2013 JKU on a car dolly?

Checked that too. Cheapest quote was over $700. Not in the budget. I'll happily pull the rear DS and dolly it for that price.
 
Tonight, I will climb underneath to ensure I have all the correct tools on hand to pull the rear DS. (It's 4.5 hours one way to the closest Penske) I will drive the Jeep there next Friday and pick up the moving truck and dolly, towing the Jeep back home to load my belongings.

Other than a ratchet and proper socket, what else would I need to remove and reinstall at the end of the trip? I saw a YouTube video that there are four shim-like pieces for every two bolts. That video showed the guy marking each shim to make sure they went back on in the exact same place as they came off. Is that necessary to avoid throwing the balance off? Looks like the torque specs are 15 ft lbs. for the t-case and differential sides at http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/jeep-jk-wrangler-torque-settings . Am I reading that right?

If it were you, would you remove the rear driveshaft with all four tires on the ground then drive it up on the dolly in 4HI? Or, would you drive it onto the dolly, then remove the driveshaft? I'll be doing this in the parking lot a long way from home/my tools, so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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As I'm late on reading this post. I see you have found the answer your looking for. When using a 2 wheel dolly it is wise to remove the drive shaft. Putting the transfer case in neutral and having both shafts in while only the rear wheels are spinning, WILL cause damage to the transfer case. It does not apply to all transfer cases, just most of them.
 
NecessaryEvil said:
I would drive your rig onto the dolly, then take the rear drive shaft off.
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NecessaryEvil said:
As I'm late on reading this post. I see you have found the answer your looking for. When using a 2 wheel dolly it is wise to remove the drive shaft. Putting the transfer case in neutral and having both shafts in while only the rear wheels are spinning, WILL cause damage to the transfer case. It does not apply to all transfer cases, just most of them.
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That's the plan, rear driveshaft removal. Thanks.
 
x2 get on the dolly and get it secured.
I'd take a mallet in case you need to tap on the section where it slips into the diff yoke to separate them. my 2010 was tight, not sure if the newer models are designed the same. also use your scissor jack to raise the rear just enough to allow you to rotate the ds to get access to all the bolts, lower it back on the ground once you get the bolts where you want them before crawling back under. happy trails :thumb:
 
Getting the rear ds out of the pinion flange can be tough, esp if it's older and rusted in there. You can insert a punch into the two large holes from the back side and tap it out lightly from behind until you can get screwdriver or pry bar in to get it out. It's tight to do with hammer and punch. The transfer case side is easy but that pinion side can be a bitch. You may want to pull it in your driveway to make sure you have everything you need. Prybar, socket, small wrench (it's 8 or 10 mm 12 pt, can't remember off hand), rubber mallet, punch, etc. Would suck to be 4.5 hours from home and realize you didn't have everything. If you test pull it you can also put some antisieze on the pinion flange so it's easier when at penske.
 
Thanks! Definitely in the back of my mind to do a test removal at home.

The Jeep is a '13 and has been in dry West Texas most of its life. Hopefully not too stuck on there. I hope to have enough time for the test run in a couple days, in between packing the house, working and life...
 
I did the test run today of removing the rear driveshaft. It was time consuming as Eddie said. Everything came apart and went back together without having to use pry bars or hammers. It is nice living in the desert, away from the rust! A special shout out thanks to Eddie for answering a couple other questions via PM today!
 
So, after making a reservation over two weeks ago, re-confirming my reservation twice, Del Rio Penske had no car dollies!!! I was a little panicked being 220 miles/ 4.5 hours from the house and by myself with a Jeep and moving truck. But, in the end the manager gave me a full trailer/car hauler for the same price. She said the weight limit online is wrong and the max is 6,000 lbs. Well, now I know...

Some notes for others...

The JKU barely fits on the full trailer. With 1.5 Spidertrax and 255/80R17 KM2's on stock wheels there is about an inch on each side. The tires barely fit in the straps with 32 psi in them. If there's a time I'm glad I don't have 35's, it's now.
 
USMC Wrangler said:
So, after making a reservation over two weeks ago, re-confirming my reservation twice, Del Rio Penske had no car dollies!!! I was a little panicked being 220 miles/ 4.5 hours from the house and by myself with a Jeep and moving truck. But, in the end the manager gave me a full trailer/car hauler for the same price. She said the weight limit online is wrong and the max is 6,000 lbs. Well, now I know...

Some notes for others...

The JKU barely fits on the full trailer. With 1.5 Spidertrax and 255/80R17 KM2's on stock wheels there is about an inch on each side. The tires barely fit in the straps with 32 psi in them. If there's a time I'm glad I don't have 35's, it's now.
Click to expand...

Well I'm super glad it all worked out for you. Can't trust anyone these days.
 
Sorry , thread revival here.

I have a question on this whole flat tow/ dolly tow debate.
Has anyone here put the hub conversions in their front axles when they upgrade? and if so whats the tcase scinario?

as I see it the pump for the Tcase in on the rear shaft and if people are running the axle disconnects, what the difference then the tow dolly?

is the manual a genaric so no one towed and "awd" and rather than dealing with that issue , it's a blanked statement ?
 
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