18 JK brake problem

BOWEN

New member
Hello friends has anyone ever:

Changed brake pads and lost the pedal?

Is there a thread that talks about this I searched and can’t find one?

And last anyone every successfully deleted or bypassed the ABS?

Dynatrac 60s Hemi 6.4 on 40s just for info.
 
Hello friends has anyone ever:

Changed brake pads and lost the pedal?

Is there a thread that talks about this I searched and can’t find one?

And last anyone every successfully deleted or bypassed the ABS?

Dynatrac 60s Hemi 6.4 on 40s just for info.
When you put new pads on, did you open the bleeder when you pushed the caliper pistons in? If not, you may have pushed dirty fluid through master cylinder or abs hcu. I did that once as a tech many years ago and it was quite expensive for the shop I worked at.

Also, if you opened system anywhere, air may have entered.
 
No I sure didn’t, went the old school way. What was the fix?
if you pumped the brakes, you introduced air, I did this on my 2010 JK.

You need to trigger the ABS, I took what I needed to bleed the brakes, found a stretch of road with no traffic where I could get up to 40mph, slam on the brakes to trigger the ABS, filled the reservoir, opened the brake line, furthest etc.. procedure without pumping the brake, let it drain until no bubbles, and repeat.

Or, buy something like the Autel Maxicheck with ABS brake bleed, much easier than the method above (I've done both).
 
Low soft pedal or no pedal at all? Did you do one corner at a time or were both calipers off the rotors at the same time? Can you scan bleed it?
 
I tried the scan bleed whit the scanner I have it only does the right side, but it did activate the abs module. I replaced the master and have bleed the brakes like crazy!
It’s like the passenger side is not getting fluid!
 
I tried the scan bleed whit the scanner I have it only does the right side, but it did activate the abs module. I replaced the master and have bleed the brakes like crazy!
It’s like the passenger side is not getting fluid!
Have someone slowly push the pedal down while you open the R.R. Bleeder. Make sure they understand not to let the pedal back up until you close the bleeder. Then pump and bleed like normal. Start at the R.R. And do all 4 in order R.R. L.R. R.F. L.F. Then try the scan bleed again. If you don’t already have one. Make a jug out of a clear plastic water bottle with a tube that fits on the bleeder on one end and put the other end through a hole in the cap. Less mess and you’ll be able to see the bubbles in the tube as the fluid passes through it and into the bottle.
 
I've been troubleshooting my own brakes. Before using a Snap-On scanner, the instructions tell you to bleed the brakes mechanically before using the scanner to perform the ABS bleed. The scanner also instructs you to press and hold the brake pedal while performing the ABS pump bleed procedure. Only the right side was bled while bleeding the system with the scanner.

My Wrangler is a 2012 Rubicon with factory axles.
 
This is all good info. I recently replaced my soft brake lines with braided lines then did a vacuum brake bleed and I think the pedal got softer.
 
Update: first of thanks for all the replies!
Finally got it fixed, I believe like so many stated when I pressed the caliber back in I trashed the master.
I bought the best pressure bleeding tool I could find and bleed the fluid till all was new.
Now the brakes were better but still spongy even after the abs bleed!
Jeeep thank you I cranked the hemi up in a gravel parking lot and slammed the break pedal to the floor activated the abs!
Did this several times then rebleed the brakes and presto brakes are back better than before!
Thanks Wayalifers!!!
 
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