Which Driveshaft?

wilyuhm

wilyuhm

Member
I am looking at replacing my stock driveshafts, but I am not sure which one to get. Someone mentioned to me about getting Adams and yet another person mentioned to me about how good JE Reels are. Which driveshaft should I get?

I have a 2011 JKUR with a 2.5" Rock Krawler lift, running 35" tires, with stock axles. Am looking at going to upgrade the driveshafts to 1350.
 
Maybe just the front. I've always heard 1350's for 37" tires. You should be fine with the 1310's, or just wait until you tear your boot. Also, with a 2011 you may be able to do fine with the stock drive lines.
 
swampdog said:
Not sure you would need to upgrade the driveshaft at all with that setup.
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Clutch1981 said:
Maybe just the front. I've always heard 1350's for 37" tires. You should be fine with the 1310's, or just wait until you tear your boot. Also, with a 2011 you may be able to do fine with the stock drive lines.
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This is good to know. I will do some looking underneath and see if the boot is still in tact. I just assumed that with 125k miles on it, that it might be time do swap them out. I do plan on going up to 37" tires, but not until I run down the tires I have on there now. Thanks for your help.
 
wilyuhm said:
This is good to know. I will do some looking underneath and see if the boot is still in tact. I just assumed that with 125k miles on it, that it might be time do swap them out. I do plan on going up to 37" tires, but not until I run down the tires I have on there now. Thanks for your help.
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Wait until you jump to 37's or more lift for driveshafts if they are currently working fine.
 
If you're set on keeping only a 2.5" lift, Tatton makes a replacement rzeppa just like stock but beefier, and cheap. He'd probably even put the new Teraflex high angle rzeppa on it for you if you wanted that.
 
I would cycle your suspension and see if you even have an issue. If not, cool. Run the factory one. If you do, je reel, adams and coast should be what you look at
 
If you have the money and want the added reassurance, then I would look at Coast and JE Reel. I have the JE Reel in the front and the Coast 1310 in the rear, no problems after 25k miles. Coast does not have greasable u-joints, but the JE Reel does.

However, I was reading a post by Eddie yesterday where he mentioned that the the 1310 is actually weaker than the stock driveshaft. His post mentioned that the stock drive shaft u-joints are equivalent to a 1330, so a 1350 is recommended for 35 and 37 tires. http://wayalife.com/archive/index.php/t-11914.html
 
I went with Adams front 1310 with non greasable Spicer's, (supposed to be stronger since they are solid)
Super easy to do but you need a impact to make it easy and a torque wrench that goes to 150+ ft lbs

I have a 3.5" rk lift and 37s. I destroyed that small CV boot at the transfer case after a trip to SMORR. It was throwing grease up on my heatshield. $429 shipped to my door from Northridge. I read competition guys do 1310 just so they will break the joint before anything else that is more expensive. I will do a 1350 in the rear some day
 
Jeeptang said:
I went with Adams front 1310 with non greasable Spicer's, (supposed to be stronger since they are solid)
Super easy to do but you need a impact to make it easy and a torque wrench that goes to 150+ ft lbs

I have a 3.5" rk lift and 37s. I destroyed that small CV boot at the transfer case after a trip to SMORR. It was throwing grease up on my heatshield. $429 shipped to my door from Northridge. I read competition guys do 1310 just so they will break the joint before anything else that is more expensive. I will do a 1350 in the rear some day
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With that logic, why not go with 1310 in the rear also?
 
Jeeptang said:
I went with Adams front 1310 with non greasable Spicer's, (supposed to be stronger since they are solid)
Super easy to do but you need a impact to make it easy and a torque wrench that goes to 150+ ft lbs

I have a 3.5" rk lift and 37s. I destroyed that small CV boot at the transfer case after a trip to SMORR. It was throwing grease up on my heatshield. $429 shipped to my door from Northridge. I read competition guys do 1310 just so they will break the joint before anything else that is more expensive. I will do a 1350 in the rear some day
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LOL! If it was on the Internet, it must be true.

Slimebones said:
With that logic, why not go with 1310 in the rear also?
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LOL! Right?!
 
Jeeptang said:
I went with Adams front 1310 with non greasable Spicer's, (supposed to be stronger since they are solid)
Super easy to do but you need a impact to make it easy and a torque wrench that goes to 150+ ft lbs

I have a 3.5" rk lift and 37s. I destroyed that small CV boot at the transfer case after a trip to SMORR. It was throwing grease up on my heatshield. $429 shipped to my door from Northridge. I read competition guys do 1310 just so they will break the joint before anything else that is more expensive. I will do a 1350 in the rear some day
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Competition guys love changing driveshafts during a race so they can save money on repairs. At least that's what I hear.
 
ttfhell said:
Competition guys love changing driveshafts during a race so they can save money on repairs. At least that's what I hear.
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It's even better when you have to lay on boulders while changing them out. #newyogapose #downwardfacingdriveshaft :cheesy:

BrokenUjoint.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info. I just got done looking over the front drive shaft and found that the boot is torn at the transfer case. So it does look like I will be replacing it.
 
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