5.13s in dana30?

J

just-lift-it

LOSER
Came across a deal for front and rear 5.13's i have a 2012 Sahara would you all say stay away because the pinion will be to weak? opinions please
 
just-lift-it said:
Came across a deal for front and rear 5.13's i have a 2012 Sahara would you all say stay away because the pinion will be to weak? opinions please
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As long as it is has gussets, is sleeved and you don't lock it you will be fine for normal day driving and light wheeling.


Sent from my PRC-119
 
just-lift-it said:
Came across a deal for front and rear 5.13's i have a 2012 Sahara would you all say stay away because the pinion will be to weak? opinions please
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Personally, I have found that sleeves are totally unnecessary but, if you are running 35" tires or larger, I would recommend gussets. Your pinion will be really small but, as mentioned, so long as you don't lock up your front end, you should be okay.
 
Thanks guys, its has full arctec truss welded and knucle gussets and i am not locking it im on 37" toyo I live up in ontario canada and found a guy selling yukon gears 5.13's and brand new zip locker for my rear 44 all for a grand but i wasnt sure if the gears would be way to weak... considering the locker here is worth $900 i think its a fair deal all being new saving taxes and all!
 
I ran 5:38's and 37 mud grapplers for awhile in my 30 with no breakage. Stock axle u joint went first.
Never ran a locker in front either. Just ran it while I saved for a PR 44.
 
The problem wit upgrading the D30 is moving the weakest link to the R&P. I would't hesitate to gusset and even consider a slight regear, but beyond a 4.88; I wouldn't bother. The higher (numberically) you go in gears, the smaller the pinion gets. Since this is already weak you are increasing your chances for breakage.

I like the advice to not add lockers, but would add RCVs aren't really a good idea either. R&Ps are not nearly as easy a trail fix as an axle. The bottom line is: If I were to upgrade a D30, I would take inventory on hand-me-down stock shafts while I saved for a D44/D60 and keep the tools in my rig to do a trail axle swap.

Just my :twocents:
 
I've been running a 30 with 5.13's sleeved,gussets,trussed for awhile now did a swap with a buddy of mine when he got rid of his Jeep, no breakage yet but only two wheeling trips so far, as mentioned take it easy on em, this is only gonna be a temporary thing until I can upgrade, more than happy with the Jeep now and I'm on 35's.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
Well this would be until i have 6 grand to drop on a dynatrac front end haha which could be years...

Im more then happy with my stock 3.73 gears with the 3.6L im on 37" toyo and i can get onto the highway just fine cruise at 120km/h no issues 4l work its an automatic so crawl as slow or fast as i want

Only reason for swapping gears is so that i can tow a trailer cuz i know 5th will be useless when towing with these gears but for regular driving im content
 
The Dana 30 I am buying has low miles on the gears, and it is open. The RCV axles have less than 500 miles on them. My friend got a 44 from a brand new Rubicon to build. He is installing RCV axles, gussets, and braces. He is also now running a four inch lift with 37's.
 
I'm running 5.13s on a D30 and 35in Grapplers. You'll be just fine but like mentioned above don't lock it. Save that money for a PR44 which I am doing.
 
How are the RPM's with those gears? Just wondering, because I was originally going to go with 4.56. This Dana just got taken out. I do have a Cherokee with a small lift that I use on the highway now, because it gets better gas mileage than the JK now.
 
Well were in km/h hour not mph

So up here if im cruising at 120km/h on the freeway my rpms are sitting at 2100

At 100km/h im at about 1800rpm

I average 13.5L/100km with the 3.73 and 37x13.50 toyo mt on rugged ridge rims its a heavy ass set up dont know if ill run them again even though i love the look and the tires would like to lighten it up!

I get 550km to a tank of fuel right now on my 35" mtz i was getting 600km to a tank with no other changes to the jeep just got a good deal on these 37s so i couldnt pass it up haha
 
just-lift-it said:
Well were in km/h hour not mph

So up here if im cruising at 120km/h on the freeway my rpms are sitting at 2100

At 100km/h im at about 1800rpm

I average 13.5L/100km with the 3.73 and 37x13.50 toyo mt on rugged ridge rims its a heavy ass set up dont know if ill run them again even though i love the look and the tires would like to lighten it up!

I get 550km to a tank of fuel right now on my 35" mtz i was getting 600km to a tank with no other changes to the jeep just got a good deal on these 37s so i couldnt pass it up haha
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Converted for the stubborn Americans that refuse to convert to the numbering system the rest of the world uses.


So up here if im cruising at 74.5 MPH on the freeway my rpms are sitting at 2100

At ~62 MPH im at about 1800rpm

I average 17.43 MPG with the 3.73 and 37x13.50 toyo mt on rugged ridge rims its a heavy ass set up dont know if ill run them again even though i love the look and the tires would like to lighten it up!

I get 342 miles to a tank of fuel right now on my 35" mtz i was getting 373 miles to a tank with no other changes to the jeep just got a good deal on these 37s so i couldnt pass it up haha
 
I ran 5.38s for a couple of years with a D30, ruined 2 sets of R&P with chromoly shafts, Truetrac lsd. Stock shafts 5.13 with a very light pedal wheeling you "might" be alright. Wildly spinning tires with an open diff can be as big a risk as a locker. 5.13s would be good on the road though.
 
I am luck to get 18MPG with 3.21, and 32" Rubicon take offs. Although when I follow my friend to the trails we go on about an hour away I get about 22MPG. He does drive slower than me. He gets about 15MPG with 5.13, and 37" BFG KM2 tires.
 
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