3.5" lift Rock Krawler or Rubicon Express

Rubicon_01

Rubicon_01

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I'm looking for a 3.5" or a bit bigger lift with all 8 arms preferably Rock Krawler or Rubicon Express. I live in Canada but can have it shipped within the states can anyone help me out? Let me know, thanks.
 
I just installed the rk 3.5 X factor and I love it. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1377782041.953534.jpg Here is a pic I took yesterday after I cut the rear fenders.
 
Lots of good suspension companies.

Between RK and Rubicon Express...it's RK all the way. Great customer service, solid steel CA's which are super heavy duty, tested and proven joints.

Edit: jus notice this was in the "wanted" section. Good luck with your purchase.
 
In all fairness, solid steel doesn't necessarily = stronger or that it won't still bend but, I would agree, between the two, I would go RK.
 
i have the 2.5 RK max travel, it is awesome....if i had the extra for the driveshafts i would have went 3.5 but the 2.5 is working great...
 
Rocking the RK 2.5 Flex System. Jeep drives better than stock, gas mileage really hasn't changed, and its flexes like crazy! :rock:
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I just got the new RE 4link long arm in the 4.5in(they do make a 3.5) the kit is very stright forward to install and is all bolt on, which is the main reason i got it. I also took a gamble as it is new to RE to have a long arm 4 link. They have new joints that i have haerd are not as bad as the old ones and in a 4 link im hoping they last longer as it is not a 3 link/radius. Plus more flex in the 4 link them 3 link/ radius arms.
 
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Hey just starting out on a budget. The fenders look awesome. You took a cut your stock fenders?

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Thanks for your input guys I think I have made up my mind or you guys made it up for me but I will spend the little extra for the Rock Krawler lift if I don't I will kick myself for it anyways
 
I have the RK 3.5 mid-arm kit (RKJK35FS) and couldn't be happier. There were some nuances during the install with the instructions but overall super easy to do if you have any mechanical aptitude. If you are going that route be sure to search/ask around about tricks and tips for the install. I know I had a hard time with the front coils and found out later to do a certain side first to make it easier, I did opposite side first :icon_crazy:.
 
3.5

for the RK 3.5 x factor long arm, is the drive shaft needed? i've had some say anything bigger then 3 you will need one. whats the deal
 
I'm still running the stock but have a JR Reel in the garage waiting for me to install. I haven't ripped the boot on the stock one yet but it's just a matter of time since its very close.
 
FYI...4 link ..JK style with track bar will not flex more than a 3 link with track bar . A true 4 link..sure

Final height of any lift is based on actual weight..
 
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theprospect13 said:
for the RK 3.5 x factor long arm, is the drive shaft needed? i've had some say anything bigger then 3 you will need one. whats the deal
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If you have a 2007-11 with an automatic, any lift with 3" or more of lift or, even a 2.5" lift with shocks that are long enough will require you to replace your front drive shaft as it will make contact with your transmission and skid plate and get damaged when articulating. If you have a 2-door, you will want a new rear drive shaft as the CV boots and subsequently, the bearings inside will go bad sooner than later due to the steep angle it will be operating in. If you have a 2012 or newer, any lift greater than 2.5" or shocks that provide more travel than about stock will cause your front drive shaft to make contact with your exhaust cross over and get damaged. Even if you run exhaust spacers, the steeper angle of the engine/tranny will leave your front shaft at an angle that'll cause the CV boot/joint to fail sooner than later. In other words, yes, a new drive shaft is needed with a 3.5" kit.

2007 JKU said:
FYI...4 link ..JK style with track bar will not flex more than a 3 link with track bar .
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FYI, a 3 link with a track bar will not flex more than a 4 link with a track bar if both setups are running the exact same shock length. You simply cannot make a shock extend or collapse any more than it's designed to regardless of your link setup. Believing that you would get more flex is simply wishful thinking. What you will get with a 3 link setup is a greater amount of bind free flex and, there is something to be said about that. Of course with me, I've broken enough control arm mounts on my JK to like redundancy. :yup:

A true 4 link..sure
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What is the difference between a 4 link and a "true 4 link"? :thinking:
Did you mean to say a "triangulated 4 link"? If so, that's a totally different animal.
 
OK Eddie u say if anyone goes bigger then 3.5 lift there going to need new drive shafts? U only talk about an automatic is there a difference between the manual n automatic?

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xtremefx4 said:
OK Eddie u say if anyone goes bigger then 3.5 lift there going to need new drive shafts? U only talk about an automatic is there a difference between the manual n automatic?

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Both auto and manual will need new shafts over 3 inches.
 
xtremefx4 said:
OK Eddie u say if anyone goes bigger then 3.5 lift there going to need new drive shafts? U only talk about an automatic is there a difference between the manual n automatic?

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There is no difference between auto or manual on 2012-up, only on 2007-11. On the later, you don't need a new front shaft on a manual.
 
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