Winch line? Synthetic replacement

DWiggles

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
Ok, so I've had my warn for a little over a year now and I want to switch over to synthetic line. The powerplant came with 80ft of 3/8" steel cable. I am thinking I want to upgrade to 100 ft while I'm at it, does anyone know if 100 ft of synthetic will fit the spool on a Powerplant 12? What about 125 ft?

I have also stumbled across replacement rollers for synthetic line on a roller fairlead. But can't seem to find any other than daystar... anyone run this? Or know something better? I think I'm going to stick with the roller fairlead because I like the way it looks, and it's saved my ass more than once already. Long story short, had I had a hawsee on the front, things wouldn't have worked out so well for me...

http://m.quadratec.com/products/product.php?pgid=92118+900X

I am looking mainly at AMSTEEL 17,600lb line with a safety thimble (one you can fit a shackle through) but open to suggestions. What's everyone running? I can't seem to find the "safety thimble" option on any site other than quadratec...

http://m.quadratec.com/products/product.php?pgid=92124+421X
 
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Nothin wrong with the Daystar rollers. Daystar makes some great stuff and I will get there rollers when I swap to synthetic line.

The 100' will fit as well.
 
cozdude said:
Nothin wrong with the Daystar rollers. Daystar makes some great stuff and I will get there rollers when I swap to synthetic line.

The 100' will fit as well.
Click to expand...

Nice, I just never heard of synthetic rollers before and wasn't sure. I'll keep that on the list when purchasing! Thanks Coz
 
I emailed Warn with this question and i just got a response today. Here is what they told me.

"On the 12k winch you would need to go with the Spydura Pro P/N 93120. Unfortunately with that particular winch you are limited to about 80ft of rope because of clearance issues.

I would recommend carrying a tree saver and an extension with you to help with situations where the 80ft will not be enough. You can attach the extension to the tree strap then using a shackle attach the snatch block to the other end if needed."
 
AlStew said:
I emailed Warn with this question and i just got a response today. Here is what they told me.

"On the 12k winch you would need to go with the Spydura Pro P/N 93120. Unfortunately with that particular winch you are limited to about 80ft of rope because of clearance issues.

I would recommend carrying a tree saver and an extension with you to help with situations where the 80ft will not be enough. You can attach the extension to the tree strap then using a shackle attach the snatch block to the other end if needed."
Click to expand...

Of course warn will say you NEED to go with warn line... haha
 
I recently replaced mine on a Warn Xeon... I went with Engo, and got their 85ft, 16k rated 3/8 line. For less than $175 retail it seemed like a very reasonable price for a wear item made in the USA. The only challenge I had going non-warn was that the Xeon uses that in-drum capture "puck" that slings into the other end of the line. Not sure if the PowerPlant is the same way but it's something to think about. The Engo came with a pressed plate on the end that I had to drill out and sling a new eye for the warn puck, but it wasn't too much trouble.
 
iRonin said:
I recently replaced mine on a Warn Xeon... I went with Engo, and got their 85ft, 16k rated 3/8 line. For less than $175 retail it seemed like a very reasonable price for a wear item made in the USA. The only challenge I had going non-warn was that the Xeon uses that in-drum capture "puck" that slings into the other end of the line. Not sure if the PowerPlant is the same way but it's something to think about. The Engo came with a pressed plate on the end that I had to drill out and sling a new eye for the warn puck, but it wasn't too much trouble.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at the same thing with a zeon. How did you create a new eye. I've been looking on the interwebs.

As for lines I'll be pulling the trig on a Viking or masterpull. Only difference really, from a novice view, is it appears the master pulls have a "heat shield" wrap type deal on the line that would wrap around the drum for the first row or so. Not sure how big a difference that is.
 
JAGS said:
I'm looking at the same thing with a zeon. How did you create a new eye. I've been looking on the interwebs.

As for lines I'll be pulling the trig on a Viking or masterpull. Only difference really, from a novice view, is it appears the master pulls have a "heat shield" wrap type deal on the line that would wrap around the drum for the first row or so. Not sure how big a difference that is.
Click to expand...

I don't know the exact answer to your question, but when you do it, don't over think it. Where the line attaches to the winch is NOT the holding point of the force. The first 5-7 wraps around your winch drum is what holds the weight during a recovery. As long as your rope anchor point won't interfere with rubbing/cutting the rope, you'll be good.
 
JAGS said:
I'm looking at the same thing with a zeon. How did you create a new eye. I've been looking on the interwebs.

As for lines I'll be pulling the trig on a Viking or masterpull. Only difference really, from a novice view, is it appears the master pulls have a "heat shield" wrap type deal on the line that would wrap around the drum for the first row or so. Not sure how big a difference that is.
Click to expand...

