Wiring an aux (anything)

Kalums

Kalums

New member
Ok so here is a question... With out using the painless or switch pros kits... How did you wire up and aux outlet for any thing? Why I ask is I want to hard wire in an after market back up camera and only want it powered when the Jeep is on. The only thing I could figure out is to splice into the cigarette outlet... I wanted to wire it straight to the fuse box under the hood, only problem is that Chrysler put some sort of circuit board between the wires going out of the fuse box and the fuses. So I can't figure out how. The second picture is an open fuse space that I wanted to use but can't figure out how with the circuit board between the "fuse bay" and the wiring underneath. 20161229_144119.jpg20161229_122454.jpg

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You could just use a fuse tap into anything with an ignition based source.
This is how all of my aux setups are wired, there's a single power wire out from the tap that is spliced into.
You could also use a fuse tap and wire a power block and connect your sources to that.
 
Youre talking about the TIPM, Totally integrated power module.

There is a fuse tap option, its the quickest way to set it up.

But if youre looking for a more OE look. I tapped into the fuse M7 for my auxiliary fuse panel. look towards the end of this post
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?36813-New-Rear-Lighting-Idea

Edit: I see you are pointing to fuse M14, 20A "Trailer Tow (BUX) Rear Camera". I don' think any wrangler came stock with a rear camera, so that fuse will probably go to an empty terminal on one of the many plugs below the TIPM. Just like M7 actually.

So your options are:
splice into an existing circuit (use a relay to limit loads on existing circuitry)
add a new terminal in one of the plugs (follow the above link)
or use a fuse tap (not cool IMO) (Amazon http://a.co/36fSkLg)
 
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Frydaddy said:
Youre talking about the TIPM, Totally integrated power module.

There is a fuse tap option, its the quickest way to set it up.

But if youre looking for a more OE look. I tapped into the fuse M7 for my auxiliary fuse panel. look towards the end of this post http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?36813-New-Rear-Lighting-Idea
Click to expand...

OK that is awesome, i was thinking of doing this first but how/ where do i find those "pins" you are using and does the M7 ACC need to be connected via the fuse OR can i just tap that open spot underneath to pull power and place an inline fuse along the line??
 
Kalums said:
OK that is awesome, i was thinking of doing this first but how/ where do i find those "pins" you are using and does the M7 ACC need to be connected via the fuse OR can i just tap that open spot underneath to pull power and place an inline fuse along the line??
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You might be better off cutting some out from a junkyard. I would cut out a plug, then disassemble it to get to the metal connectors. Make sure you leave a decent "pig-tail"

I had some spare connectors from my Bussman fuse box project. These connectors BARELY fit in the slots with modification (Delphi 12129409 at waytechwire.com) I had to cut some tabs from the back, and carefully smash it with some pliers to fit into the slots.

It seems I was editing my last post when you responded, have another look at that post.

If you end up tapping in from the connector, it will be fused just like the rest of the box, put a fuse in the slot, no Inline fuse.
 
Frydaddy said:
You might be better off cutting some out from a junkyard. I would cut out a plug, then disassemble it to get to the metal connectors. Make sure you leave a decent "pig-tail"

I had some spare connectors from my Bussman fuse box project. These connectors BARELY fit in the slots with modification (Delphi 12129409 at waytechwire.com) I had to cut some tabs from the back, and carefully smash it with some pliers to fit into the slots.

It seems I was editing my last post when you responded, have another look at that post.

If you end up tapping in from the connector, it will be fused just like the rest of the box, put a fuse in the slot, no Inline fuse.
Click to expand...

but what if i want to keep the aux outlet in the center console also?? i was planning on keeping it so i could hard wire in an inverter later on. btw if you can post up a picture of the pin out diagram or send me a pm or picture that would be a HUGE help thx
 
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Kalums said:
but what if i want to keep the aux outlet in the center console also?? i was planning on keeping it so i could hard wire in an inverter later on. btw if you can post up a picture of the pin out diagram or send me a pm or picture that would be a HUGE help thx
Click to expand...

Oh, does that go to M7? sorry, I have a Sport, no fancy stuff here, My M7 was wide open. If you want to avoid that circuit, you will have to "ring out" another open connector, It gets involved, but just follow a procedure. I can explain how to ring out a new one if you wish. (someone should do this some day to free up all these wasted spots)

As for the inverter, be sure your fusing and wiring can handle the load. Take the peak wattage and divide by 12V. My 400W (750W peak) can draw over 60 Amps, That requires at least 4 gauge wire.

To finish the prior question, fuse M7 (which can be constant-on or ACC) leads to connector C6 and pin 12.

TIPMConnectors.jpgTIPMConnectorC6.jpg
 
why not just tap into the reverse lights that way it is powered when you put in reverse. Unless you want to be able to trigger it independently then just tap into a key on power wire like dash cluster or radio.
 
