2008 JKU: Another strange noise with video

One more thing. When the lift is done on most Jeeps, the driveshaft is changed simply to get rid of the OEM Rzeppa style joint, that joint doesn't handle tight/steep angles as well. So the ujoint style shaft is way better for the steeper angle, the joints last longer. So just because the drive shaft was updated doesn't mean it is stronger as far as the parts that make it up, but just a different joint style to accommodate for the new angle after the lift.
 
Thanks for the additional background. I was using this Spicer site to figure out exactly which u-joints I need. The front u-joint has all four caps held in place with the outside snap ring, so once I measure it to confirm it's a 1310, I can order that part. The rear u-joint had two caps with outside snap rings (attached to driveshaft) and two caps with no rings I could see (the caps just fell off and I don't see any evidence of an inside snap ring). This u-joint is held to the t-case yoke via 2 u-bolts on the caps that don't appear to have a ring at all. I'm not sure what kind of u-joint this is, since it doesn't appear to be the "outside snap ring/inside snap ring" as listed at the above site. It appears two caps were manufactured to never be removed and they are held to the t-case by the u-bolts. Am I just over-analyzing all of this? :doh:
 
I was able to massage the u-joints out of the driveshaft and measure them with a tape measure since I could not find my calipers. They are definitely 1310 u-joints and I believe both of them are identical (outside clips). Two of the outside clips are not used when using the u-bolts to attach to the t-case yoke. :rolleyes2: The local stores seem to stock MOOG, Napa-brand, Duralast, etc. I was hoping for Dana Spicers but it looks like I'll have to order online.
 
plext0r said:
Funny, I just had the transmission replaced at the local transmission shop and they said the transfer case checked out. :naw: This was after my son went in the lake. How hard is it to replace that seal?

I removed the front driveshaft and drove to the local AutoZone to see if they could help me identify the u joints. No noise on the way there, but they couldn't help me much. I've not been able to remove the u joints from the driveshaft yet; will rent a u joint press tomorrow (should have picked one up but thought I could use the socket trick).

I found some identifying marks on the driveshaft ends and the u joints themselves. One u-joint has 4 external clips and is marked 151 on one side; I cannot read the markings on the other side. The other u joint has 2 external clips and two other caps that came off as soon as I removed the driveshaft. It's also marked 151.

One end of the driveshaft says Napco and it appears a PN 22C357 A0. The other end has DCX8 and ?35821. Here are more pics. I'd appreciate knowing if these are standard 1310 u joints I can replace with Spicer solid ones and if so, exactly which part numbers might I need? The pic of the u joint without a cap has no clips I can see internal or external. Also, I've added some pics of the transfer case yoke and D30. Any tips on things that look wrong would be appreciated. Thanks!

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The 2-28-357 identify it as a 1310 yoke

If it were me, I'd mark where the 2 halves of the shaft come together and then separate them. I would clean the rust off the splines before greasing it up. while they are apart, you'll also be able to check the grease fitting to make sure it allows grease to be pumped in and actually hold it, sometimes the nipple bb that keeps the grease in also gets rusted and will not spring back in place or allow grease to enter. looks like it hasn't been grease in a long time.
 
jeeeep said:
If it were me, I'd mark where the 2 halves of the shaft come together and then separate them. I would clean the rust off the splines before greasing it up. while they are apart, you'll also be able to check the grease fitting to make sure it allows grease to be pumped in and actually hold it, sometimes the nipple bb that keeps the grease in also gets rusted and will not spring back in place or allow grease to enter. looks like it hasn't been grease in a long time.
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Okay, I removed the first seal and starting pounding them apart, but it appears there is loctite or something coating the splines. Should I continue separating them? Should I clean off all the loctite and rust and then grease? Here are two pics showing what I've found:
20151221_185901_23870464446_o.jpg20151221_185908_23600853930_o.jpg
 
plext0r said:
Okay, I removed the first seal and starting pounding them apart, but it appears there is loctite or something coating the splines. Should I continue separating them? Should I clean off all the loctite and rust and then grease? Here are two pics showing what I've found:
View attachment 178978View attachment 178979
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the blue is a Teflon coating put on there too take up some of the space between the splines and help keep them quiet. chances are the splines are rusted to the outer shaft. I would spray some PB Blaster down in there let it sit a few minutes then take a mallet on the outer part of the shaft to break the rust loose.
if you have a driveshaft shop close to you I would take it there and let them rebuild it.
 
jeeeep said:
the blue is a Teflon coating put on there too take up some of the space between the splines and help keep them quiet. chances are the splines are rusted to the outer shaft. I would spray some PB Blaster down in there let it sit a few minutes then take a mallet on the outer part of the shaft to break the rust loose.
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I soaked it with PB blaster last night after reading this and let it sit overnight. The parts I ordered to replace the u-joints and t-case front seal are arriving today and tomorrow so I still have time to get it done right.

if you have a driveshaft shop close to you I would take it there and let them rebuild it.
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I'll have to call around and see what something like this would cost. I've already purchased the parts I need and was hoping to do it myself. Of course I have no way of verifying it's still balanced. :thinking: The thing is that this is my son's Jeep and he's on a shoe-string budget. He pays for the parts and I help with labor while learning about all these maintenance issues. :yup: While I have the driveshaft apart, I could easily replace the grease nipple just to be sure it's working properly. I think the local parts store charges $0.79 for one.
 
plext0r said:
I soaked it with PB blaster last night after reading this and let it sit overnight. The parts I ordered to replace the u-joints and t-case front seal are arriving today and tomorrow so I still have time to get it done right.



I'll have to call around and see what something like this would cost. I've already purchased the parts I need and was hoping to do it myself. Of course I have no way of verifying it's still balanced. :thinking: The thing is that this is my son's Jeep and he's on a shoe-string budget. He pays for the parts and I help with labor while learning about all these maintenance issues. :yup: While I have the driveshaft apart, I could easily replace the grease nipple just to be sure it's working properly. I think the local parts store charges $0.79 for one.
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if you got the DS apart I would continue. you'll know if it's out of balance when you drive with it on and get to speed, the vibration/hum is noticeable

I like to use Green Grease for the splines, it's waterproof, made for high impact and just seems to last much longer than other grease I've tried.
 
After letting the PB blaster soak overnight, I got the DS almost all the way apart and stopped. :D I put Valvoline synthetic grease all over the splines, shoved it back together (with some mild convincing), then used the nipple to grease it some more and put the seal back together. My son and I reinstalled the drive shaft and he went for a drive and felt zero vibrations or noise. I did not replace the t-case front seal as I don't believe it's actually leaking.
 
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