jeeeep
Hooked
making progress!
take it out and slam on the brakes to activate the ABS, take some fluid to add to the reservoir if it drops any then do it again.
12' Gecko Build
- Thread starter desertrunner
- Start date
take it out and slam on the brakes to activate the ABS, take some fluid to add to the reservoir if it drops any then do it again.
Launch
Active Member
Just make sure you have a tailgate when you do it. You can tell the officer you were just testing his reaction time. Lol
jeeeep
Hooked
hopefully do it on a road with little to no traffic lol
desertrunner
Hooked
Dont you have to immediately bleed the calipers after doing that?
jeeeep
Hooked
I didn't on my JKU, I could hear a pump running, took it on a side road, slammed on the brakes to activate the ABS and it worked.
about a week later I did a motive brake bleed with the diagnostic tool ABS bleed, and they firmed right up.
Another thing, sitting dry for that long may have affected the master and there's a chance it needs replacing
Ddays
Hooked
When I did mine I did add the J8 booster. Not sure how the pedal would be affected without it, but I have to say my brakes aren't super firm at the top 1/3rd of the pedal travel, but after that they are. I'm still perplexed by the wheel weights hitting your calipers. Did they change rotor size I wonder? There's roughly 1-1/2" between the wheel & rotor on mine
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
The brakes on my Dynatrac 60/80 never felt as stiff as stock. I think that’s a thing. They always stopped but it’s basically impossible to lock them up like stock. It takes some getting used to.
Ddays
Hooked
Yep - my Dynatrac set was the same thing. Also took some time getting used to being in 4lo on an edge of a dropoff or going over the dropoff. It'll stop but you just don't get the warm fuzzies doing it. First couple times you gotta engage the ass brakes on the seat to get em to work right.
desertrunner
Hooked
Mine do look at little bigger than that. Not sure if they changed rotor sizes or not.
I also went 72" axles and went with 17" wheels with 4.25" backpacking. Not sure what size wheels you are running
desertrunner
Hooked
Yeah I figured with the dual piston and larger rotor that they aren't going to feel like stock. But I did expect them to feel similar firmness just to need more leg to stop.
I drove it out to a little dune dirt playground out by my house today and slammed on the brakes a good 10 times and it does stop hard on the dirt. Just doesn't really have a ton of pressure until right before the floor. I've also never driven a 1 ton swapped jeep before this so maybe it just is what it is and ill get used to it.
After the test drive I ran a few more JScan ABS bleeds and I did see some air come out, so idk. They work enough to drive around so maybe driving it and keep running the bleed it will all work its way out eventually
jeeeep
Hooked
keep working the air out, it can be a real PIA
E-brake work well?
Ddays
Hooked
I was 72" as well - needed space to outboard the coilovers. I'm running the same basic wheel size - 17x9 . Back spacing shouldn't matter.
I just looked on the site and the rotors are listed at 13.25" F&R so unless those weights were really stacked something stupid they should clear with ease. Or you got bigger rotors
desertrunner
Hooked
Forgot the picture my B, there definitely should be enough space in there but the weights were stacked so....
Idk I also drove it up to 55 today and not a single vibe so not sure why that much weight was on there
desertrunner
Hooked
E brake doesn't hold for shit. But I also haven't tried to adjust it yet, I've been working on the actual brakes first.
I also have seem some good line lock set ups that I may go that route instead
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
The more you describe it I think it is the same as when I first drove a Jeep with one tons. It doesn’t feel right.
desertrunner
Hooked
The best way i can describe it from today's drive is the first half is pretty much no effort. Then it starts to pick up some firmness like you would feel with normal light braking and it stays light braking feel all the way up to about 90% pedal then the last 10% feels like mod braking. I can still push it to the floor without having to really push my back into the seat.
If I hit a yellow that I had to quickly stop at id have to go right to 90% pedal to get it stopped.
I've never driven another one so maybe thats just what it is but I would imagine the pedal should still feel relatively stock but just need to push harder than normal to get it stopped. Where I feel like I'm not really getting anything legit firm until 90%
desertrunner
Hooked
The only other thing I've read to do that i haven't tried yet is below from another random FB group. I feel hesitant to try that and risk getting more air into the ABS but it seemed to work for this dude to get a fairly close to stock pedal feel. Some say a dealership bleed helped them but truthfully albuquerque is like #1 in the nation on getting cars stolen and car shops even dealerships have been known to copy keys while doing repairs then your car is gone a week later
"Update. I had a buddy that is very familiar with the JK ABS system help me bleed them out.
2 people
Engine running
Pump 3 - 5x and hold
Crack a line open on the ABS pump.
Repeat for each line till the fluid is clear.
Proceed to do the same for the each wheel caliper starting with the furthest caliper.
And of course keep the resevoir full."
"Update. I had a buddy that is very familiar with the JK ABS system help me bleed them out.
2 people
Engine running
Pump 3 - 5x and hold
Crack a line open on the ABS pump.
Repeat for each line till the fluid is clear.
Proceed to do the same for the each wheel caliper starting with the furthest caliper.
And of course keep the resevoir full."
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Ship it out to me and I’ll test it then you can pick it up.
desertrunner
Hooked
your welcome to come drive it anytime. Hit me up if your ever in ABQ
jeeeep
Hooked
dual piston? is has 2 bleeder screws?
are you bleeding them both?