What do i need to do it right?

nbunga

nbunga

Caught the Bug
Ok, so I've had my JK since last may. Its an 08 manual 2dr. Other than a winch and some stickers I haven't really done anything to it. Right now it has a terrorflex budget boost with stock shocks on 35" BFG All-Terrains. I recently got some 3" BDS Coil springs from another member on here. My question is, other than shocks what should I buy to do the lift right the first time.

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If you end up getting 3.5 inches or more of lift height, a drag link flip kit would be helpful to correct your steering angles. You should also add some bump stop extensions.
 
WJCO said:
If you end up getting 3.5 inches or more of lift height, a drag link flip kit would be helpful to correct your steering angles. You should also add some bump stop extensions.
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Is the drag link flip something that is critical, or can it be done shortly after the coils when I find out how much actual lift they gave me?

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nbunga said:
Ok, so I've had my JK since last may. Its an 08 manual 2dr. Other than a winch and some stickers I haven't really done anything to it. Right now it has a terrorflex budget boost with stock shocks on 35" BFG All-Terrains. I recently got some 3" BDS Coil springs from another member on here. My question is, other than shocks what should I buy to do the lift right the first time.

Sent from my LG-V410 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

3" BDS coils, You will obviously need some shocks,

Johnny Joint control arms (if you want to do it right the first time, front lowers and rear uppers) Look at Currie, Evo, Synergy, etc.

Being that you are in a 2 door, you will need to change out both drivelines sooner or later. Might aswell go with 1350 drive lines. Coast, JE-REEL, or some other seem to be on par quality wise.

And probably a high steer kit. (evo's drag link flip kit is affordable and gets the job done.)

Then you should only need a rear track bar bracket for the rear axle to run the factory track bar, the front will come with the high steer kit,

Most likely some longer brakelines and swaybar links, Bumpstops... but that should pretty much cover it. :beer:
 
nbunga said:
Is the drag link flip something that is critical, or can it be done shortly after the coils when I find out how much actual lift they gave me?

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Click to expand...

You'll be able to drive it fine, it's not a must have right away. But you'll probably notice a little bump steer.
 
WJCO said:
You'll be able to drive it fine, it's not a must have right away. But you'll probably notice a little bump steer.
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Probably wouldn't hurt to just do from the beginning though? Sounds like on a 2dr with these springs ill have over 3" when all is said and done.

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Right away i would buy some adjustable control arms to correct your caster. Your steering wheel will feel flightly after the lift. Your driveshafts wont last long at this angle either.

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Would building my own adjustable control arms be worth it. Making them wouldn't be a problem for me, but would it be cost effective after buying the Johnny joints separately?

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nbunga said:
Would building my own adjustable control arms be worth it. Making them wouldn't be a problem for me, but would it be cost effective after buying the Johnny joints separately?

Sent from my LG-V410 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Aren't johnny joints $50 each? Good arms are around $400, i would just buy a set (evo or currie).

I put my old rock krawler 2.5" springs on my sister's 2 dr JK that is very light (soft top, no armor) and got 4" of lift. Rear driveshaft is max angle already, so plan for driveshafts. We did do the EVO drag link flip and currie front lower arms. It drove well even before the alignment.
 
zimm said:
Aren't johnny joints $50 each? Good arms are around $400, i would just buy a set (evo or currie).
Click to expand...

That's true. $50 for the joints then probably 15 for a threaded insert and jam nuts. Then my frustration when I mess one up. Might as well just buy them.
 
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