40’s on a PR44?

RageKage

RageKage

Member
So this could constitute some heckling I know. But I have been looking at Dynatrac’s Trail Leader package (PR44 up front, ARB, 5.13s with shafts, gears, and locker for the rear to match) my question is if I was to gusset (possibly truss) the axles would they be able to confidently hold the weight of 40’s? I don’t do any type of serious or crazy trails mostly dirt roads with light bumps, rocks, and obstacles, and it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future. Really just want 40’s for the look and will be upgrading axles anyways as I have 37x12.50x18 Nitto Trail Grapplers on a D30 with stock gears (I know, I’ve heard all the heckling before, wasn’t as educated when I made that decision as I am now) I wouldn’t say I’ve babied my jeep, but I am fully aware of the consequences of this setup if I was to play too hard, but it has been doin fine for a little over 4 years now. Looking at Cooper STT pros 40x13.50x18. Any input is appreciated, and I’ll even accept the heckling and jokes that come along with it. Thanks guys.


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Friend of mine running 40s on a 44/PR44 combo recently popped his rosette welds and spun his rear differential. So you can look forward to that risk.

Also increased risk of bent axle flanges and prematurely toasted unit bearings.

To turn those wheels you’ll want 5.38s, which means a tiny pinion gear and probable ring and pinion failure.

Why not just save another $6-8k and go with a 60/60 package?
 
RageKage said:
So this could constitute some heckling I know. But I have been looking at Dynatrac’s Trail Leader package (PR44 up front, ARB, 5.13s with shafts, gears, and locker for the rear to match) my question is if I was to gusset (possibly truss) the axles would they be able to confidently hold the weight of 40’s? I don’t do any type of serious or crazy trails mostly dirt roads with light bumps, rocks, and obstacles, and it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future. Really just want 40’s for the look and will be upgrading axles anyways as I have 37x12.50x18 Nitto Trail Grapplers on a D30 with stock gears (I know, I’ve heard all the heckling before, wasn’t as educated when I made that decision as I am now) I wouldn’t say I’ve babied my jeep, but I am fully aware of the consequences of this setup if I was to play too hard, but it has been doin fine for a little over 4 years now. Looking at Cooper STT pros 40x13.50x18. Any input is appreciated, and I’ll even accept the heckling and jokes that come along with it. Thanks guys.


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Besides the possibility of spinning the rear tubes, the housings aren't the problem if you have a PR44 up front.
It's everything else, ring gears, unit bearings etc aren't built to handle 40's.
If it's a complete pavement princess built for looks, you could probably get away with it.
If it ever sees dirt, rocks etc, I would highly advise against it.

To be entirely honest, 37's with less worry of breaking shit will take you farther than babying 40's.
I can't count the amount of times that a little throttle and a bounce or two got me out of a jam.
That's NOT something you want to do on 40's unless you have 60's.
 
Another vote for sticking with the 37's, upgrading the front axle and wheeling with confidence. Jumping to 37's is a commitment in of itself. Going to 40's is one more level still to do it right.

I kicked this around a year ago and actually had the form for the 60/60 package filled out but talked myself out of it. If I lived out West and could take advantage of that setup regularly I'd do it. But I sat & did an honest analysis and decided against it. Do 40's look cool? Absolutely. Would it make me a better driver? Nope. Would I be able to take advantage of that big of a tire? No, not really. The extras REQUIRED to jump to the 40 package just didn't make sense in my case. :twocents:
 
Thanks guys. I definitely agree sticking with 37’s is the wiser and smarter choice. And the only honest reason for 40’s is the “cool” factor. The PR44/44 is a lot easier to sell the wife on because it’s “needed and necessary” for the tires I have now. Trying to add $6k-8k to the price tag plus 40’s not to mention probably new rims if the 60/60 isn’t a 5x5.5 which I don’t think it is, is gunna be a lot harder to convince. Especially when I have 3 kids all under 5 years old so my wheeling time and places will be limited. Lol Either way I definitely need to upgrade my axles since I have the stock 30/44 with 3.21 gears. Thanks for helping me convince myself I don’t need 40’s....... yet 🤣[emoji23] plus with the money not spent on 60’s I can save it for things like an EVO sport cage and speaker upgrades. You know the necessities.


