Adams Drive Shafts

Just purchased and installed an Adams. Read all the reviews I could find and heard nothing but good stuff. Also there you break it we replace it warranty was nice also. I'm going wheeling tomorrow with it for the first time.
 
Saw JCR off-road was running adams as well on the rigs they took out on the latest jeep thing
 
Haven't heard of too many people with them have any complaints. I personally would run 1350 instead but that's just me.
 
JRied said:
Saw JCR off-road was running adams as well on the rigs they took out on the latest jeep thing
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LOL!! The latest Jeep thing as in the one where their front bumper tacoed from hitting a tree and where nobody elses bumper did? :crazyeyes:
 
wayoflife said:
LOL!! The latest Jeep thing as in the one where their front bumper tacoed from hitting a tree and where nobody elses bumper did? :crazyeyes:
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Lol that's pretty funny.... Only reason I stated them was when I googled Adams front driveshaft install the first videos that pop up are JCR.... Please direct me in direction of video of JCR bumper. I have there rear and that's scary
 
JRied said:
Lol that's pretty funny.... Only reason I stated them was when I googled Adams front driveshaft install the first videos that pop up are JCR.... Please direct me in direction of video of JCR bumper. I have there rear and that's scary
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No video. Here's a shot that Russ took but the one Mel posted shows it better.

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That's my old bumper. Sucks to see this, I can't tell you how many people I've pointed towards their products.
 
I'm glad I saw that because I was looking around for a new front bumper and I had it down to this one, the PS Brawler lite, and the Evo qtr. now it's down to 2 lol
 
wayoflife said:
Haven't heard of too many people with them have any complaints. I personally would run 1350 instead but that's just me.
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I've been told by big names in the industry and race teams that using a 1310 joint creates an easy to change, less expensive, and smaller spares to carry "weak link". Versus say the u-joints on the axle shafts or damaging an axle shaft, which is a lot more work to swap out, larger, more expensive yada yada. It kind of makes sense to me and has left me really confused on the matter of which driveshaft to go with, 1310 vs 1350. Genuinely curious on yours, and maybe others, thoughts on this?
 
IBeHeWhoIsJoshua said:
I've been told by big names in the industry and race teams that using a 1310 joint creates an easy to change, less expensive, and smaller spares to carry "weak link". Versus say the u-joints on the axle shafts or damaging an axle shaft, which is a lot more work to swap out, larger, more expensive yada yada. It kind of makes sense to me and has left me really confused on the matter of which driveshaft to go with, 1310 vs 1350. Genuinely curious on yours, and maybe others, thoughts on this?
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Im anxious to some input on this. Im still running 3.21 gears and a d30. Pretty much one big weak link. Lol hopefully the 3.21s will be gone soon as my wife finally understands why after driving it for a day. Prolly stuck w the d30 for a while.
 
IBeHeWhoIsJoshua said:
I've been told by big names in the industry and race teams that using a 1310 joint creates an easy to change, less expensive, and smaller spares to carry "weak link". Versus say the u-joints on the axle shafts or damaging an axle shaft, which is a lot more work to swap out, larger, more expensive yada yada. It kind of makes sense to me and has left me really confused on the matter of which driveshaft to go with, 1310 vs 1350. Genuinely curious on yours, and maybe others, thoughts on this?
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My wife's Jeep has cheap greasable 1310 joints on her shafts. This winter be broke the R&P and trashed both RCV shafts while the 1310 U-Joint was (and is) still happy as a peach.

IMO the "fuse" logic doesn't always work. This said, I struggled with this decision too and ultimately went with the 1350s on my Jeep as the stock shaft has a 1330 and I couldn't come to terms with going weaker.
 
Adams will likely tell you up to and including 37s go with a 1310, over 37s go 1350. (At least that is what they told me)
 
jnabird333 said:
Adams will likely tell you up to and including 37s go with a 1310, over 37s go 1350. (At least that is what they told me)
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That's basically what I've been told by manufacturers, resalers, shops, and race teams. That's why this is so confusing. One good thing about a forum and peoples opinions on them, user experience.
 
IBeHeWhoIsJoshua said:
I've been told by big names in the industry and race teams that using a 1310 joint creates an easy to change, less expensive, and smaller spares to carry "weak link". Versus say the u-joints on the axle shafts or damaging an axle shaft, which is a lot more work to swap out, larger, more expensive yada yada. It kind of makes sense to me and has left me really confused on the matter of which driveshaft to go with, 1310 vs 1350. Genuinely curious on yours, and maybe others, thoughts on this?
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:cheesy: LOL!! Sounds like you've been talking to Tony Pellegrino again. He is a big name in the industry, he does race and compared to him, I'm a nobody. You probably would be best served to go with whatever he recommends you buy. For me, you should know me well enough by now that I don't just recommend any ol' parts unless there's a reason for it and based on personal experience. And with that, you can take whatever I would recommend with a grain of salt :yup:
 
piginajeep said:
No, really anything with bigger than stock 1350's. Factory is 1330
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This. Going with a 1310 is actually weaker than stock. If you are going to pay the money to upgrade, actually upgrade and get a 1350. As jnabird mentioned, the weakest link theory does not always work.
 
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