My son attached his GoPro under the JK and grabbed this video today. Noise starts around 13 seconds in. Any ideas what I need to look at? I just replaced the left side exhaust manifold and tightened everything back to torque specs two weeks ago. This sounds like something unrelated but I'm not sure where to look first. I would appreciate any input.
2008 JKU: Another strange noise with video
- Thread starter plext0r
- Start date
WJCO
Meme King
Sounds like a ujoint, or something in transfer case or diff. Not sounding good.
The good thing (in my mind) is I just checked the fault codes and still only have the P0430 from the previous thread. I'm waiting for the light of day to take a closer look. It was also suggested to raise the rear end, put the Jeep in neutral and turn the wheels manually to see if we can locate the source of the noise.
I finally pulled the Jeep into the garage to take a peak at the front driveshaft. I've inherited this driveshaft from the previous owner and I have no idea which one it is; I just know it's not OEM. I'd like to determine if the u-joints near the axle or the transfer case might be the culprit. First thing I plan to do is lift the front axle and turn the wheels to see if I can replicate the noise from the video. I tried reaching up and grabbing the driveshaft but I couldn't get it to clank or feel loose.
Here are some pictures of my front driveshaft. Does anything look out of place or bad?
Here are some pictures of my front driveshaft. Does anything look out of place or bad?
sassmouth
Member
Your front t-case seal is bad for sure. Why don't you disconnect the front ds and/or the rear to determine whether the issue is with one of the ds's or the t-case. To me it sounds like a t-case issue because of the proximity of the sound relative to the GoPro camera.
Funny, I just had the transmission replaced at the local transmission shop and they said the transfer case checked out. :naw: This was after my son went in the lake. How hard is it to replace that seal?
I removed the front driveshaft and drove to the local AutoZone to see if they could help me identify the u joints. No noise on the way there, but they couldn't help me much. I've not been able to remove the u joints from the driveshaft yet; will rent a u joint press tomorrow (should have picked one up but thought I could use the socket trick).
I found some identifying marks on the driveshaft ends and the u joints themselves. One u-joint has 4 external clips and is marked 151 on one side; I cannot read the markings on the other side. The other u joint has 2 external clips and two other caps that came off as soon as I removed the driveshaft. It's also marked 151.
One end of the driveshaft says Napco and it appears a PN 22C357 A0. The other end has DCX8 and ?35821. Here are more pics. I'd appreciate knowing if these are standard 1310 u joints I can replace with Spicer solid ones and if so, exactly which part numbers might I need? The pic of the u joint without a cap has no clips I can see internal or external. Also, I've added some pics of the transfer case yoke and D30. Any tips on things that look wrong would be appreciated. Thanks!
WJCO
Meme King
Is this for real? Look at your first photo. This will cause a noise and a problem. Take the cap across from it off and look at the difference.
Yes, it's for real. Please remember I'm learning how to work on a vehicle using this Jeep; this is the first vehicle I've not taken to the shop to get a mechanic to work on it. I had no idea the u joints were in such bad shape when I bought it this past June. That cap came off and all the bearings fell out; there was zero grease in there. It's all rusted. Under the other cap was the same.
I plan to replace it with Spicer non-greasable u-joints if I can determine the exact part numbers to order. It appears replacing the t-case front seal is not a huge deal from a quick search I performed. Might as well get my hands dirty with that too while the driveshaft is off.
WJCO
Meme King
Sorry dude. I've had 3 beers and that picture hit me like Janet Reno in a nightie. Yes, that is most likely your problem. Start there no matter what. Since you have the shaft off, might as well replace all the ujoints. There are pros and cons to greaseable or non-greaseable. Either way, you'll be fine. Yep, do the tcase seal. Then when back together, check your tcase for noise. Make sure your tcase fluid is full and not water contaminated too since you said earlier it was driven into a lake. Truthfully if the noise is intermittent, there is less of a chance that it's your tcase.
Thanks for that horrible mental image. I'm worried about the spline part of the drive shaft. There is a grease nib that I imagine has never been used. Should I be able to pull the drive shaft into two pieces? Should I just pump it up with grease until it starts oozing out where the splines are?
WJCO
Meme King
Put grease in the fitting or on the splines, but yes that is normal. The male part of the drive shaft should move in and out. As you go over bumps and your axles get closer to the chassis when the springs compress, the driveshaft has to shorten and adjust its length. That is a slip joint and that's what it is designed to do. Now if you grab each part firmly and rotate them and feel rotational play, that is a different issue, it still won't cause that noise you had earlier though. It there is heavy spline wear, you will get a quick clunk when putting vehicle into drive and reverse. I won't say it's normal, but it's not something to worry about unless it is really bad.
Jiffy05
New member
No need to measure them. Just get the spicer u-joints for the JK wrangler.
Go to amazon and this is what I found Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit. If I am wrong someone correct me as I don't have a JK.
This is not a OEM driveshaft; it was replaced by the previous owner when he installed the 4"+ lift. That's why I'm being cautious before I order the u-joints. Thanks.
WJCO
Meme King
Spicer is good. I would imagine it's a 1310 type. You could use a caliper to be safe. You said earlier it wasn't the stock shaft right? It could be a 1330 or a 1350 too. My best guess is 1310, next guess would be 1330. It would be best to measure just to be safe.
Jiffy05
New member
Oh if you said that earlier I did not read that. You could take them out and measure the the cap diameter.
WJCO
Meme King
This may help. Chance truly are you have 1310s.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/
Jiffy05
New member
I was just about to post up the sizes.