Wrangler JK wandering problems

[giacomo.m]

Hi all,

Jk 2012 2.8 CRD with O.M.E 2,5" lift kit and the problem that once you hit dip or a bump at 70/80 Km/h and likes to pull to the right or left ( more to the left )
the jeep has the following characteristics :
- new 35"tyres
- new ultimate dana 44 front axle
- brand new Synergy ball joints
- Teraflex front monster Track Bar
- Steer Smarts No drill top mount steering linkage kit
- RS7405 Rancho steering stabilizer
- Caster : 3,01°/3,30°
- 1/8" toe in

will it be difficult to solve the problem ?
thank you

Giacomo

 

[WJCO]

Hi all,

Jk 2012 2.8 CRD with O.M.E 2,5" lift kit and the problem that once you hit dip or a bump at 70/80 Km/h and likes to pull to the right or left ( more to the left )
the jeep has the following characteristics :
- new 35"tyres
- new ultimate dana 44 front axle
- brand new Synergy ball joints
- Teraflex front monster Track Bar
- Steer Smarts No drill top mount steering linkage kit
- RS7405 Rancho steering stabilizer
- Caster : 3,01°/3,30°
- 1/8" toe in

will it be difficult to solve the problem ?
thank you

Giacomo

Your caster needs to be a little over 4 degrees. If you don't already have them, get some front lower adjustable arms and lengthen them a little. Both lower arms need to be the same length. This thread should help:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...nt-End-Alignment?p=42391&viewfull=1#post42391

Also, if you're having handling issues while hitting bumps, you could be experiencing a little 'bump steer' from your drag link and track bar not being parallel with each other. When looking at them, they should be pretty much parallel to each other.

 

[giacomo.m]

Thank WJCO for answer

I assure you it's not a little " bump steer " but a loss of trajectory,furthemore the drag link and track bart hey are perfectly parallel
to bring the caster over 4 degree is not better to fit the front upper adjustable arms ?

Giacomo

 

[WJCO]

Thank WJCO for answer

I assure you it's not a little " bump steer " but a loss of trajectory,furthemore the drag link and track bart hey are perfectly parallel
to bring the caster over 4 degree is not better to fit the front upper adjustable arms ?

Giacomo

The lower ones are easier to get to. At 2.5 inches of lift, it shouldn't take much.

Theoretically, the lower arms set your axle centered in the wheelwell and then the uppers are adjusted to set caster. But typically, you can leave the uppers alone and just make the lower ones longer to achieve the same thing.

 

[giacomo.m]

The lower ones are easier to get to. At 2.5 inches of lift, it shouldn't take much.

Theoretically, the lower arms set your axle centered in the wheelwell and then the uppers are adjusted to set caster. But typically, you can leave the uppers alone and just make the lower ones longer to achieve the same thing.

I hope that with the caster adjustment the problem is solved
thank you

Giacomo

 

[MDK210]

I watched a video awhile back that showed a Dynatrac PR front axle and stated it has more built in caster than the stock axle. The stock is supposedly 6° of separation so if you measure at the pinion and top ball joint of the “C” they should add up to 6°. However the video stated the PR (didn’t say 44 or 60) has 10° of separation I think...just an FYI.

I’m still researching on what caster is appropriate. Most people state 4° while others run more than that.

 

[WJCO]

I watched a video awhile back that showed a Dynatrac PR front axle and stated it has more built in caster than the stock axle. The stock is supposedly 6° of separation so if you measure at the pinion and top ball joint of the “C” they should add up to 6°. However the video stated the PR (didn’t say 44 or 60) has 10° of separation I think...just an FYI.

I’m still researching on what caster is appropriate. Most people state 4° while others run more than that.

The more the better. However on a stock axle, that introduces vibrations because it makes the pinion angle out of whack. Dynatrac welds brackets in such a way where the caster can be set at 6 with a near perfect pinion angle. On a factory axle, that won't happen.

 

[MDK210]

I just measured mine and my buddies Jeep. We are both running aftermarket front shafts and stock axles, the pinion angle is 0° and 10° on the balljoint so that means we’re running 10° caster??? That doesn’t seem right.

 

[fiend]

I watched a video awhile back that showed a Dynatrac PR front axle and stated it has more built in caster than the stock axle. The stock is supposedly 6° of separation so if you measure at the pinion and top ball joint of the “C” they should add up to 6°. However the video stated the PR (didn’t say 44 or 60) has 10° of separation I think...just an FYI.

I’m still researching on what caster is appropriate. Most people state 4° while others run more than that.

The standard PR44 has six degrees of separation, meaning you can get 4 degrees of caster and have your pinion point up 2 degrees.

The PR44 Unlimited has 10 degrees, meaning you have 4 more degrees to work with. For example, 5 degrees caster, 5 degrees at the pinion. This is helpful if you have a lifted Jeep.

https://www.dynatrac.com/downloads/ProRock FAQ_revK.pdf

 

[WJCO]

I just measured mine and my buddies Jeep. We are both running aftermarket front shafts and stock axles, the pinion angle is 0° and 10° on the balljoint so that means we’re running 10° caster??? That doesn’t seem right.

That doesn't seem right. 10 degrees caster would make your steering wheel return to center like a rubber band. Keep in mind what your ground is measuring at as well.

.......

 

[MDK210]

Gotcha, my alignment printout is a little over 4° caster so I know I’m “good” but apparently I can’t determine this myself. Maybe top of the ball joint isn’t the best place...