AC Actuator/ Module problem (THE DREADED BLINKING DEFROST LIGHT)

[Connor H]

Hello JK Forum!!
I have an issue with my 2013 Jeep Wrangler AC Blend doors that I cannot seem to fix. I live in Texas and get to ENJOY 115 degree heat during the summer. any inconvenience with an AC is absolutely devastating.

My problem first started with the AC blend door, which had a loud and obnoxious ticking noise every time my key was put in the ignition. Turns out this was an easy fix due to this Thread here > AC blend door replacement. I simply replaced the broken actuator with this unit here (sourced from Oreily auto parts) and boom I had a functioning AC/ Heater again.

Later I had the actuator on the recirculation door break as well. Again a loud ticking noise suggested it was time to be replaced. Here is where the problems began.
For starters I had to remove the broken actuator, which is located in the most inconvenient spot EVER! For example its hidden behind the passenger speaker (reference below)

I replaced this unit first with the same Dorman actuator from Oreily's. Unfortunately not only was this difficult to replace but it caused my AC module to have to calibrate every time I started the jeep. I contacted my dealership and they let me know that Jeeps may or may not communicate with the doorman actuators. I figured they just wanted me to buy the $140 Mopar actuator. I tested their theory and purchased another brand actuator, which I have heard is the exact same as a Mopar actuators but just rebranded (pictured below).

Upon replacing the Dorman actuator to the new Crown Automotive actuator I had the exact same problem. I followed a tip from somewhere in this forum where I disconnect the battery to reset the programing of the AC module. Unfortunately the AC module continues to blink at startup. I contacted the dealership again. They let me know the AC module may have gone bad. (AC Module pictured below for reference)

After adding a new AC module and resetting it, it continues to blink. At my wits end I took the jeep in to a new dealership as the previous had lost credibility. The new dealership ran a diagnostic and found that both the actuators that I replaced where over extending. This stuck me as odd as the first actuator on the blend door worked perfectly fine once it was replaced.

The dealership suggested i replace both actuators which totaled to about $1,200 after parts and labor.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? I am willing to buy the new Mopar actuators however I am worried that after installation I will have the same issue. Is there a specific way to program these actuators or the module? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Spazbyt]

Must be heater season around here today. I have the same problem. From what I have gathered the clicking noise is the motor jumping teeth on the gears trying to open the door until it goes home but because the door cant go home now the dash knows there's a problem and gives you the blinking light. The thing that concerns me is the motor will attempt to continue to open the door after gears fail. Are the gears failing because the motor isn't being told to stop by a switch or resistance on the motor? That would explain why your new unit broke.

 

[johnrodriguez07]

Hello JK Forum!!
I have an issue with my 2013 Jeep Wrangler AC Blend doors that I cannot seem to fix. I live in Texas and get to ENJOY 115 degree heat during the summer. any inconvenience with an AC is absolutely devastating.

My problem first started with the AC blend door, which had a loud and obnoxious ticking noise every time my key was put in the ignition. Turns out this was an easy fix due to this Thread here > AC blend door replacement. I simply replaced the broken actuator with this unit here (sourced from Oreily auto parts) and boom I had a functioning AC/ Heater again.

Later I had the actuator on the recirculation door break as well. Again a loud ticking noise suggested it was time to be replaced. Here is where the problems began.
For starters I had to remove the broken actuator, which is located in the most inconvenient spot EVER! For example its hidden behind the passenger speaker (reference below)

I replaced this unit first with the same Dorman actuator from Oreily's. Unfortunately not only was this difficult to replace but it caused my AC module to have to calibrate every time I started the jeep. I contacted my dealership and they let me know that Jeeps may or may not communicate with the doorman actuators. I figured they just wanted me to buy the $140 Mopar actuator. I tested their theory and purchased another brand actuator, which I have heard is the exact same as a Mopar actuators but just rebranded (pictured below).

