What's the diff D44-PR44-PR44/60hybrid-PR60

JAGS

JAGS

Hooked
Hey eddie or others with high level knowledge. Would you mind sharing a bit on the differences between these axles in terms of capabilities and when/why you would want or need one over the other. There's a current thread on the 60 and some info here and there on the PR44, but nothing to kind of explain in a cliff note yet educational fashion.

All I know is my 12' Rubi has D44 and they "can be" reinforced a bit. I'm also a noob, so speak in noobish tongue. :crazyeyes:
 
Well, eventually hoping to go 37s and get skilled enough to consistently do moderate/heavy trails and crawling like on JKX etc. :crazyeyes:

Still stock at the moment as this is my first jeep and more just asking for general knowledge. Lots of confusing info out there so kind of hoping for "this axle = this, this this." Some people to try to push the limits and run 40s on d30s or D44s and get blown up on the forums. Yet others will chime in and say this, that the other is "just fine."

So as a noob, I'm just curious as the various axles compared and rated and commented on in simple form in one thread. Not just "my uncle" runs his this way. And yes, I think for most of us budget is a consideration or we'd all be running the new PR80s.
 
A pr44 has an increased pinion angle built in, stronger knuckles, thicker axle tubes than stock and increased ground clearance from stock.

A pr44/60 has a dana 44 pumpkin (same as the pr44) and same axle tubes as a pr44 but has upgraded hubs, spindles, brakes and axles.

A pr60 has a larger diameter but thinner walled axle tube, and really just EVERY axle component is improved. Now when i said the wall was thinner in the pr 60, i want u to understand that that has nothing to do with the strength. A steel tube not only gains its strength through its thickness but also as important is its diameter.
 
JAGS said:
Hey eddie or others with high level knowledge. Would you mind sharing a bit on the differences between these axles in terms of capabilities and when/why you would want or need one over the other. There's a current thread on the 60 and some info here and there on the PR44, but nothing to kind of explain in a cliff note yet educational fashion.

All I know is my 12' Rubi has D44 and they "can be" reinforced a bit. I'm also a noob, so speak in noobish tongue. :crazyeyes:
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Factory Rubicon Dana 44
What you get on your Rubicon from the factory is a Dana 44 differential assembled with Dana 30 tubes, end forgings and knuckles. Being a Dana 44, you will get an 8.5" ring gear which is bigger than what you would get in a Dana 30 (only 7.125") and you will get beefier shafts/u-joints and more splines.

Dynatrac ProRock 44
Like a regular Dana 44, it is made for an 8.5" ring gear but, it is made with a much stronger housing with significantly greater clearance. I will also come with much thicker tubes, much beefier end forgings and much thicker and reinforced brackets. The Unlimited version comes with even thicker tubes, offset shock mounts and 6° of positive caster built into it.

Dynatrac ProRock 44/60 Hybrid
This is essentially a ProRock 44 Unlimited with 60 end forgings/knuckles. This will give you the outstanding ground clearnace of a ProRock 44 but, give you strength at the outters of a 60 and with locking hubs.

Dynatrac ProRock 60
This is about as good as it gets. Like a regular Dana 60, you get run a large 9.75" ring gear, in a super beefy housing attached to super beefy tubes and end forgings/knuckles only, you also get about the same amount of ground clearance as a factory Dana 44. With this housing, you get to run really strong axle shafts with more splines and really big U-joints and locking hubs. Of course, all this comes at a steep price but, it's worth every penny.

Hope that helps :yup:
 
StrizzyChris said:
A pr44 has an increased pinion angle built in, stronger knuckles, thicker axle tubes than stock and increased ground clearance from stock.
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Actually, I believe only the Unlimited comes with the increase in pinion built into it. Also, only the end forgings are stronger, the knuckles are still factory.

A pr44/60 has a dana 44 pumpkin (same as the pr44) and same axle tubes as a pr44 but has upgraded hubs, spindles, brakes and axles.
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The end forgings are 60's as well as the knuckles and only the stub shafts are 60's.

A pr60 has a larger diameter but thinner walled axle tube, and really just EVERY axle component is improved. Now when i said the wall was thinner in the pr 60, i want u to understand that that has nothing to do with the strength. A steel tube not only gains its strength through its thickness but also as important is its diameter.
Click to expand...

Not exactly. A standard ProRock 44 comes with 5/16th” wall DOM housing tube, the Unlimited comes with 1/2" wall DOM housing tube and the ProRock 60 comes with 1/2” wall DOM housing tubes as well. I think you might be thinking about the ProRock 80 as it does have slightly thinner tubes but a larger cross section. :yup:
 
wayoflife said:
Factory Rubicon Dana 44
What you get on your Rubicon ........

Dynatrac ProRock 44
Like a regular Dana 44, it is made for ........

