A lift that rides better than stock...truth or fiction??

wayoflife said:
Per axle and approximately. Again, if you want hard numbers, you should call up ORE.
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Thanks, will do when the time comes, like I said, I'm just starting "the research phase" I'm just looking for ballpark figures at this time, so I can appropriately weigh the options.
 
I won't even respond to all the "just seeking information about DTD....." or any of the other lift "differences" questions because Wayalife, MTG, 10frank9 and multiple others have cleared that up..... numerous times. In fact,so many clearly written explanations that I firmly believe someone is damn hustling you all, bamboozling you even, into a corner with your responses to either repurpose your answers and make themselves seem smarter in another "venue" or to use it against you negatively later on elsewhere. Just an uneasy feeling about some of the recent repetitive questions looking for too specific of an answer.

I will clear this whole cleaning bypass tubes debacle up.

wayoflife said:
Ummm, ever since Greg told us about it, we do :blush:
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Irish JK said:
Just to be clear, Overlander was referring to wheel cleaner I recently used to help clean mine and even just letting soak for two mintues each severely stained the aluminum finish of the King shocks. So for anyone reading this, read the label of your preferred cleaner before using and make sure it is a very mild product. When in doubt stick to Simple Green.
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wayoflife said:
:cheesy: Okay, that's the first I've heard of that. We've used an aluminum wheel cleaner before and it worked great. Now you have me worried about using it again :shock:
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crippledpetey said:
I do as well. But I don't let it soak a ton on there not like the frame and axles. But that may be why mine don't come as clean :doh:
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wayoflife said:
To be clear, if a person were to use "tire" cleaner on their coil overs - this WILL cause staining. We used aluminum "wheel" cleaner and it seemed to work okay.... for us anyway... that one time... and now I'm having doubts about using it again :crazyeyes:
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I have never used wheel cleaner on my shock tubes (you can, but it should be safe for aluminum)

I clean bypass shocks with either of these which are safe for all surfaces except heavy spraying of electrical parts.

- S100 Total Cycle Cleaner
or
- Hondabrite cycle wash

I then polish (once or twice a year) my bypass shocks and EVO Envy links with

Meguiars Marine/RV #93 metal polish.

Look 'em up......on the Internet.
 
GCM 2 said:
I won't even respond to all the "just seeking information about DTD....." or any of the other lift "differences" questions because Wayalife, MTG, 10frank9 and multiple others have cleared that up..... numerous times. In fact,so many clearly written explanations that I firmly believe someone is damn hustling you all, bamboozling you even, into a corner with your responses to either repurpose your answers and make themselves seem smarter in another "venue" or to use it against you negatively later on elsewhere. Just an uneasy feeling about some of the recent repetitive questions looking for too specific of an answer.
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LOL!! You most likely are right but really, does it matter? The losers elsewhere make up shit about me all the time and so long as it's posted on the internet, it must be true.

I will clear this whole cleaning bypass tubes debacle up.

I have never used wheel cleaner on my shock tubes (you can, but it should be safe for aluminum)

I clean bypass shocks with either of these which are safe for all surfaces except heavy spraying of electrical parts.

- S100 Total Cycle Cleaner
or
- Hondabrite cycle wash

I then polish (once or twice a year) my bypass shocks and EVO Envy links with

Meguiars Marine/RV #93 metal polish.

Look 'em up......on the Internet.
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LOL!! Very good my friend - thanks for the clarification :thumb:
 
thechrisjones said:
Any advice on this alignment? 3 inch EVO enforcer, coast to coast front drive shaft, 37's on 20 inch wheels, EVO flip drag kitView attachment 129988
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I'd say the toe is a bit "tight" wearing your tires a bit quicker, but it keeps you tracking straight and is reduced when driving 4wd.....your thrust is a bit off, nothing you couldn't correct with adjustable arms, caster could be brought to oem specs or close but then again it's a question of balance with your lift and the shaft alignement.
 
Wendy.HemiDreams said:
Hello All. I'm a seasoned Wrangler owner, currently between Jeeps. Last year I sold my 7th Wrangler, a '12 JKUR.
Which I decided not to lift because it performed so well and because I paid a lot of money for a perfectly engineered machine. But I MISSED the lift, for the clearance and the look. It just looked like a mall crawler.


My experience with lifts has not been great: bent/cracked control arms, death wobble (not able to drive it), too much travel in steering and the thought of adjustable track bars make me cringe. And, oh yeah, my husband or the local garage does not get to install this one. :naw:

A few year go when we were in Taboe, we ran into Eddie and Cindy. He said that the lift on his rig rode better than my stock Rubi. So, that is my goal. My next Jeep will be driven on road about 80% and light trails into the back country or skiing in the Sierra's for the other 20%. It will be a 2 door and I'll run 33's with flat fenders and a stubby bumper.

So, if any of you could steer me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it. Thank you all in advance for your time and input.
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You can get away with 33s, spacers, and no lift if you really like the stock suspension
 
frenchjk said:
I'd say the toe is a bit "tight" wearing your tires a bit quicker, but it keeps you tracking straight and is reduced when driving 4wd.....your thrust is a bit off, nothing you couldn't correct with adjustable arms, caster could be brought to oem specs or close but then again it's a question of balance with your lift and the shaft alignement.
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Thanks. Waiting on spanner wrench to adjust control arms. Caster needs to be around 4-6 right?
 
wayoflife said:
Yes, the old coil overs we had were 14" but we could never use their full potential due to the fact that they would droop enough to cause our drive line to bind. In order to mitigate this, we ended up having to run limiting straps. The NEW EVO DTD towers are designed differently than the original ones and this allows for a lower stance and a greater amount of articulation with just 12" coil overs. Because of it's design, you will STILL get 14" of vertical travel AND without having to run limiting straps.
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just out of curiosity, how does this math out, how is the front able to obtain 14" of travel with a 12" coil over? Is it from the coil overs being angled back and using the geometry of the control arms and wheelbase to their advantage to obtain that extra 2" of travel that wouldn't be able to be obtained with them angled straight up?
 
piginajeep said:
Google cantilever
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I meant the front in particular, I see how the rear works to get more travel than coil over body, but I haven't seen too many pictures of how the front works. It looks like the coil over being slightly angled back is what permits the extra 2" of travel, just didn't expect that angle to actually have that big of an effect, pretty cool if that's what it is.
 
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