3.6L 3 inch lift

Sugarbear

Sugarbear

New member
Anyone running a 3-4 inch lift on a 3.6 and the exhaust spacer just wondering if there are any significant problems with that setup trying to keep my cost low till summer so if I can get away without buying front DS it'll be perfect for me
 
I am running it and I would recommend a new drive shaft over the spacers. I have hit the crossover tube on rocks and it is scraped and dinged up now. When I get the front shaft they are going to go.
 
I'm running the spacers. Haven't had any major problem with them other than the issue OverlanderJK was talking about as far as hitting the crossover pipe. The other problem I've had is the muffler hitting the heat shield since the exhaust has to be pushed back to fit the spacers, nothing a little adjusting didn't take care of. Also noticed the pipe over the axle hits the crossmember on occasion. But the spacers are a good 'bandaid' until I save for a front driveshaft.
 
JeepKeeper said:
I'm running the spacers. Haven't had any major problem with them other than the issue OverlanderJK was talking about as far as hitting the crossover pipe. The other problem I've had is the muffler hitting the heat shield since the exhaust has to be pushed back to fit the spacers, nothing a little adjusting didn't take care of. Also noticed the pipe over the axle hits the crossmember on occasion. But the spacers are a good 'bandaid' until I save for a front driveshaft.
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I just took the lip of the heat shield and bent it out straight couldn't stand the rattle, problem solved


Sent from my iPhone on the west coast of florida
 
Get a drive shaft when you can. The drive shaft contacting the crossover pipe is just one of the problems. The end of the drive shaft coming out of the transfer case that's the other problem I just replaced one the jeep had 30,000 on it the boot was shoot with a 3.5" AEV lift.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Just because the boot is shot doesn't mean your driveshaft is. My boot ripped the first time I went out after lifting my jeep. I'm still running the factory shaft.
 
Trust me your stock shaft is not that strong. I have spacers and new front DS and like said before just cause your boot rips off does not mean your DS is bad. I have yet to see a custom DS come with a boot.
 

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HLKSMSH said:
Trust me your stock shaft is not that strong. I have spacers and new front DS and like said before just cause your boot rips off does not mean your DS is bad. I have yet to see a custom DS come with a boot.
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Stock shaft is stronger than a 1310.

Conventional wisdom says don't waste the $150 on spacers. Save up for the shaft and do it once.

I do agree, it's not the boot for the slip joint tearing that's the issue....it's the boot at the transfercase that is an issue.


Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
 
CerOf said:
Stock shaft is stronger than a 1310.

Conventional wisdom says don't waste the $150 on spacers. Save up for the shaft and do it once.

I do agree, it's not the boot for the slip joint tearing that's the issue....it's the boot at the transfercase that is an issue.

I hope no one paid $150 on spacers when you can get them for $40 bucks that would just be a sad story and yes a waste of money I got them just to push it back some closer to the cross member to protect it a little.
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HLKSMSH said:
CerOf said:
Stock shaft is stronger than a 1310.

Conventional wisdom says don't waste the $150 on spacers. Save up for the shaft and do it once.

I do agree, it's not the boot for the slip joint tearing that's the issue....it's the boot at the transfercase that is an issue.

I hope no one paid $150 on spacers when you can get them for $40 bucks that would just be a sad story and yes a waste of money I got them just to push it back some closer to the cross member to protect it a little.
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Yes, mine were $40 from Rough Country. Wanted the lift but didn't have the money for a front shaft so I went with spacers. Had to have something to drop and move the crossover back enough to clear the shaft, it would rub the exhaust over a small bump without the spacers
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HLKSMSH said:
CerOf said:
I hope no one paid $150 on spacers when you can get them for $40 bucks that would just be a sad story and yes a waste of money I got them just to push it back some closer to the cross member to protect it a little.
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My bad. AFE's delete is ~$100 and spacers can be had as low as $20 from rugged ridge. That'd be quite reasonable as a bandaid.




Sent from a a few tin cans and some string.
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CerOf said:
HLKSMSH said:
My bad. AFE's delete is ~$100 and spacers can be had as low as $20 from rugged ridge. That'd be quite reasonable as a bandaid.




Not sure as how you see it as a band aid when it pushes it back to the cross member and keeps it better protected from getting crushed by rocks. From the way I am seeing your logic you must have some straight pipes coming out the fender off the header that way it is fully out of the way?
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kgw350 said:
Get a drive shaft when you can. The drive shaft contacting the crossover pipe is just one of the problems. The end of the drive shaft coming out of the transfer case that's the other problem I just replaced one the jeep had 30,000 on it the boot was shoot with a 3.5" AEV lift.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using WAYALIFE mobile app
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Agreed. While spacers will help prevent the slip shaft boot from getting damaged from making contact on the exhaust cross over, they will do nothing to prevent the CV boot on the output shaft from failing prematurely. This will occur due to the fact that the taller lift will put the boot in a constant state of pinch. Once the CV boot fails, the bearing inside will go very quickly.
 
Maybe my logic wasn't really correct by calling the extensions a bandaid, but what I meant was that they're a cheap fix to a could be expensive problem. Although they keep the exhaust away from the joint boot, they do nothing for the steep driveshaft angle causing boot and later joint failure. I never thought about that fact until reading Eddie's thread about doing 3.6 owners a favor and recommending a new front shaft.
 
Also i had a problem with the loop which was hitting my long-arm and damaging it also stopping upwards move ment.
 
I have a long arm lift and have had no prob with it contacting the loop. Which lift are you running? Because the vehicle was engineered with the loop I wouldn't delete it. I'm sure they didn't just put it in for fun..haha. Additionally I purchased the AFE Y-pipe relocation which moves it behind the trans. It work but comes with its own set of problems. With a manual trans the pipe makes contact with the trans mount on the passenger side causing a vibration at certain RPM's. Also its a two piece configuration and try as I might I can't get it tight and have condensation leaking from the connection points. For this reason I saved my stock Y-pipe and may eventually put it back on.

Sent from my EVO using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jesse0920 said:
I have a long arm lift and have had no prob with it contacting the loop. Which lift are you running? Because the vehicle was engineered with the loop I wouldn't delete it. I'm sure they didn't just put it in for fun..haha. Additionally I purchased the AFE Y-pipe relocation which moves it behind the trans. It work but comes with its own set of problems. With a manual trans the pipe makes contact with the trans mount on the passenger side causing a vibration at certain RPM's. Also its a two piece configuration and try as I might I can't get it tight and have condensation leaking from the connection points. For this reason I saved my stock Y-pipe and may eventually put it back on.

Sent from my EVO using WAYALIFE mobile app
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I just installed the afe y pipe. It was a PITA and I too had leaking. Called afe for ideas and they told me to get the clamp tighter. I told them I was afraid to get it any tighter. Sure enough I snapped the bolt. Those accuseal clamps are not in stock at a local parts store. I was able to get the parts store to get one the next morning for a total cost of $4.69. I put a impact on the new one and got it to seal. AFE did send another but I didn't want to wait 4 days.

I have an auto and the pipe clears everything so no rattles.

I tried the spacers and pulled them off since the pipe was lower than the trans crossover and would get ripped off.

I have both 1310 driveshaft and y pipe. My shocks are long enough that the driveshaft still hit exhaust at full droop.
 
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