Advice for a JK noob

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wackamole

New member
I've got a 2015 JKU Sahara with the hardtop package, stock 18in wheels with 255s, 3.73, standard Dana 30/44, 3.6L, and the 6spd manual. I've decided on getting a 3.5" Metalcloak suspension kit, but my biggest concern is with the tire size. I've read a lot on forums, but don't necessarily have much first hand experience with this stuff like many of you or access to off-road shops (deployed). I'm not building this rig for rock crawling or extreme off-roading, but mostly overland and trails. I prefer driving through the wilderness (i.e. Moab, Carrizo Plain) mostly and making camping trips out of it. So my big question is what the real benefits of having a 35" over a 33x11/12.50? I'm not worried about the aesthetics of a slightly smaller tire, but rather it's function. And if I were to go with 35s, what other work am I going to have to do with it (re-gearing, axle hardening, driveline, etc..)? I'll eventually get to these things, but I don't want to put 35s on and have a major drag on performance just for the tire. I'm in the military and obviously not made of money, so having to make egregious amounts of purchases and changes just to fit a tire isn't worth it to me. I'll be using this in the low/high deserts of SoCal, if that helps. And I'm also looking at BFG A/T KO2s and Duratracs.

Lift kit: http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Jeep-Dual-Rate-Lift-Kit-2-5-3-5-Fox-Edition-p/7120.htm

Any info is welcome to ease my mind. Thank you.

-Josh
 
wackamole said:
I've got a 2015 JKU Sahara with the hardtop package, stock 18in wheels with 255s, 3.73, standard Dana 30/44, 3.6L, and the 6spd manual. I've decided on getting a 3.5" Metalcloak suspension kit, but my biggest concern is with the tire size. I've read a lot on forums, but don't necessarily have much first hand experience with this stuff like many of you or access to off-road shops (deployed). I'm not building this rig for rock crawling or extreme off-roading, but mostly overland and trails. I prefer driving through the wilderness (i.e. Moab, Carrizo Plain) mostly and making camping trips out of it. So my big question is what the real benefits of having a 35" over a 33x11/12.50? I'm not worried about the aesthetics of a slightly smaller tire, but rather it's function. And if I were to go with 35s, what other work am I going to have to do with it (re-gearing, axle hardening, driveline, etc..)? I'll eventually get to these things, but I don't want to put 35s on and have a major drag on performance just for the tire. I'm in the military and obviously not made of money, so having to make egregious amounts of purchases and changes just to fit a tire isn't worth it to me. I'll be using this in the low/high deserts of SoCal, if that helps. And I'm also looking at BFG A/T KO2s and Duratracs.

Lift kit: http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Jeep-Dual-Rate-Lift-Kit-2-5-3-5-Fox-Edition-p/7120.htm

Any info is welcome to ease my mind. Thank you.

-Josh
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First of all, scrap your lift plans. Waste of money. You're just going to raise your center of gravity and not get your axles any higher. Your astronomical lift will also hurt performance a lot more than 35vs33" tires. Your drag will increase probably by 35%...and I think Eddie is running something like a 4" lift but he's on 40" tires. If you plan on 33s, keep the stock suspension, maybe a nice leveling kit and flat fenders. If you go with 35s, a quality 2.5" (or no lift and flat fenders) is more than enough. I run 35" tires on 2.5" of lift and it's enough for me. Don't believe 95% of the stuff you read...guys sticking their jeeps 6" in the air, making them tip over if they run over a pebble. That lift above will do absolutely nothing for you.

My last rig on 33s and a leveling kit
9372467433_995f1d7226_b.jpg


Current rig on 35s and a 2.5"

16563537485_199d4cdde9_b.jpg


The above is my .02
 
Solid advice^^^^^
the only way to raise axles and diff is with tires. Bigger tires will clear terrain easier yes, but upd the wear on the vehicle and leverage on the drive train.
 
