1994 YJ Project

That's funny. When I got my 95', it didn't even have an air box. The guy accidentally ran over it in his yard and never cared to replace it. This was also his DD. [emoji47]
 
I forgot to update on where we left off last night. Radiator, AC compressor, and water pump were pulled. I ended up sanding and painting the headlight surrounds and the thermostat housing black yesterday while my father in law was working in the engine compartment. We did some general cleaning of the front end and engine to get rid of all the mud so that I wouldn't be eating shit while I was under it working over the next few months. Here are a few pics.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1450716089.683863.jpgImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1450716118.669226.jpg

The goal for after work today is to get the seats pulled and interior cleaned out and ready for sanding. He wants to go the rhinoline route. If the daylight plays in our favor, we may go ahead and pull the dash so we can replace the heater core and get rid of the bypass that the original owner did. Not sure why you wouldn't just replace it instead of taking the time to bypass it, but to each their own I guess.
 
I'm a little jealous you have a 4.0. My 2.5 gets the job done but it would be a nice to have a little more. I have a build thread on here for mine "Secondhand YJ Build".
 
I'm a little jealous you have a 4.0. My 2.5 gets the job done but it would be a nice to have a little more. I have a build thread on here for mine "Secondhand YJ Build".

Just read through your whole thread. I can't believe the price you got on that 8.8. After talking for a bit last night, I think this is the route he wants to go. The real questions is do you go spring over, just buy a bolt on lift, or piece together a frankenlift. I've had a couple of different ideas thrown at me from a few people. Direct bolt on seems to be the easiest way, but my boss also offered up the idea of getting some moderate lift shackles and a helper spring with longer U-bolts, and add a 1 to 1.5" BL to open up the door for a tummy tuck. From what I understand, this involves getting some motor mount spacers and transmission spacers to move everything up. I've got to sit down tonight and make some excel spreadsheets to price out all three options as well as put together the growing list of general TLC parts that are quickly adding up. Any input on your end or things you would change on your YJ as far as suspension?
 
So I've debated what my path forward on my suspension for the last year and I've decided to keep it simple. Doing a spring over is not as cheap and easy as you might think to do it right. You would need to get a SYE and modify the steering to get the correct geometry back. Plus it's a lot of stress on the stock springs to be placed on top. You could just buy springs and a kit but they are fairly expensive. Or make a bastard spring pack by doing some research on pirate4x4. I was surprised how well the SUA suspension performed. There's no axle wrap like a SOA would have the steering geometry is close to stock. Also you keep a low COG. Plus it's a lot cheaper to trim sheet metal. Someday I may put 1 ton axles underneath and do a SOA but I want to do it the right way and not half ass it. I recommend wheeling the jeep and upgrade as needed. The 4" lift and 33s worked great. Next weekend I will be going to see how 35s do. I did have to trim a little. 4wheeler magazine has a good write up on SOA vs SUA. Hope this helps. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1450738602.435613.jpg
 
Interior was stripped today, except for the dash and seat belts. The seat belts take a huge torx bit that I can't seem to find in my tool box (probably because I've let people borrow my stuff over the years). The exterior was waterproofed with some thick plastic and duct tape in prep for tonight and tomorrow's rain[emoji23]. We will probably tackle pulling the dash, putting in the new heater core, and starting to sand the interior in prep for rhinoline tomorrow. On a side note, does anyone have a pic of the 4.0 that did not come with an AC option. We are trying to figure out if Jeep made different mounting brackets for the AC and alternator between the AC option and non AC option, so that we can confirm if the serpentine belt from the non AC option will work if he goes out and gets one. This YJ will no longer be running AC.
 
So I've debated what my path forward on my suspension for the last year and I've decided to keep it simple. Doing a spring over is not as cheap and easy as you might think to do it right. You would need to get a SYE and modify the steering to get the correct geometry back. Plus it's a lot of stress on the stock springs to be placed on top. You could just buy springs and a kit but they are fairly expensive. Or make a bastard spring pack by doing some research on pirate4x4. I was surprised how well the SUA suspension performed. There's no axle wrap like a SOA would have the steering geometry is close to stock. Also you keep a low COG. Plus it's a lot cheaper to trim sheet metal. Someday I may put 1 ton axles underneath and do a SOA but I want to do it the right way and not half ass it. I recommend wheeling the jeep and upgrade as needed. The 4" lift and 33s worked great. Next weekend I will be going to see how 35s do. I did have to trim a little. 4wheeler magazine has a good write up on SOA vs SUA. Hope this helps.

