Wheel nuts not pulling through new rear axle shaft

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IronWorker18

New member
Hey all,

Just did an axel swap of the rear driver on my 08 rubi jku. Went with Yukon and pressed everything together myself.
I did it using the wayalife install and removal write up which helped tons. I bought a cheap press to do the abs ring and bearing collor and was having too much of a pain in the ass to try to press the wheel lugs in with my press . I figured I would just pull them through using metal wheel studs with no Cap on the end + old rotor.
They aren't pulling in tight and I'm starting to strip the lug nut. I'm now using a tap and die set to get the threads back
Ok.

Where did I go wrong?
 
IronWorker18 said:
Hey all,

Just did an axel swap of the rear driver on my 08 rubi jku. Went with Yukon and pressed everything together myself.
I did it using the wayalife install and removal write up which helped tons. I bought a cheap press to do the abs ring and bearing collor and was having too much of a pain in the ass to try to press the wheel lugs in with my press . I figured I would just pull them through using metal wheel studs with no Cap on the end + old rotor.
They aren't pulling in tight and I'm starting to strip the lug nut. I'm now using a tap and die set to get the threads back
Ok.

Where did I go wrong?
Click to expand...

Yukon axle shafts for a JK Rubicon? I didn't think Yukon made rear axle shafts for the Rubicon

could be the studs are the wrong size?

Lisle makes a wheel stud installer that makes the job easier, look up Lisle 22800
 
jeeeep said:
Yukon axle shafts for a JK Rubicon? I didn't think Yukon made rear axle shafts for the Rubicon

could be the studs are the wrong size?

Lisle makes a wheel stud installer that makes the job easier, look up Lisle 22800
Click to expand...

Its a 32 spline which only the rubicon has from what I gather and on the rubi both shafts are different so Yukon must make them bc i ordered them for my rubi. The wheel nuts are almost all the way in but still have 1/8 to 1/16 to go but I don't want to risk stripping more lugs. IMG_1523.jpgIMG_1523.jpgIMG_1523.jpg
 
I don't think you're gonna be able to draw up those studs flush by tightening the lug nuts. Those nuts will strip out before they're flush as you've found out. Maybe if they were grade 8 nuts or something but then you're putting a ton of stress on those studs and then you risk over-stressing them.. Only way to do it right is to press them in.
 
I have used washers and a nut installing pressed in studs. Usually have pretty good luck doing that. On a side note I seem to have problems with my front studs, I have had to replace 3 wheel studs for some reason ever since I installed aftermarket wheels, which was like three years ago. I also check the tightness of the lug nuts after rotating, I normally check around 150 miles, 500 miles, and around 1000 miles.

Been thinking of looking at installing ARP studs, has anyone done that?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I've had luck putting a large nut over the stud first and use it like a washer. Like a nut that is a half inch thick that just slides over the threads on the stud. Then tighten your wheel lug nut against that.

In this pic below, you see the nut against the rotor, that is not the lug nut, it's just a large nut you find around the shop. The actual lug nut is inside the socket tightening against that random nut.

PDR_0018 (Large).jpg
 
WJCO said:
I've had luck putting a large nut over the stud first and use it like a washer. Like a nut that is a half inch thick that just slides over the threads on the stud. Then tighten your wheel lug nut against that.

In this pic below, you see the nut against the rotor, that is not the lug nut, it's just a large nut you find around the shop. The actual lug nut is inside the socket tightening against that random nut.

View attachment 250021
Click to expand...

Tried to do a the same, it's how I slightly stripped the lug.,

My question now Is, is it safe for my wife and kid to be in the vehicka?
Will they eventually pull through by doing frequent re-torques ???

Should I pull the axel back out of the housing and try to rig up a way to press them studs in the axel
Flange?
Will the race stay in the housing?? I installed it last week.
I left for work out of town and the wife was complaining about noise at the back so when
I got back in last I took tire off to adjust E-Brake and lubed it up with penetration oil/ Rusy catalyst

That's when I noticed the lugs.
 
I bought revolution shafts and they just threaded in. It may be the best to pull the shafts and take them to a local shop and have them pressed in. My local NAPA has the ability to do that type of work and if I had do guess probably for $20 a shaft.

Sent from my 831C using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You need to stop driving the Jeep and fix that or you risk loosing a wheel! Pull the shaft and press them in properly!
 
It would have been best to install the studs before you installed the axle shaft. Then like Overlander said you can just pound them in with a hammer. I have installed plenty of them with the bigger nut or washers trick and just pulled them in with a lug nut also. Chances are you were somehow catching one the shoulder just bellow the threads and that is why it started to strip threads. Whatever you do don't drive it like it is or you will probably have a loose wheel and damage more stuff. If it is stripped you should get a new one and start over.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jesse3638 said:
I bought revolution shafts and they just threaded in. It may be the best to pull the shafts and take them to a local shop and have them pressed in. My local NAPA has the ability to do that type of work and if I had do guess probably for $20 a shaft.

Sent from my 831C using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Will the bearing race stay in the housing after just a week? I have a cheap press but it was a pain in the ass trying.
Every time I've changed a stud I pulled it through with the lug nut so I figured this would be the same.
 
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