You can splice an eye into the line.
 
cozdude said:
Nothin wrong with the Daystar rollers. Daystar makes some great stuff and I will get there rollers when I swap to synthetic line.

The 100' will fit as well.
Click to expand...

For whatever it's worth, so long as your rollers aren't chewed up and damaged from steel rope, there's nothing wrong with just using it as is with synth rope. That being said, if they are chewed up, the Daystar rollers are a great alternative.

JAGS said:
I'm looking at the same thing with a zeon. How did you create a new eye. I've been looking on the interwebs.

As for lines I'll be pulling the trig on a Viking or masterpull. Only difference really, from a novice view, is it appears the master pulls have a "heat shield" wrap type deal on the line that would wrap around the drum for the first row or so. Not sure how big a difference that is.
Click to expand...

Winch drums can get very hot and to the point where it will melt a synthetic line - some sooner than others. Masterpull uses the kind of rope ships use and each fiber is like dental floss. Really strong stuff but it tends to have a lower melting point and that's why they have the heat shield wrap.
 
JAGS said:
I'm looking at the same thing with a zeon. How did you create a new eye. I've been looking on the interwebs.
Click to expand...
I mostly followed this basic process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q22wgYZL9f0

I say mostly because I didn't do a full bury, nor did I do the secondary "lock" he does with the yellow line. At first I thought I might get away with drilling out the end-plate that came with the Engo and exposing a premade eye, but the plate was sandwiched in with the line pretty good and by the time I was done hacking it free whatever eye there might have been, gave up the ghost so I just docked the end off completely.

So I just cut the end strands to a taper like he shows in the vid, taped the end, then ran it through the drum, looped it for the puck, and buried it only 1-2" max into itself. Running it through the drum before you make the eye is much easier to manage... even with my original warn line it was a PITA to try to yank the damn thing through looped.

WJCO said:
I don't know the exact answer to your question, but when you do it, don't over think it. Where the line attaches to the winch is NOT the holding point of the force. The first 5-7 wraps around your winch drum is what holds the weight during a recovery. As long as your rope anchor point won't interfere with rubbing/cutting the rope, you'll be good.
Click to expand...

Bingo, this is exactly why I didn't do a full spec splice. You're really never supposed to let out so much line that you start to encroach on the load wraps; the whole puck thing is just a fixed point so you can spool the line cleanly under a bit of load.
 
wayoflife said:
Winch drums can get very hot and to the point where it will melt a synthetic line - some sooner than others. Masterpull uses the kind of rope ships use and each fiber is like dental floss. Really strong stuff but it tends to have a lower melting point and that's why they have the heat shield wrap.
Click to expand...

So for close to the same price...Classic Rope Master Pull vs Viking... you still go Viking line? MP second tier line line is about $150-175 more and the XD line is just crazy.

iRonin said:
I mostly followed this basic process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q22wgYZL9f0

I say mostly because I didn't do a full bury, nor did I do the secondary "lock" he does with the yellow line. At first I thought I might get away with drilling out the end-plate that came with the Engo and exposing a premade eye, but the plate was sandwiched in with the line pretty good and by the time I was done hacking it free whatever eye there might have been, gave up the ghost so I just docked the end off completely.

So I just cut the end strands to a taper like he shows in the vid, taped the end, then ran it through the drum, looped it for the puck, and buried it only 1-2" max into itself. Running it through the drum before you make the eye is much easier to manage... even with my original warn line it was a PITA to try to yank the damn thing through looped.

Bingo, this is exactly why I didn't do a full spec splice. You're really never supposed to let out so much line that you start to encroach on the load wraps; the whole puck thing is just a fixed point so you can spool the line cleanly under a bit of load.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I've seen a few vids with a couple options on this as I do research. Seems the only line to come with an eye at the end is WARN. :crazyeyes:
 
wayoflife said:
For whatever it's worth, so long as your rollers aren't chewed up and damaged from steel rope, there's nothing wrong with just using it as is with synth rope. That being said, if they are chewed up, the Daystar rollers are a great alternative.
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Yea mine is chewed up from my rusted steel cable lol gotta love the east coast living.
 
A guy in our local group went out and got one and is tickled with it. I had my hands on it in the store and it seemed to be a quality piece. If they offered it in 125 ft i would use it without question
 
holliewood61 said:
Here's another alternative. I seen this at tractor supply recently.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...-5-in-x-82-ft-15-000-lb-capacity?cm_vc=-10005
Click to expand...

Well damn! That really is a great price. Seeing as how it's got a 2/5" (0.4") thickness and an 82' length, it's clearly a metric rope (most likely made in China) but if it works, it'd be a hell of a deal. I just might have to stop in at my local Tractor Supply store and give it a look just for kicks and giggles.
 
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