Adams Drive Shafts

IBeHeWhoIsJoshua said:
That's basically what I've been told by manufacturers, resalers, shops, and race teams. That's why this is so confusing. One good thing about a forum and peoples opinions on them, user experience.
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Aside from Tony Pellegrino and GenRight, what "manufacturers, resalers, shops, and race teams" are you referring to?
 
piginajeep said:
No, really anything with bigger than stock 1350's. Factory is 1330
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that's what Adams told me when I first got mine. 1310 solid joint up to a 37. over 1350. I would have don't at least a rear 1350 looking back but that's what they say over the phone.
 
ERAUGrad04 said:
This. Going with a 1310 is actually weaker than stock. If you are going to pay the money to upgrade, actually upgrade and get a 1350. As jnabird mentioned, the weakest link theory does not always work.
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To be fair, there's only one 1330 u-joint on the JK and that's on the factory front shaft. The factory rzeppa joints are actually very strong and for the most part, fail only because of the severe angle they get put in once you lift your Jeep. This in turn causes the CV boot to be in a constant state of pinch and that cause the boot to fail sooner than later and with it compromised, the bearing inside fail soon after. I have seen the actually shafts barber pole before the rzeppa joints would have ever failed under duress.

Like you and what others have stated, a 1310 is WEAKER than the one u-joint that comes on a JK and god only knows that I have tried going down this route 7-8 years ago. I now run 1350's for a reason.
 
wayoflife said:
I now run 1350's for a reason.
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So if you were running sub 5 gears w a d30, would that still be the case? Im about to order one and want it to be right the first time. Also, if i go to a pr44 someday, does the same shaft work or will it need replaced again?
 
MedixJK said:
So if you were running sub 5 gears w a d30, would that still be the case? Im about to order one and want it to be right the first time. Also, if i go to a pr44 someday, does the same shaft work or will it need replaced again?
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Again, a 1310 is a SMALLER and WEAKER u-joint than the one u-joint that comes on your factory front shaft. Even if you're running 37" tires with your Dana 30, the odds of you breaking a 4.88 ring gear or smaller ratio is slim. You're more likely to break an axle shaft at the u-joint than anything but again, that's just what I have seen and experienced over the years. Unlike shops and race teams that trailer their Jeeps everywhere and maybe log in a few thousand miles a year on them if they try really hard, I drive my Jeeps everywhere, wheel them in remote locations and then drive them back home. I NEVER trailer my Jeeps ANYWHERE and literally have over 150,000 miles on Moby and well over 75,000 miles on Rubicat alone. I build my Jeeps to be dependable and reliable so that they can take me where I want to go and back. Again, I can only share what I have personally seen and have personally experienced and if it were me, I would still recommend a 1350. But, that's just me.
 
wayoflife said:
Again, I can only share what I have personally seen and have personally experienced and if it were me, I would still recommend a 1350. But, that's just me.
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Im totally with you. Just wanted to be sure that a 1310 wasnt a better choice for my setup. No trailer here either. Its my DD as well so, durable is obviously a must.
 
MedixJK said:
Im totally with you. Just wanted to be sure that a 1310 wasnt a better choice for my setup. No trailer here either. Its my DD as well so, durable is obviously a must.
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Depending on how you wheel, a 1310 can and will work just fine. It'll also cost less than a 1350 and if you're gonna put it anywhere, up front is the only place I would run one. But again, that's just my opinion.
 
wayoflife said:
Depending on how you wheel, a 1310 can and will work just fine. It'll also cost less than a 1350 and if you're gonna put it anywhere, up front is the only place I would run one. But again, that's just my opinion.
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Im basically wheeling places like windrock park which im sure you saw video of. Need a new front DS to compliment the 3" plush rides and wanna make the right choice, as they obviously arent cheap.
 
I just put in a set of their 1310's...they suit my need, they went in without hitch and the price was right.

I'm on a 2.5" lift with 35's..two door

Time shall tell if they hold up....
 
piginajeep said:
No, really anything with bigger than stock 1350's. Factory is 1330
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Thank you, I didn't know they already had a 1330...


wayoflife said:
:cheesy: LOL!! Sounds like you've been talking to Tony Pellegrino again. He is a big name in the industry, he does race and compared to him, I'm a nobody. You probably would be best served to go with whatever he recommends you buy. For me, you should know me well enough by now that I don't just recommend any ol' parts unless there's a reason for it and based on personal experience. And with that, you can take whatever I would recommend with a grain of salt :yup:
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That's it I'm banning myself!

:cheesy:

Well, I was genuinely curious on the subject and was hoping you and others could elaborate for those of us who were a little confused. I'll need a new front driveshaft way sooner then later. There were more then one person and companies that made the comment and that's what was making it confusing for at least myself. Yes, I do know you better then that and why I respect your opinion enough to ask and learn what I can. I'm pretty sure you have much more experience behind the wheel of a JK then the afore mentioned person. :cheers:
 
Sorry to the OP, but since we're already off topic anyway, wanted to inquire if any one has experience with the RCV joint driveshaft end.

To compensate for an increased driveline angle and allow the driveshaft to rotate in harmony, most vehicles upgrade to a 1310 (left) or 1350 (middle) CV (constantvelocity) joint. Though the 1310 is capable of 28 degrees of operating angle and the 1350 is 32 degrees, neither comes close to the RCV's 0- to 45-degree range.
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Driveshaft.JPG

Joints.JPG

I've never heard mention of these (probably for a reason), but they came up in my search when looking for 1310 vs 1350 comparisons. I could appreciate how in a short wheel base rig, the higher angle range from the RCV could be better, but how are these in a reliability scenario?

(Pics and quote from fourwheeler.com)
 
JK_Dave said:
Sorry to the OP, but since we're already off topic anyway, wanted to inquire if any one has experience with the RCV joint driveshaft end.

I've never heard mention of these (probably for a reason), but they came up in my search when looking for 1310 vs 1350 comparisons. I could appreciate how in a short wheel base rig, the higher angle range from the RCV could be better, but how are these in a reliability scenario?

(Pics and quote from fourwheeler.com)
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You never hear about it because it never happened. Unlike axle shafts, a drive shaft spins faster - a LOT FASTER and they could never get the RCV to last.
 
If I upgrade to a 1350 now with my poor little D30 will I have to replace it when I upgrade the front axle.
 
Joker151 said:
If I upgrade to a 1350 now with my poor little D30 will I have to replace it when I upgrade the front axle.
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No. When you get your PR44, you will just want to order it up with a 1350 yoke. Everything should be plug and play.
 
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