Upon replacing the Dorman actuator to the new Crown Automotive actuator I had the exact same problem. I followed a tip from somewhere in this forum where I disconnect the battery to reset the programing of the AC module. Unfortunately the AC module continues to blink at startup. I contacted the dealership again. They let me know the AC module may have gone bad. (AC Module pictured below for reference)

After adding a new AC module and resetting it, it continues to blink. At my wits end I took the jeep in to a new dealership as the previous had lost credibility. The new dealership ran a diagnostic and found that both the actuators that I replaced where over extending. This stuck me as odd as the first actuator on the blend door worked perfectly fine once it was replaced.

The dealership suggested i replace both actuators which totaled to about $1,200 after parts and labor.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? I am willing to buy the new Mopar actuators however I am worried that after installation I will have the same issue. Is there a specific way to program these actuators or the module? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Hi were u able to figure this out? I am having the same issue. I’ve replace actuator on drivers side and the glove compartment as well as the hvac module. I unplugged the battery as well. Still blinks.

 

[kevman65]

Hi were u able to figure this out? I am having the same issue. I’ve replace actuator on drivers side and the glove compartment as well as the hvac module. I unplugged the battery as well. Still blinks.

The guy hasn't been here since the day he joined/posted this thread, 2 1/2 years ago.

@WJCO

 

[johnrodriguez07]

Ok, thanks. My Wrangler is driving me crazy . It was a shot in the dark.

 

[jeeeep]

have you pulled any codes? that system is also part of the clock spring multi-switch system.
Not same issue but I had to replace the clock spring and cruise control side multi-switch. to cure other what I thought non-related issues with the AC doors not functioning properly

 

[johnrodriguez07]

have you pulled any codes? that system is also part of the clock spring multi-switch system.
Not same issue but I had to replace the clock spring and cruise control side multi-switch. to cure other what I thought non-related issues with the AC doors not functioning properly

I have a standard odm reader but only get p456 which I haven’t addressed yet. I had the clock spring replaced by dealer a while ago…

 

[cozdude]

I have a standard odm reader but only get p456 which I haven’t addressed yet. I had the clock spring replaced by dealer a while ago…

Your scanner will only pull ecm/pcm codes and not a body related code. Only a higher level scanner can pull body codes unfortunately

 

[cowlumbus]

Ok, thanks. My Wrangler is driving me crazy . It was a shot in the dark.

What is your actual issue? You might want to post it to a new thread to ensure eyes get on it. I've got a lot of experience of late with the actuators and the blinking control module. One of the key things is NOT to replace them with aftermarket or the blinking will continue as the jeep ECU is logging error codes for out of range calibrations from the incorrectly built aftermarket actuators. Only a proper jeep specific (JSCAN) software and OBD2 reader are going to allow you to see the codes for the failed calibration.

 

[johnrodriguez07]

What is your actual issue? You might want to post it to a new thread to ensure eyes get on it. I've got a lot of experience of late with the actuators and the blinking control module. One of the key things is NOT to replace them with aftermarket or the blinking will continue as the jeep ECU is logging error codes for out of range calibrations from the incorrectly built aftermarket actuators. Only a proper jeep specific (JSCAN) software and OBD2 reader are going to allow you to see the codes for the failed calibration.

Thank you, Well, I have replaced two actuators with after-market brands. So that may be the problem.

I replaced the actuator on the driver's side because it wasn't blowing at the feet. I can't recall if my control module started blinking before that or after...it has been about a year.

I replaced the glove box actuator because it was clicking. That sucked.

Replaced the control module because I thought it would resolve the blinking issue. Still blinks when you first turn on the car. I usually have the module set to cold and it will blink then blow warm. I have to turn it to warm then back to cold and it will blow cold.

I hope that answers what my issue is. Maybe I will invest in ODB2 software.

 

[cowlumbus]

Thank you, Well, I have replaced two actuators with after-market brands. So that may be the problem.

I replaced the actuator on the driver's side because it wasn't blowing at the feet. I can't recall if my control module started blinking before that or after...it has been about a year.

I replaced the glove box actuator because it was clicking. That sucked.

Replaced the control module because I thought it would resolve the blinking issue. Still blinks when you first turn on the car. I usually have the module set to cold and it will blink then blow warm. I have to turn it to warm then back to cold and it will blow cold.

I hope that answers what my issue is. Maybe I will invest in ODB2 software.

