start a new thread I am just going to add this here.......
When you buy the kit, this is all that comes in the box.
View attachment 218069
Aside from OBA, you will need to get a few things to get this this working. You can source the parts on your own like the air line and fitting to save a little bit or just find the cheapest price on the ARB stuff.
5mm air line. I am going with the ARB line to match the front locker. Part # 170301 ($18.98 shipped)
View attachment 218070
ARB solenoid. This is the same one used on the lockers. Part # 180103SP ($ between $62.00 and $85.00 each, search for the lowest priced one you can find. I paid $62.00 shipped for the one pictured)
View attachment 218076
You will then need this fitting that screws into the solenoid. ARB Part # ARB-170201 ($8.47+$4.99 shipping from Morris4x4 was the cheapest I could find)
View attachment 218077
Your also going to need a way to power the solenoid so I will leave the cost out because some guys may have a SPOD ready to go or another type of switch system to power it. Just figure in what you have and/or what you want, just know that you have to power it.
Last but not least, a Pro Cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light that will appear on your dash after disconnecting the wire harness. Not sure if any other tuners turn off the SB light but check into your application. (AEV Pro Cal $170.00)
View attachment 218078
More updates to follow once I receive all the misc parts I ordered and install it.
Rather than start a new thread I am just going to add this here.......
When you buy the kit, this is all that comes in the box.
View attachment 218069
Aside from OBA, you will need to get a few things to get this this working. You can source the parts on your own like the air line and fitting to save a little bit or just find the cheapest price on the ARB stuff.
5mm air line. I am going with the ARB line to match the front locker. Part # 170301 ($18.98 shipped)
View attachment 218070
ARB solenoid. This is the same one used on the lockers. Part # 180103SP ($ between $62.00 and $85.00 each, search for the lowest priced one you can find. I paid $62.00 shipped for the one pictured)
View attachment 218076
You will then need this fitting that screws into the solenoid. ARB Part # ARB-170201 ($8.47+$4.99 shipping from Morris4x4 was the cheapest I could find)
View attachment 218077
Your also going to need a way to power the solenoid so I will leave the cost out because some guys may have a SPOD ready to go or another type of switch system to power it. Just figure in what you have and/or what you want, just know that you have to power it.
Last but not least, a Pro Cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light that will appear on your dash after disconnecting the wire harness. Not sure if any other tuners turn off the SB light but check into your application. (AEV Pro Cal $170.00)
View attachment 218078
More updates to follow once I receive all the misc parts I ordered and install it.
I understand what Evil is saying and I like the write up. I also see how your get electrical power to the system, but what about air? Do you have ideas for people who already have two lockers running off of their on board system? It would seem that they would need another port. So......how to go about that?
Thank you for the post Evil!!
A T-Tap off the top of one of the existing air ports with the correct threaded couplings could run 2 solenoids.
I've never seen on these fancy shmancy air manifolds but I bet you could drill and tap it pretty easy IF you didn't want to put a T in place.
This all seems fancy schmancy to me. $300 buck (no limits, solenoid, air like and nipple) so you don't have to bend down in a parking lot and disconnect 2 cotter pints while you are airing down seems crazy, but if people of it I can't argue.
This all seems fancy schmancy to me. $350 (no limits, solenoid, air like and nipple) so you don't have to bend down in a parking lot and disconnect using 2 cotter pins while you are airing down seems crazy, but if people pay for it I can't argue.
I have nothing helpful to add to this thread, just stopping by to drool [emoji12]
Great looking rig!