Goldeneagle1LC said:
why not just tap into the reverse lights that way it is powered when you put in reverse. Unless you want to be able to trigger it independently then just tap into a key on power wire like dash cluster or radio.
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It does independently tap in to the reverse lights, so that it comes on when I put it in reverse... However it is also a dashcam /dvr so it needs its own separate power source and I don't want the wire for the USB power cable sticking out of my dash cigarette lighter all the time... Looks messy to me.

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Kalums said:
It does independently tap in to the reverse lights, so that it comes on when I put it in reverse... However it is also a dashcam /dvr so it needs its own separate power source and I don't want the wire for the USB power cable sticking out of my dash cigarette lighter all the time... Looks messy to me.

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Click to expand...

I guess i got too ambitious with my project. If all you plan on doing is installing the dashcam, T-tapping into the left cigarette outlet will work just fine, Thats how mine is wired actually. The reverse signal will have no effect on the jeeps wiring, so a T-Tap for it will work good as well.
 
Just tap into the cigarette lighter power and install a new one behind the dash. super simple to wire up and then it just plug and play
 
Ok so I wired it in to the cigarette lighter (straight wired the pos to pos and neg to neg) but now I've lost half the stations on my radio... And when I unplug it they come back...??? WTH so.. Do I need a different ground or do I just find a different supply all together?

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Kalums said:
Ok so I wired it in to the cigarette lighter (straight wired the pos to pos and neg to neg) but now I've lost half the stations on my radio... And when I unplug it they come back...??? WTH so.. Do I need a different ground or do I just find a different supply all together?

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It's likely RFI. I'm guessing one of the wires isn't shielded and the new power wire is too close to your antenna cable or radio speaker signal wires. While you're still experiencing the symptom, try wiggling the power wire or moving it far away just to see what it does. Or do the same with the antenna cable if you can get to it. If that doesn't work, maybe try a different circuit under the hood temporarily or a different ground. My LED light bar does the same thing, but I haven't diagnosed why yet.
 
WJCO said:
It's likely RFI. I'm guessing one of the wires isn't shielded and the new power wire is too close to your antenna cable or radio speaker signal wires. While you're still experiencing the symptom, try wiggling the power wire or moving it far away just to see what it does. Or do the same with the antenna cable if you can get to it. If that doesn't work, maybe try a different circuit under the hood temporarily or a different ground. My LED light bar does the same thing, but I haven't diagnosed why yet.
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The RFI likely comes from the DVR voltage regulator itself. There's not enough power coming through the lines to cause any inductive cross-talk. It comes about when a company is too cheap to put filtering capacitors in their power supplies. Don't feel bad though, even fancy companies do this too.

The proper fix is to add some filtering capacitors between positive to ground, but to pick the right one is tricky. I would guess something around 1000 uF, and at least 18V. This should filter out the high frequency kick from the DVR regulator.

Like WJCO said, try another circuit temporarily, to see if that circuit has better filtering.

Edit: WJCO, you should try this too. If 1000uF doesn't work, try something bigger, like 4700uF. It has helped me filter out alternator whine from my 2-meter ham radio. Could also work with CBs.
 
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Frydaddy said:
The RFI likely comes from the DVR voltage regulator itself. There's not enough power coming through the lines to cause any inductive cross-talk. It comes about when a company is too cheap to put filtering capacitors in their power supplies. Don't feel bad though, even fancy companies do this too.

The proper fix is to add some filtering capacitors between positive to ground, but to pick the right one is tricky. I would guess something around 1000 uF, and at least 18V. This should filter out the high frequency kick from the DVR regulator.

Like WJCO said, try another circuit temporarily, to see if that circuit has better filtering.

Edit: WJCO, you should try this too. If 1000uF doesn't work, try something bigger, like 4700uF. It has helped me filter out alternator whine from my 2-meter ham radio. Could also work with CBs.
Click to expand...
The guy at frys electronics said I should use ferrite core noise suppressors? What are they and will they work?

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Kalums said:
The guy at frys electronics said I should use ferrite core noise suppressors? What are they and will they work?

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Ferrite cores help with inductive kickback. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductor I didn't want to mention it, but that is the second half of the equation for dealing with any spurious frequencies. Most of the time, a capacitor is good enough for random noise, or static.

The proper way to deal with line noise is to create a low pass filter https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter, which uses a precise combination of capacitor and inductor, to cut out all frequencies above a certain threshold. The math gets ugly real quick, so thats why i tried to ignore it.

The easy way to deal with it is to do one or the other. The guy has a valid point and it is worth trying out. If it works, tell us how it went. Sometimes you wrap the DVR power cable a few times through the ferrite core to get more suppression.

If anyone is curious how to create a low pass filter for a vehicle, this guy shows how to make one. It helped cut out the alternator whine in his Ham radio. http://www.sanantoniohams.org/tips/whine.htm
 
So ordered some ferrite core suppressors on Amazon... Worked ok. Decided to reinvent the wheel.. Went to the ham radio website you mentioned. Went back to Amazon bought the biggest Ferrite toroid I could find wrapped all the extra power cord for the DVR around the toroid (approx 30 times) plugged it all back in... Ide say I got the reception 95 % back to "normal" much better than it was.

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