A little locker help? now aftermarket switch setup?

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ChicoJoshua

New member
So I'm running out of ideas... figured I'd ask here before I go tearing the loom apart or hard wiring them... Anyways here's the deal; Both front and rear lockers wont engage via the switch in the cab and the light on the dash just flashes. Confirmed they are not engaging with all 4 in the air. Checked connections at the axels, fuses and relays. Also jumped the relay and confirmed both front and rear engage, and then show steady light on the dash. My next idea is some switch in the TC that tells the comp that it's actually in 4lo? But, when in 4lo the dash knows it and the revs jump so the comp must know it, right? Background info, '08 JKUR, replaced the TIPM about 3 months ago(I did check most things when I installed, but not lockers). Also, not sure if it helps but my e-sway bar disconnect must have been built on the right day and still works great. I do see low voltage codes to the lockers, but clearly that's due to them not engaging(right?). Anybody got an idea of where to go next? I'm half tempted to just bypass them to get the lockers in any TC position but I'd rather just get em working properly. Thanks in advance!
 
On a JK, there is no computer signal that goes to the TC. Being that your JK is as old as it is, I'm gonna bet that the dog clutch on the rear locker isn't working anymore - isn't sliding in and out when turned on and off. This is common as the internal components inside the locker develop cracks over time and to the point where the wave spring can no longer do it's job. Your front locker will NOT work unless your rear is engaged first. But, I would bet it's still fine.
 
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wayoflife said:
On a JK, there is no computer signal that goes to the TC. Being that your JK is as old as it is, I'm gonna bet that the dog clutch on the rear locker isn't working anymore - isn't sliding in and out when turned on and off. This is common as the internal components inside the locker develop cracks over time and to the point where the wave spring can no longer do it's job. Your front locker will NOT work unless your rear is engaged first. But, I would bet it's still fine.
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Thanks for the reply... I did get both of them front and rear locking up by jumping the relay so I don't think there's a problem with the rear locker components(could be wrong tho?). The Jeep only has like 65K on it and was stock when I got hold of it, so hoping it's ok. That said, I did fully munch the rear ring gear a couple years ago and ended up putting new gears front and rear so maybe that rear was damaged, but the installer didn't mention anything. I haven't pulled the cover yet but I'll give that a go just to confirm again that it's locking up before I keep hunting for issues in the wiring...
 
jbirkle said:
Thanks for the reply... I did get both of them front and rear locking up by jumping the relay so I don't think there's a problem with the rear locker components(could be wrong tho?). The Jeep only has like 65K on it and was stock when I got hold of it, so hoping it's ok. That said, I did fully munch the rear ring gear a couple years ago and ended up putting new gears front and rear so maybe that rear was damaged, but the installer didn't mention anything. I haven't pulled the cover yet but I'll give that a go just to confirm again that it's locking up before I keep hunting for issues in the wiring...
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That's what I would do, open it up and see what's going on.
 
Hope you are having some luck finding your issue.

Just to add a little bit, I had the exact same issue with my rear locker (stock rubicon locker) that just decided to stop locking up and dash light would just flash. I pulled the diff cover and unplugged the locker and pulled wires out. I used a Milwaukee battery from one of my impacts and some wire to "jump" the locker solenoid to confirm it was still working as Eddie said, these do go bad.

Confirmed it was still working after a couple cycles I put all of the wiring back together AND everything was now working fine at the switch and confirmed this with the diff cover still off. So I had a bad connection.

So I would suggest checking the plug at the housing and with the suspension at full down travel, make sure the locker wire isn't getting pulled on. Also, If you have had a re-gear done, check the connection at locker wire where it connects to the connector in the housing (on the inside of the housing). This is a tricky plug and can easily be damaged and result in it coming loose.
 
Ok, so I double checked jumping the relay right at the relay and for sure the front and rear fully lock up so I don't think the connection at the axel is the problem. I did find that the connector for the signal from the locker was damaged, so I replaced that but seems like even when I jump the locker the signal in the rear isn't working. The front works fine, when I jump the relay the light goes steady and the axel is locked up. I'm kinda stumped tbh.... I replaced the relays which didn't help. The mechanics of the lockers seem to work just fine, but can't relay power to them from the switch although the dash lights go. I'm half tempted just to hard wire in a HD switch and call it a day... any other thoughts? Besides the risk that I forget they're engaged, any issues with taking full control or maybe a switch pro or the like? TIA
 
I may be getting closer... seems I may have lost a ground... grounding the signal to the axel give a solid light, but jumping the two wires doesn't. Now to find where the ground is suppose to be and where it's broke...
 
