Wheel stud replacement

Y

YahooEarth

New member
Hi,

I'm in the process of replacing a wheel stud that broke off at some point. But for the life of me I cannot get the new stud to 'bite' or seat properly.

Does anyone have any tips????

Cheers,

Michael
 
First off, how the hell did you break a stud? :crazyeyes:

Regarding your question, you can't get it to bite as in it's too loose or too tight? Are you sure you have the right size stud?
 
Just the tip was broken off, losing maybe 1/3 of the threads. Found it when I put new gorilla lug nuts on. I guess it was like that when I purchased the jeep. And I didn't feel like waiting for the dealer to take care of it. How hard could it be, right!

The part that seats in the hole seems just a touch big. But comparing to the old stud it looks to be the proper size. And I'm quite confident it is the correct stud.
 
YahooEarth said:
Just the tip was broken off, losing maybe 1/3 of the threads. Found it when I put new gorilla lug nuts on. I guess it was like that when I purchased the jeep. And I didn't feel like waiting for the dealer to take care of it. How hard could it be, right!

The part that seats in the hole seems just a touch big. But comparing to the old stud it looks to be the proper size. And I'm quite confident it is the correct stud.
Click to expand...

Are the teeth of the new stud at least catching? What are you doing/using to install it?
 
The teeth will just barely get into the hole before I can't push it any further, but it doesn't catch so it just free spins. I have an open ended lug nut that I'm using, but will be including some washers when I get back to it later.

Should the stud just easily slide into the grooves?
 
YahooEarth said:
The teeth will just barely get into the hole before I can't push it any further, but it doesn't catch so it just free spins. I have an open ended lug nut that I'm using, but will be including some washers when I get back to it later.

Should the stud just easily slide into the grooves?
Click to expand...

No, they will not. I would try to align the teeth and then give it a tap with a hammer to help get it set before wrenching the nut to pull it through.
 
I've tried that, to a fashion, but maybe there is a better way. You can't exactly get a hammer behind the stud. I have slid a wrench behind the stud and tried to get leverage, but to no avail.



Do I need to remove more of the assembly to help?
 
If you have a large c clamp and a deep well socket you can make a press to get it started. You may need to take the brake shoe off though.
 
Sorry, I had assumed that you were just working with the shaft and not the e-brakes/dust shield. It'll help a lot to remove them.
 
NHAkita said:
If you have a large c clamp and a deep well socket you can make a press to get it started. You may need to take the brake shoe off though.
Click to expand...

I would try this^

Also, have you tried putting some vise grips on the back part of the stud while tightening it?
 
YahooEarth said:
I've tried that, to a fashion, but maybe there is a better way. You can't exactly get a hammer behind the stud. I have slid a wrench behind the stud and tried to get leverage, but to no avail.



Do I need to remove more of the assembly to help?
Click to expand...

Just looked at the pic better! You have to use washers!! The threads are not deep enough to pass the shoulder of the bolt through the axle!
 
David1tontj said:
Just looked at the pic better! You have to use washers!! The threads are not deep enough to pass the shoulder of the bolt through the axle!
Click to expand...

Just look at the other studs and It will make sense. Or even try just putting the wheel on as a spacer, tighten it up and see if ot takes
 
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YahooEarth said:
I've tried that, to a fashion, but maybe there is a better way. You can't exactly get a hammer behind the stud. I have slid a wrench behind the stud and tried to get leverage, but to no avail

Do I need to remove more of the assembly to help?
Click to expand...


I hope I was clear enough. Your stud is spinning because the nut has run out of threads on the bolt. If you add washers or wen the wheel, it should work.
 
The C clamp trick works but to make it a bit easier, freeze the wheel stud a couple hours before you do the work. By freezing the stud the metal actually shrinks a little making the replacement a much easier fit. liquid wrench also works great!!!
 
David1tontj said:
Just looked at the pic better! You have to use washers!! The threads are not deep enough to pass the shoulder of the bolt through the axle!
Click to expand...

:cheesy: Well that can't help

JeepFan said:
The C clamp trick works but to make it a bit easier, freeze the wheel stud a couple hours before you do the work. By freezing the stud the metal actually shrinks a little making the replacement a much easier fit. liquid wrench also works great!!!
Click to expand...

Never had to use a freezer but I could totally see how that would help.
 
YahooEarth said:
I've tried that, to a fashion, but maybe there is a better way. You can't exactly get a hammer behind the stud. I have slid a wrench behind the stud and tried to get leverage, but to no avail.



Do I need to remove more of the assembly to help?
Click to expand...

as mentioned, freeze the bolt for a couple of hours, it'll make it easier to help align the grooves made from the removed bolt. While the new bolt is getting a freeze, get some washers that will fit one of the existing studs just a little loose and stack them until they are above the shoulder, that's how many washers you need on the replacement stud so you can actually pull it through with the reversed nut as you have shown.

Shouldn't take much force to get them on this way. I replaced 2 studs and our Sequoia it took all of 5 minutes by freezing them.
 
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