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RageKage said:
Thanks guys. I definitely agree sticking with 37’s is the wiser and smarter choice. And the only honest reason for 40’s is the “cool” factor. The PR44/44 is a lot easier to sell the wife on because it’s “needed and necessary” for the tires I have now. Trying to add $6k-8k to the price tag plus 40’s not to mention probably new rims if the 60/60 isn’t a 5x5.5 which I don’t think it is, is gunna be a lot harder to convince. Especially when I have 3 kids all under 5 years old so my wheeling time and places will be limited. Lol Either way I definitely need to upgrade my axles since I have the stock 30/44 with 3.21 gears. Thanks for helping me convince myself I don’t need 40’s....... yet 🤣[emoji23] plus with the money not spent on 60’s I can save it for things like an EVO sport cage and speaker upgrades. You know the necessities.


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Just caught up on the thread. I think you're making a wise decision to stick with 37's. In reality, they're a great size for a JK.
 
It sounds like you are making the best choice.
I think you would be better off on 37s and learning to drive them well. There are very few places that 40s will get you that 37s won't, if you know how to choose a good line and drive your rig to it's potential.
I have wheeled on 37s and kept up with guys on 40s and 42s, going everywhere they did.
 
Thanks again guys. Yea I definitely feel like keeping the tires I have and upgrading axles is the right and smartest choice, especially with what all the axles will have. ARB lockers, 5.13 gears, 35 spline and the front will be a PR44?! What more could I really need? Lol


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Dynatrac ProGrips work better than a lot of big brake kits, are easier to install and cost less. For testing purposes, I've even run them with 40's and they did an amazing job.

 
fiend said:
Friend of mine running 40s on a 44/PR44 combo recently popped his rosette welds and spun his rear differential. So you can look forward to that risk.

Also increased risk of bent axle flanges and prematurely toasted unit bearings.

To turn those wheels you’ll want 5.38s, which means a tiny pinion gear and probable ring and pinion failure.

Why not just save another $6-8k and go with a 60/60 package?
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Here is our friend who spun his rear diff. He was able to get it back in place and then welded his tubes. He also bend his driveshaft too. No bueno! I ran a Pr60FF that was hi pinion and pr44 and I didnt nor was I going to put 40s on. Has it been done yes but I like to have fun when I wheel and want to drive home when I'm done so I stuck with 37s.
 

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dillard09 said:
Here is our friend who spun his rear diff. He was able to get it back in place and then welded his tubes. He also bend his driveshaft too. No bueno! I ran a Pr60FF that was hi pinion and pr44 and I didnt nor was I going to put 40s on. Has it been done yes but I like to have fun when I wheel and want to drive home when I'm done so I stuck with 37s.
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Yep. Now he’s got me paranoid about spinning my diff with 37s. [emoji47][emoji51]
 
VeruGE*144 said:
Can’t you weld it in before hand, might save you some headache. Now I am paranoid too, thanks a lot guys [emoji52]
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It can be done, but is tricky because the pumpkin is cast while the tubes are not. You need to find an experienced welder who knows how to properly preheat the cast metal and also how to get the two parts to cool in such a way that they don’t crack (metal contracts as it cools). The shop that fixed my friend’s axle is a 90 minute drive, so I can’t just pop over there.

Also, I think to be safe you’d want to remove your carrier, locker wiring, and maybe even the pinion gear and seals before welding, so they don’t all get cooked. That’s gonna add several hundred dollars in labor unless you find a welder who’ll let you do all that work yourself in his shop. Unlikely.
 
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