1310 or 1350 shafts?

StrizzyChris said:
Off topic, but I just saw where you're from....Now I must yell the obligatory OH!
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In the spirit of your typical video responses ;)


Yea, I saw you were from-round-here. I usually work out of my home but my the "official" office is a little south of Dayton. I live about 10 miles north of Wilmington. (You know the slimy stuff I am wheeling in around the river) I like to drive out to PA (Rausch) and IN (Badlands) too.
 
jnabird333 said:
Getting ready to order drive-shafts in prep for the lift. I've been wavering on 1310 or 1350 joints.

I will be running 35s (Likely Goodyear MT/R-K) I have also kicked the idea around of a smaller 37 like the BGF KM2 but am avoiding this as I don't really want to re-gear (yet) and I feel the 37s will stretch my 4.10s a little more than I like.

The thing that has me kicking the 1350s around is my terrain. While I prefer a slow crawl, the Ohio River Valley often throws long slimy hill climbs that require a fair amount of wheel speed. These climbs usually have embedded rocks and/or tree stumps that can give you "sudden" traction. Twice this year I watched 1310 joints fail on one of these climbs, (Granted they were cheap joints and not quality ones.)

I drive my rig to and from the trail (13' JKUR) and a trailer & tow-rig is WAY down the road.

I read Eddie's Coast 1310 Jointed Shaft install and I know he feels the 1310s are okay, for up to 37s, but there really wasn't much talk about wheeling techniques and I am at the edge in size????

What are your thoughts?
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1350 if you like to carry all kinds of different spares (axle shafts front and rear, front u joints and 1350 joints) 1310 if you want to have an easy part to replace that will be a known weak point.
 
jk noob said:
1350 if you like to carry all kinds of different spares (axle shafts front and rear, front u joints and 1350 joints) 1310 if you want to have an easy part to replace that will be a known weak point.
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:cheesy: Oh please, you make it sound like your Jeep will self-destruct with one.
 
wayoflife said:
The one u-joint you will find on a factory front shaft is actually a 1330. While it will get the job done and address clearance issues
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Eddie,

Let's say my front drive shaft broke (07 JK) and I want use a 12+ front drive shaft for a replacement, can this be done?
If so, do you any any advantage/disadvantage?

As far as I understand it looks like the 12+ front drive shaft joint sits a tad lower than the 07, not sure if it's longer and won't fit.. :confused:
 
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QRS said:
Eddie,

Let's say my front drive shaft broke (07 JK) and I want use a 12+ front drive shaft for a replacement, can this be done?
If so, do you any any advantage/disadvantage?

As far as I understand it looks like the 12+ front drive shaft joint sits a tad lower than the 07, not sure if it's longer and won't fit.. :confused:
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Yes, it will fit and you should be able to run it without any problems.
 
QRS said:
Eddie,

Let's say my front drive shaft broke (07 JK) and I want use a 12+ front drive shaft for a replacement, can this be done?
If so, do you any any advantage/disadvantage?

As far as I understand it looks like the 12+ front drive shaft joint sits a tad lower than the 07, not sure if it's longer and won't fit.. :confused:
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I believe they are slightly different lengths but will work.
 
I appreciate all the responses too, although I must admit I'm still a little confused about which way to go... I like the idea of building for the future and making a quality purchase once, but also am a fan of the calibrated failure point...
 
Can you run a 1350 on a D30? Reason I am asking is, I have lifted my 11 JK Sport to slightly above 3.5" and I am not seeing any 1350s for a D30 only D44...
 
Jeeper714 said:
Can you run a 1350 on a D30? Reason I am asking is, I have lifted my 11 JK Sport to slightly above 3.5" and I am not seeing any 1350s for a D30 only D44...
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You would need to have a 1350 yoke to make it work and I don't think one is offered for a Dana 30.

Jiffy05 said:
Tom Wood's has a formula to help determine what you should go with.
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We're talking about JK's here and you don't need a formula to figure things out. Tom Woods just likes to get people thinking one is needed so that they can feel like they're getting something special from him other than cheap Chinese u-joints.
 
wayoflife said:
You would need to have a 1350 yoke to make it work and I don't think one is offered for a Dana 30.
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I actually just spoke to J.E. Reel directly because I received my 1350 without the front yoke and they told me its the same yoke for Dana 30s and 44s. So a 1350 is good to go on a 30 :thumbup:

The Force will be with you.... always
 
Aeraun said:
I actually just spoke to J.E. Reel directly because I received my 1350 without the front yoke and they told me its the same yoke for Dana 30s and 44s. So a 1350 is good to go on a 30 :thumbup:

The Force will be with you.... always
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You know, I wasn't sure on this but glad to know now. Thanks for posting the follow up.
 
wayoflife said:
You know, I wasn't sure on this but glad to know now. Thanks for posting the follow up.
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Hey, I'm just glad I could finally give back some knowledge instead of asking all the noob questions :beer:

The Force will be with you.... always
 
Aeraun said:
I actually just spoke to J.E. Reel directly because I received my 1350 without the front yoke and they told me its the same yoke for Dana 30s and 44s. So a 1350 is good to go on a 30 :thumbup:

The Force will be with you.... always
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The force is strong with this one.


Sent from my phone?
 
Aeraun said:
Hey, I'm just glad I could finally give back some knowledge instead of asking all the noob questions :beer:

The Force will be with you.... always
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Awwwwww so cute:blush: Rocco popped his knowledge helping cherry:clap2: im just glad I was here to share it with you Rocco
 
I went with the 1310 because it is easy enough and cheap enough to replace a u-joint. You can carry a spare for $30. Changing a pinion or ring gear on the trail isn't something I am prepared for.
 
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