I agree with these guys. However on a side note. I just installed the game changer/Arb lift(just a step up from the on you linked too) from metal cloak and put on 35's. I couldn't be happier. I think it ride/handles better on road and offroad that my stock rubicon.
 
I agree with riding and handling better I just put a 2.5 inch spacer lift with new gas shocks and it rides a lot better then stock. But bigger tires are a must if you want more ground clearance from your diffs.
 
I thought at one time metalcloak was a good lift I have seen some stuff that makes me wonder about their stuff. I ran 33's with no lift just fine and run 35's with a 2.5 inch lift just fine.
Stock with 33's
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1426388588.378927.jpg
With a 2.5 inch lift
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1426388659.127485.jpg
And with 35's with same lift
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1426388914.168347.jpg
 
Rog guys. Thanks for replies and nice rigs. With the way Jeeps are built, I guess you really don't need much of a lift, after all. I'm glad I didn't see anyone bashing 33's because they're a hair smaller. I figure if these tires are good enough for the Outback, they're good enough anywhere. I think the reason I wanted a little taller lift is that when I eventually add some weight with fr/rr bumpers and gear, that I didn't want to lose the height. Because I want a lift, how would all the extra weight of added parts and gear affect the BB/leveling kit, vice a 2 or 2.5" suspension kit(which would probably sag from the weight)?
 
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With the better motor, 3.73's and a manual, you wont need to regear the axles for 35's. You can but you wont gain much for the cost.

Best bet for you (in my opinion), trim the fenders, get some 295/70/17's (roughly a 34 inch tall tire) some new wheels, front and rear bumper with a small budget boost. This size tire gives you plenty to hit trails, wilderness, etc and still look aggressive enough.

Here is mine with a budget boost, and trimmed fenders with that size tire. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1426391692.483889.jpg
 
Since everyone is recommending a BB/leveling kit.. (pretending money isn't a problem) are you guys saying that a 2.5" BB from, say TF, w/ or w/o shocks utilizing the factory suspension would be about the same as running a 2.5" TF with new coils and shocks? I guess that is the biggest question I have now.
 
For overlanding, from what Ive learned so far. My .02 cents would be to buy a quality 2.5" lift and 35s. Old Man Emu lift possibly? Maybe even reservoirs for the shocks if you were planning to cruise at a good speed out west over rougher terrain.
 
I just put the new Mopar 2in that was Eddie to covered at SEMA on a few weeks ago. Coils, 2.0 Fox shocks, longer better front drive shaft, and a really cool crate that is going to be my new coffee table as soon as I seal it with clear clear lacquer. It cost more then the 2.5 TF BB that I had on my other Jeep, but so far I really like it. Taking it to Moab in a few months, so we will see how it works there.
 
wackamole said:
Since everyone is recommending a BB/leveling kit.. (pretending money isn't a problem) are you guys saying that a 2.5" BB from, say TF, w/ or w/o shocks utilizing the factory suspension would be about the same as running a 2.5" TF with new coils and shocks? I guess that is the biggest question I have now.
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In short no. All lifts are different all jeeps have different weights and 2dr vs 4dr. So when it comes to coils I got a 2.5 inch lift. I netted closer to 3.5 this is just my situation where I got a lift for my 2dr that is meant to be for 4drs as well. You do 2.5 inch pucks that's exactly what you are getting 2.5 inches
 
jango said:
For overlanding, from what Ive learned so far. My .02 cents would be to buy a quality 2.5" lift and 35s. Old Man Emu lift possibly? Maybe even reservoirs for the shocks if you were planning to cruise at a good speed out west over rougher terrain.
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I've learned that putting the tires you want and then doing as little as necessary to clear their cycle is the best while keeping the COG low and as much OEM stuff as possible. If we're not talking a rubicon id replace the shocks with some rancho monotubes or something similar but that's it.
 