Dynatrac ProRock 44/60 Hybrid
This is essentially a ProRock 44 Unlimited with 60 ........

Dynatrac ProRock 60
This is about as good as it gets. Like a regular Dana 60, you get .......

Hope that helps :yup:
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:yup: :clap2:I somehow knew you would not fail me. This also helps to explain weak points up the ladder. Even a beefed up stock 44 has a few weak points to a PR44, etc, etc.

Can you run the hybrid as a rear axle or only as front? Never knew about the 44/60 till I just saw the build specs on Vengeance. That's kind of what got this whole question brewing in my head.

Thanks much for taking the time to address the noob question. :thumb: Maybe it will help others just learning things too.
 
JAGS said:
:yup: :clap2:I somehow knew you would not fail me. This also helps to explain weak points up the ladder. Even a beefed up stock 44 has a few weak points to a PR44, etc, etc.

Can you run the hybrid as a rear axle or only as front? Never knew about the 44/60 till I just saw the build specs on Vengeance. That's kind of what got this whole question brewing in my head.

Thanks much for taking the time to address the noob question. :thumb: Maybe it will help others just learning things too.
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It's just a front axle thing. You just want a 60 in the rear.
 
JaySC said:
Hi Eddie, do you think a 44/60 would be strong enough to run 40" tires?
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What I can tell you is that's what VENGEANCE is running and ran 40's both on the Ultimate Adventure and the JK-Experience. I personally would prefer a Pro Rock 60 but, if up travel clearance is an issue as it was for VENGEANCE and it's front stretch, the 44/60 hybrid is the way to go.
 
wayoflife said:
It's just a front axle thing. You just want a 60 in the rear.
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At more than twice the coin, I think I may more realistically save up for PR44s front and rear. Not going bigger than 37s. Lift, wheels, tires and just gusset stock 44s first round of major mods. Then save more and pray I make it to PR44s without breaking anything first. :brows:

Hoping this plan works at least. :idontknow:
 
wayoflife said:
What I can tell you is that's what VENGEANCE is running and ran 40's both on the Ultimate Adventure and the JK-Experience. I personally would prefer a Pro Rock 60 but, if up travel clearance is an issue as it was for VENGEANCE and it's front stretch, the 44/60 hybrid is the way to go.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the help. :cool:
 
JAGS said:
At more than twice the coin, I think I may more realistically save up for PR44s front and rear. Not going bigger than 37s. Lift, wheels, tires and just gusset stock 44s first round of major mods. Then save more and pray I make it to PR44s without breaking anything first. :brows:

Hoping this plan works at least. :idontknow:
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Just so it's clear, there's only a PR44 for the front. The rear factory 44 is a true 44 and can hold up pretty well for a while. The only real upgrade you'll want to do there is a PR60.
 
wayoflife said:
Just so it's clear, there's only a PR44 for the front. The rear factory 44 is a true 44 and can hold up pretty well for a while. The only real upgrade you'll want to do there is a PR60.
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:cheesy: What a noob I am. :doh:

So, stupid question, but would you run a PR44 front and PR60 rear or 60/60?
 
JAGS said:
:cheesy: What a noob I am. :doh:

So, stupid question, but would you run a PR44 front and PR60 rear or 60/60?
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For 37's, I would upgrade to a PR44 and just run the factory rear 44 until it breaks, bends to the point where it needs to be replaced or I've got enough saved to get a PR60. If you were hoping to run 40's, PR60 front and rear all the way.
 
wayoflife said:
Not exactly. A standard ProRock 44 comes with 5/16th” wall DOM housing tube, the Unlimited comes with 1/2" wall DOM housing tube and the ProRock 60 comes with 1/2” wall DOM housing tubes as well. I think you might be thinking about the ProRock 80 as it does have slightly thinner tubes but a larger cross section. :yup:
Click to expand...

Ah ur right...I was thinking of the 80 when I was referencing the thinner tube wall. That's what i get for not looking it up before speaking and going off memory! :doh:
 
wayoflife said:
For 37's, I would upgrade to a PR44 and just run the factory rear 44 until it breaks, bends to the point where it needs to be replaced or I've got enough saved to get a PR60. If you were hoping to run 40's, PR60 front and rear all the way.
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37s will be the way for at least 4-5 years.

On Rubicat you running a beefed up D44 front or you have a PR up there? I saw that ur saving for a 60 rear.
 
JAGS said:
37s will be the way for at least 4-5 years.

On Rubicat you running a beefed up D44 front or you have a PR up there? I saw that ur saving for a 60 rear.
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We are just running a factory D44 with C-gussets installed. We've already busted a driver side factory shaft (typical) and replaced that with a chromo shaft with full circle clips. Aside from that, it's all stock. I can pretty much do a rear 60 now but, still saving up for a front - that way I can just regear once.
 
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