2013 jeep 4dr is all over the road on the highway .not even drivable floats all over

Jeep87$ said:
View attachment 174320 this is the kit they recommended
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Hmm ok. Im honestly not to familiar with this kit [emoji28]. I would do as previously stated and put your front axle of jack stands and get a friend to wiggle your steering wheel back and forth and check for anything lose. I would take a serious look at your draglink because as previously stated this is the same exact problem me and hinrichs had. I know even when i had tightened my draglink as much as i could, my jeep would still be all over bc of that off measurement. I just wasn't strong enough ti move it by hand. Another thing i would check if the adjustment sleeve on the draglink. Make sure those bolts are tight and the clamps are spun the correct way. The opening in the two clamps should be lined up with the opening slit in the sleeve itself. Ive heard of peoples steer wheels moving from these clamps not being lined up. Im hoping eddie or someone will chime in that knows a little more then me. Based on what your describing, i think i can narrow your problem down to your drag link. Im just not sure as to what part. Honestly the solution is trial and error. When i bought the synergy sleeve i didn't know it was the problem, it was just a shot in the dark. Same with hinrichs. But once our shot paid off and it fixed our problem, jim fixed his the correct way and i just don't have the money for a new steering knuckle. As for where to go from here, i definitely recommend getting your jeep on jack stands and wiggling things around to see if anything is loose.
 
2013 jeep 4dr is all over the road on the highway .not even drivable floats a...

Ok so after rereading it all I would say is that all you need to do is get it realigned. Your steering geometry should be back at stock regardless of height. As bezerker said you want to be toe in, caster as close to 4.2*, and your steering wheel straight. That's really all you can adjust. You can do the alignment in your driveway at home for free as well.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
 
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Kinda new still but was reading and when you said dealer ovaled out control arm bolt sounded like caster bolts. When you changed the control arms did you/whoever installed still use caster bolts? Sorry if I'm way off on this.
 
I had a 2010 with what sounds like the same problem. Took it to an alignment shop (they didn't specialize in 4wd) and they adjusted the caster. Helped a little but would still be all over the road. I finally tracked the problem down to the track bar.
 
JKBob said:
Kinda new still but was reading and when you said dealer ovaled out control arm bolt sounded like caster bolts. When you changed the control arms did you/whoever installed still use caster bolts? Sorry if I'm way off on this.
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That's actually very possible.
 
I just use the same bolts that came out from the stock control arms I think I just put the stock control arms back in then caster would not change . Going to have lot of used good parts for sale lol
 
Jeep87$ said:
I just use the same bolts that came out from the stock control arms I think I just put the stock control arms back in then caster would not change . Going to have lot of used good parts for sale lol
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The holes that he was referring to could be the caster knockouts. They basically make the hole longer for adjustment. I would keep the arms you have in there for now. Once you lift a vehicle without making proper arm adjustments, your caster will be way off. That's why you have the new arms, to compensate for the angle change after lifting it.
 
Jeep87$ said:
Alright yea the bored out those holes
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That shouldn't cause a problem unless the bolts are loose. Any signs of them moving or sliding? You could always spray some black spray paint there and then drive it and look for any witness marks that the bolts are moving.
 
I would double check the torque on all the bolts, but to me it sounds like a part of your draglink is loose. Those busings work well for the flip, but if the hole is too big, it will seem tight but still be loose. I did the synergy one which is meant for a 7/8 hole, but only works with their drag link due to it being a slightly smaller rod end. I thought it was good, till I got the new knuckle ($44) and did the correct 13/64 or whatever they hole should be. I noticed a huge difference over just doing that. I would also check the end connected to the pitman arm, as it seems there is a lot of grease coming out from the boot?
 
If it is still cam bolt in there, might want to make sure offset washers are still where they should be also.
 
So I am going to head over to the alignment shop now and tell them to put everything back to stock alignment specs and go from there ..any tips
 
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1448073213.521202.jpgWell this is What they did . They said everything looks fine it does feel a lot better still feel when I turn the wheel right at highway speeds and let go of the wheel it loves to pull left ..
 
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