I think I’m kinda following you but I mean it really sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere sending power to the locker since you confirmed the locker is in fact cycling when adding direct power.

Check this plunger to make sure it is over/past the skinny plate you see next to the solenoid. This gets pulled when it locks up signaling it’s locked on your dash. I attached another pic pointing to the small plate. When installing new gears, this can be set wrong and/or if not careful, can get bent when installing the carrier without the locker oriented correctly. If it gets even slightly bent, it will not cycle.

And yes that is anti-seize the customer used as marking compound while attempting to set up his gears.

37D16A78-6352-4906-B0CA-4578B015C758.jpeg

64BB854C-8512-4EE7-9D40-F3DD8B21884E.jpeg

not sure if this is related to your issue but worth giving a look while the covers are off just in case.
 
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Disciple Off Road said:
I think I’m kinda following you but I mean it really sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere sending power to the locker since you confirmed the locker is in fact cycling when adding direct power.

Check this plunger to make sure it is over/past the skinny plate you see next to the solenoid. This gets pulled when it locks up signaling it’s locked on your dash. I attached another pic pointing to the small plate. When installing new gears, this can be set wrong and/or if not careful, can get bent when installing the carrier without the locker oriented correctly. If it gets even slightly bent, it will not cycle.

And yes that is anti-seize the customer used as marking compound while attempting to set up his gears.

View attachment 370569

View attachment 370570

not sure if this is related to your issue but worth giving a look while the covers are off just in case.
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I defiantly needs a new one of those switches, the wires are almost gone, I'm having a hard time getting a good connection to a new deutch connector, but I do think its assembled correctly.

I'm either missing a ground for the whole system, or ?
 
jbirkle said:
I defiantly needs a new one of those switches, the wires are almost gone, I'm having a hard time getting a good connection to a new deutch connector, but I do think its assembled correctly.

I'm either missing a ground for the whole system, or ?
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If you need a new plunger, you can get them ordered through amazon or most automotive stores. you will have to remove the carrier to get it out and install new one. But sounds like you need to start chasing wires.
 
Welp, Idk... havne't found any wires broken or anything. I'm leaning towards wiring em to a switch vs tearing the whole loom apart. Its not the worst thing as it'll let me lock it up whenever I want. Feeling defeated, I'll give it another go tomorrow then I'm off to the NY Run! At least there's no anti seize in there!
 
jbirkle said:
Welp, Idk... havne't found any wires broken or anything. I'm leaning towards wiring em to a switch vs tearing the whole loom apart. Its not the worst thing as it'll let me lock it up whenever I want. Feeling defeated, I'll give it another go tomorrow then I'm off to the NY Run! At least there's no anti seize in there!
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I had a wire broken inside a connector once, where the factory crimped the pin on the wire it was broken & would work intermittently if wiggled just right. The wire insulation was the only thing the pin was connected to keeping it from pulling out of the connector. I've also seen the pins break off inside the female end of the plug & work intermittently

Look inside the connectors for bent, missing, or corroded pins. Maybe even remove the pins from the connectors to inspect them

Good luck with your gremlins...
 
Ok, I think I'm giving up on sorting the electrical issues... Still same problem, haven't made any real progress; lockers function just fine jumping the relay in the engine compartment, once manually triggered the dash lights go solid and confirmed that the axels are locked up. So my issue is somewhere between the switch and the relay, which I've had no luck finding...
So I'm now looking at an aftermarket switch system (switchpros, spod, traildash or the like). I do like some of the features of the TrailDash, as my jk is a 6sp upping the idle and such could be helpful, that said, I'm guessing I may run into the same problem with the lockers as it seems like it just plugs into the current harness, so that may not help my situation... so the answer is one of the real aftermarket switch deals? and my next question is WTF on on the cost of those things!?!?

Really just venting my frustration on these lockers... but if there's any other nuggets of info/experience out there, or the TrailDash, or which crazy expense switch setup is the best, Please bring it on! TIA
 
I vote no on the Trail Dash 2. The screen isn't very responsive which doesn't instill a lot of confidence and after 3 years the touch sensitive part of the screen stopped working which would have rendered all my switches useless. I like my Trail Dash 2 for what it does but I wouldn't rely on it with all my accessories. I went with the Switch Pros and have had zero problems over the years.
 
As some things are really cool having touch screens and what not, I’m a huge fan of some things staying simple for what they are and prefer a good ol analog switch. I have seen some trail dash units have this issue with the touch screen or being extremely slow. I’d definitely suggest going with a Switch Pros system.
 
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