Def sounds like you have aftermarket actuator(s) somewhere and possibly a bad module. Unless you want to spend more then you have to I would get the Jscan App ($20) and an approved OBD2, I think I got the cheapest bluetooth one, something "peek". You'll have less then $50 in one of the best testers (for any car manufacture) I've ever seen...and I've seen a few from Volvo Vida Dice to Fordscan.

The OEM actuators are the ONLY ones that are going to work for sure IMHO and you can find them for $100 online if you wait a week or you can overpay about $170 at local dealers.

It's worth noting other then doing the calibration EVERYTIME it should not impact anything...it's just not working as attended and I like my toys to work properly even when the engineer is crap and exhausting (looking at your Jeep)

There might be aftermarket actuators that work but until someone starts to develop a database of them we can cross reference...the shot int he dark is to annoying. Since there are only 3 in a JK it's worth the hassle to stay with OEM, and I don't see that very often as OEM is (usually) a rip off.

 

[johnrodriguez07]

Def sounds like you have aftermarket actuator(s) somewhere and possibly a bad module. Unless you want to spend more then you have to I would get the Jscan App ($20) and an approved OBD2, I think I got the cheapest bluetooth one, something "peek". You'll have less then $50 in one of the best testers (for any car manufacture) I've ever seen...and I've seen a few from Volvo Vida Dice to Fordscan.

The OEM actuators are the ONLY ones that are going to work for sure IMHO and you can find them for $100 online if you wait a week or you can overpay about $170 at local dealers.

It's worthing noting other then doing the calibration EVERYTIME it should not impact anything...it's just not working as attended and I like my toys to work properly even when the engineer is crap and exhausting (looking at your Jeep)

There might be aftermarket actuators that work but until someone starts to develop a database of them we can cross reference...the shot int he dark is to annoying. Since there are only 3 in a JK it's worth the hassle to stay with OEM, and I don't see that very often as OEM is (usually) a rip off.

Thanks for your help

 

[cowlumbus]

Sure thing. Also found the OBD2 that works great with the Jscan on Amazon, $40.

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE+ Bluetooth 4.0 OBD II Scanner for iOS & Android, Car Diagnostic Code Reader Scan Tool for Universal OBDII/EOBD Vehicles​

 

[JDE22]

@cowlumbus Is there a procedure for calibrating the actuators with the J-Scan? I read on another forum that the newly installed unit should be left unplugged while running the J-Scan calibration. I don't understand how the new part could be calibrated if it is unplugged.
I have been fighting the blend door actuator for a few months now. I replaced the broken factory part with Amazon cheapy parts, and as you stated, they do not work. They will not calibrate, and they try to continue moving the blend door even after it reaches it's stops, resulting in clicking. I am going to order a Mopar part and hope that solves the clicking issue. I just want to make sure of the calibration steps. I have run the calibration several times with my J-Scan, but the blend door actuator always fails. Any suggestions?

 

[cowlumbus]

If you have a bad control module (bad flash ram) or an aftermarket actuator that tries to go greater then the range permitted then it fails the calibration that occurs every time you start the jeep...that is what is happening when the defrost is blinking. You can also force a calibration in the Jscan or the system (after turning off) resets every 3-4minutes and you can turn the ignition back on for another calibration attempt. It will continue these calibrations EACH restart of the vehicle (with a 3-4 minute off cycle) until it gets a PASS from all there actuators. Then it will no longer blink and work as intended.

They error from the failed calibration is "range to large" and you can see them try to move beyond their range while it's doing the testing. The system is put under a lot of stress from the additional movement of the cheap aftermarket actuators. See my attached screenshots from jScan.

Clicking is a failed actuator with broken teeth or such.

Sounds like you know what you are doing with Jscan. Trust me as I spent a day trying to figure out why they wouldn't calibrate. Then I got smart and moved the crap aftermarket one in my recirculation door to the OEM blend door and the error followed. Thus proving the new aftermarket actuator was the blame. I then ordered another online ($30) to test and it was "out of range" too and I sent it back, thanks Amazon.

Once I got the new OEM MOPAR in there it calibrated the first time and it's been all good now after wasting money on HVAC module first because I didn't have the Jscan yet to show me the data.