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NFRs2000NYC said:
I've learned that putting the tires you want and then doing as little as necessary to clear their cycle is the best while keeping the COG low and as much OEM stuff as possible. If we're not talking a rubicon is replace the shocks with some rancho monotubes or something similar but that's it.
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This. All of this.
 
The point is, you try and keep things as simple as possible. You don't want complex sh!t on the trail..if we wanted complex, we'd be driving Land Rovers (bazzzzzing :D ) and the OEM stuff is tried and true. So, if you want 35" tires, get your 35" tires and then do what you need to do to let them cycle, which thankfully on a JK requires nothing but flat fenders, and as luck would have it, the best flat fenders are also free, since your jeep came with 4 of them....just need to give them a trim. Get a set of EVO skids to protect your bowels, and go enjoy the outdoors, and use the money you saved from the suspension on a nice ARB fridge and fuel for your journey. After you put a bunch of miles on trails on your rig, you'll know exactly what you need, what you want, and what you don't want. You'll also be very happy that you'll have excellent geometry (since you didn't mess with your steering), no driveshaft issues, no EVAP being too close to the DS and need to move it, no exhaust crossover problems, etc. Since you're in cali, swing by ORE and have them weld on some C gussets for a little insurance, a nice set of their sliders, and a slap on the ass and you'll be more trail ready than you would be with a 3.5" lift, and happier.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
The point is, you try and keep things as simple as possible. You don't want complex sh!t on the trail..if we wanted complex, we'd be driving Land Rovers (bazzzzzing :D ) and the OEM stuff is tried and true. So, if you want 35" tires, get your 35" tires and then do what you need to do to let them cycle, which thankfully on a JK requires nothing but flat fenders, and as luck would have it, the best flat fenders are also free, since your jeep came with 4 of them....just need to give them a trim. Get a set of EVO skids to protect your bowels, and go enjoy the outdoors, and use the money you saved from the suspension on a nice ARB fridge and fuel for your journey. After you put a bunch of miles on trails on your rig, you'll know exactly what you need, what you want, and what you don't want. You'll also be very happy that you'll have excellent geometry (since you didn't mess with your steering), no driveshaft issues, no EVAP being too close to the DS and need to move it, no exhaust crossover problems, etc. Since you're in cali, swing by ORE and have them weld on some C gussets for a little insurance, a nice set of their sliders, and a slap on the ass and you'll be more trail ready than you would be with a 3.5" lift, and happier.
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This is honestly great advice I wish I read 7 years ago lol. I've wanted to go back to my stock suspension but since I have an SYE in my transfer case now, I can't go back to the stock driveshaft.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
I've learned that putting the tires you want and then doing as little as necessary to clear their cycle is the best while keeping the COG low and as much OEM stuff as possible. If we're not talking a rubicon id replace the shocks with some rancho monotubes or something similar but that's it.
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Agree.

My thoughts....
33" tyres are fine for what the OP says they like to do. In Australia, 33" is pretty much the standard for people touring most 4WDs across the country.......bigger tyres for people doing a lot of difficult technical 4WDing.
My 13MY JK currently runs factory 255 32" A/T tyres that'll change to M/T 285/70 33" tyres when the originals wear out. I have a small custom lift that requires no mods other than springs and shocks. My plan was to keep the suspension as close to OEM as possible.
I use mine in a similar manner to the OP plans......the above works well for me.
 
LeighP said:
Agree.

My thoughts....
33" tyres are fine for what the OP says they like to do. In Australia, 33" is pretty much the standard for people touring most 4WDs across the country.......bigger tyres for people doing a lot of difficult technical 4WDing.
My 13MY JK currently runs factory 255 32" A/T tyres that'll change to M/T 285/70 33" tyres when the originals wear out. I have a small custom lift that requires no mods other than springs and shocks. My plan was to keep the suspension as close to OEM as possible.
I use mine in a similar manner to the OP plans......the above works well for me.
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I don't disagree, nice 33s are awesome, but if someone wants 35s AND lives on the west coast, I wouldn't talk em out of it.
 
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