6.0 Limited Build

Looks good, nice and simple!

It’s as long as I can possibly make it haha, any longer and it’ll interfere with the rear longarms once they’re installed. It’s a Spintech Pro Street 2.5” in/3” out to a dump with a 200-cell bullet cat in front. Should sound healthy!
 
Cranked it on Monday, 50lbs of oil pressure [emoji1303]

Setback with the fuel though. Brand new set of injectors all locked open and washed out the rings, losing compression. Didn’t make it into the oil though, so it’s sitting with the old injectors back in it and the plugs out to air out the cylinders. Going to drop some Marvel down the plug holes tomorrow and hand crank it to re-oil the rings and try again.
 
Well, it runs!

The compression loss wasn’t entirely due to fuel wash, but apparently the pushrods weren’t the length they were supposed to be (packaged as OEM replacement hardened pushrods) but were 1/16” too long, keeping the valves open and not holding compression. Slight tick but it hasn’t fully broken in yet. We’ll see if it’s still there after a hundred miles.
 
Glad to hear it runs. How did the wrong pushrods get in there and how did you even discover that?
 
Glad to hear it runs. How did the wrong pushrods get in there and how did you even discover that?

It’s my fault for trusting the packaging and not measuring them, brand new set of hardened pushrods from a very well known manufacturer that must have been packaged incorrectly as factory length Magnum rods.

I was tracing back everything that could lead to no compression, and eliminated timing off the bat as it was dead-nuts on. Cam is just a towing cam, nothing lopey or fancy, so it wasn’t anything there. We’d re-oiled the rings and there wasn’t scoring on the walls (checked with a bore scope) so it wasn’t blowing by into the oil. Ring gaps were 180 off from each other during assembly... that left valves being open, or the heads were just garbage. The heads were eliminated as the machine shop wouldn’t have let a head that bad out of their door, so I started playing with valvetrain components. Swapped the pushrods and 1.7 rollers to stock rods and rockers, and immediately gained compression. Swapped the rockers back on to see if I’d still have it and I did, measured the pushrods, swore a lot, and pulled everything.
 
Well she’s home, and tagged. Few small gremlins to tackle but it’s mostly adjustments. Distributor needs to be rotated a degree or two to retard spark, and the reverse servo is unhappy with the higher line pressure after the shift kit so a new billet unit is on the way. There’s a slight lifter tick as well, I’m waiting another 20 miles or so to see if it quiets down after break-in before checking it out. Otherwise, she hauls ass.
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Diagnosing the engine noise still. Fixed the oil leak- luckily it wasn't the rear main seal, just an issue with the oil pan gasket. Never trying a non-FelPro gasket again.

Stock rockers back in for now. There may be pushrod clearance issues with the 1.7's and the head casting. If the noise goes away I guess I'm stuck with a 1.6 ratio for now.

Valvebody is back out, torn apart and reassembled. The stock plastic accumulator piston decided to atomize itself with the increased line pressure from the valvebody shift kit. Low/Reverse servo (cast aluminum) cracked and cocked in its bore, so it's been replaced with a billet Superior piece. Accumulator piston will be replaced with a Sonnax billet piece as well, as soon as it comes in. Picked up a slightly longer (3/32") rear band strut and a much stronger, stock-length front band strut while I had the guts out. Currently working on making a bench-test unit for the various governor pressure solenoids I have to determine which one leaks the least.

If things go well and the weather behaves, it *might* be moving under its own power by Sunday!
 
Old accumulator, the boogered section on the shaft is where that ring is supposed to be.
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New billet Sonnax piece
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And it moves. Low but not at all slow, left a 30-foot two-legger even with 33s.
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The problems of a 20-year-old vehicle...

Tranny was still leaking badly. I assumed a bad gasket, but when I pulled the pan both sides were dry with no evidence of leakage. Upon further investigation I discovered several pinholes in the back corner of the pan under some rust. New pan is on the way.

The oil filter housing gasket appeared to have started leaking as well. New gasket should be in tomorrow.
 
I’m in the process of trying to locate another transmission. Of course, being a 9er makes it super hard to locate one...

No reverse, but all forward gears and funky overdrive behavior indicates front clutches. It’s easier at this point to find another one, swap my modified valve body and servos into it, and call it a day than rebuild the current one.

Time to sell my Painless Trail Rocker, I guess. Gotta pay for it somehow
 
Transmission acquired! 130kish, new solenoids, going to swap over my modified valve body and billet servo pistons and put in a new converter and call it a day
 
Cleaned up the trans and shot it with some battleship grey engine enamel I had left over from my TDI motor build.

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Also ordered a set of Hellas for the bumper in yellow, and all new Johnny Joints for my Clayton kit



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Hellas mocked up
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Made a switch panel out of a non-functioning VIC for this thing. I gutted the circuit board and then routed the front face for three switches and a pit of USB plugs. Going to build a fuse block next.
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Front band was smoked.
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Replaced it with a new slip-in band and replaced the 11/32” detent ball in the valve body that decided to disappear at terminal velocity.

Also installed a woofer and amp. Amp is tucked under the left rear seat where the factory Infinity amp was before I bypassed it. Sub is nothing special but I had it from my very first XJ, so screw it.
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Also installed a Mountain Vista Fab 44A diff skid with pinion guard to help keep the aluminum diff from splitting on a rock when I get the long arms in finally.
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