The research I have been doing has noted axle wrap as the most common side effect to a spring over set up not done correctly. I think buying a complete lift or piecing together a frankenlift and staying in with the original spring under set up is going to be the most cost effective and easiest approach at this point. My father in law is set on 35's. I've shown him some pics of your set up and the amount of trimming that is going to have to be done to run them and he said he is ok with it. We will see if he is singing the same tune when I break out the saw zall and grinder. [emoji23]
 
The research I have been doing has noted axle wrap as the most common side effect to a spring over set up not done correctly. I think buying a complete lift or piecing together a frankenlift and staying in with the original spring under set up is going to be the most cost effective and easiest approach at this point. My father in law is set on 35's. I've shown him some pics of your set up and the amount of trimming that is going to have to be done to run them and he said he is ok with it. We will see if he is singing the same tune when I break out the saw zall and grinder. [emoji23]

Honestly with leaf springs I dont think your going to avoid axle wrap no matter how its mounted all though Im sure probably things can help it. I have a traction bar on the rear of mine. Ive never had problem with it wrapping all though the driveshaft will bind lol. The front wraps like a mofo though.
 
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1451165791.225765.jpg Interior is stripped.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1451165817.861222.jpg Sanding has started.
I will post some more pics once we get further on it. The roll cage is in pristine condition. That will stay red, but everything else will be rhino lined.
 
I forgot to update on where we left off last night. Radiator, AC compressor, and water pump were pulled. I ended up sanding and painting the headlight surrounds and the thermostat housing black yesterday while my father in law was working in the engine compartment. We did some general cleaning of the front end and engine to get rid of all the mud so that I wouldn't be eating shit while I was under it working over the next few months. Here are a few pics.
View attachment 178893View attachment 178894

The goal for after work today is to get the seats pulled and interior cleaned out and ready for sanding. He wants to go the rhinoline route. If the daylight plays in our favor, we may go ahead and pull the dash so we can replace the heater core and get rid of the bypass that the original owner did. Not sure why you wouldn't just replace it instead of taking the time to bypass it, but to each their own I guess.

Just a suggestion, since I know the rig is sitting outside, I would be sure to put some sort of cap/cover over holes that enter the engine. Would hate to see some dirt or creature get in there and cause all kinds of issues. Also, while we haven't had a cold spell lately, definitely need to look into ensuring that it is freeze-proof soon. Otherwise you'll be replacing a block too.
 
Just a suggestion, since I know the rig is sitting outside, I would be sure to put some sort of cap/cover over holes that enter the engine. Would hate to see some dirt or creature get in there and cause all kinds of issues. Also, while we haven't had a cold spell lately, definitely need to look into ensuring that it is freeze-proof soon. Otherwise you'll be replacing a block too.

No water in block, radiator and all plumbing associated with it is gone, and the block is closed up.
 
No water in block, radiator and all plumbing associated with it is gone, and the block is closed up.

Good deal. I've seen quite a few blocks that people thought were completely drained and end up splitting pretty bad, so figured I'd make sure your were good. :thumb:
 
Yea, we made sure to get everything out and waterproofed before we had those freezing temps nights about two weeks. I guess I need to be a little more thorough on my shitty ass updates. BTW, we put down a can of rustoleum bedliner on the back. I just went outside and checked it and it came out pretty nice. I'm thinking 2 or 3 more coats. You're welcome to come over and check her out whenever you want.
 
Yea, we made sure to get everything out and waterproofed before we had those freezing temps nights about two weeks. I guess I need to be a little more thorough on my shitty ass updates. BTW, we put down a can of rustoleum bedliner on the back. I just went outside and checked it and it came out pretty nice. I'm thinking 2 or 3 more coats. You're welcome to come over and check her out whenever you want.

I actually drove by and saw you guys out there today. Had we not been on our way to meet my parents for dinner, I would have stopped. I'll definitely get over there to wrench soon!
 
It's been awhile since I have updated, but I feel like we reached a milestone tonight that is worth updating. About two weeks ago, we finished putting all new parts on anything that could be bolted to the block or is completely separate from the block, minus wiring and electrical stuff. New radiator, all hoses, heater core, distributor, wires, plugs, alternator, thermostat, water pump, pulleys, belt, etc. We cranked it and let it run for awhile and noticed that the overheating problem was gone, but it was blowing bluish smoke. My father in law made the call to go ahead and pull the motor and just have it rebuilt. It will have a mild cam put in(not sure on what he is going to choose, but will update this) and should be back within 2 weeks of being dropped off. Well, it is finally out. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1454723358.207498.jpgImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1454723371.806618.jpgImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1454723389.042353.jpg.
He should be dropping it off on Monday and we will pick up a few misc. parts in the meantime. This has set back the suspension portion of the build, but it is what it is and in the end he will have a basically brand new Jeep mechanical wise. On a side note, the entire interior has been rhino lined and looks awesome. I'll take some pics tomorrow in the daylight of the interior.
 
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